Page 198 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Krakow

196  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Cafés and Bars The butchers’ stalls in the centre
of plac Nowy in Kazimierz serve
Krakow’s cafés are an important part of everyday life and are Polish favourites until after dark:
often institutions in their own right. It would be unthinkable some of the best sausages in
to deny a Krakovian his or her daily 15 minutes or so spent the city are grilled here, and
chatting with a friend or reading a newspaper in a café. The the zapiekanki or pierogi make zapiekanki or pierogi make zapiekanki
majority of cafés have regular customers, who come year in, great stomach fillers pre­ or
post­drinks.
year out to their chosen place, every day except at weekends.
Bars
Cafés in the cafés that surround the Again, Krakow’s huge student
Due to Krakow’s Habsburg old university buildings. These population ensures that there
heritage, a strong café tradition include Nowa Prowincja, with are all manner of bars catering
prevails across the city. Situated its legendary hot chocolate – for every possible taste. The
in the heart of the Old Quarter, hot chocolate fans should also main drinking areas are the
Kawiarnia Noworolski is one of head for Pijalnia Czekolada Old Quarter and the former
the longest established cafés – Wedel in the Old Quarter. Jewish district of Kazimierz,
it dates back to the end of the A particular Krakow speciality where many bars stay open
19th century. Housed in the is the bookshop café, where until the early hours and have
Cloth Hall, with its entrance tables and chairs are spread a pronounced bohemian edge.
facing the Mickiewicz among the bookshelves. In Kazimierz, the streets
Monument, its interior is Massolit is a warren of rooms surrounding the lively plac
modelled on the cafés of filled with books and nooks, Nowy have a wide variety of
Vienna. A visit to Jama perfect for browsing and drinking spots, including vodka
Michalika (see p116), renowned relaxing with a book and slice bars, craft beer, multi­tap joints
for the Zielony Balonik (Green of cake. Kawiarnia Literacka, and some that epitomise the
Balloon) Cabaret, is a must. Bona and De Revolutionibus alternative, bohemian vibe
Elsewhere in the city there are also outstandingly relaxing that prevails around the area.
is a wealth of modern inter­ examples of the genre. Among the “classically Kazimierz”
nationalized coffee chains, with The art of cake­ and dessert­ bars, featuring rickety furniture,
espressos, cappuccinos and making remains strong and lace tablecloths and candle­
lattes on the menu. For a bit there are some gorgeous light, is Singer (the original
more character, visitors should examples at patisseries such Kazimierz bar that started the
seek out the quirky cafés as Slodki Wentzl. Look out for trend). Several tables here have
frequented by locals, which apple cake (szarlotka), a Krakow old Singer sewing machines
often provide speciality coffees favourite. Tasty canapés served affixed to them, lending the
and a home­cooked selection on bread from the highlands place a unique charm. By day,
of snacks, main meals and and tea with home­made Singer is a great place to relax;
cakes. Running west from the raspberry syrup are just two by night, the music and dancing
Old Quarter, ul. Krupnicza has specialities of the Café Camelot. carries on until the early hours.
plenty of places to choose The walls here are decorated Also embracing the retro­
from for a quick pick me­up with pictures by the celebrated bohemian ambience are
or to relax for an hour or two. Polish naive artist Nikifor. The Alchemia, Eszeweria and
Hidden behind the Józef Dym (Smoke) is next door, Mleczarnia; all three are great
Mehoffer House Museum (see serving delicious Pischinger cake. options for an evening drink.
p149) is the charming Meho The popularity of craft beer
Café, with outdoor seating in Street Cafés has had an enormous impact
the building’s pretty gardens. on Krakow’s drinking scene
The cool Tektura and Karma Most of the eateries in Market and there is an abundance of
serve some of the best coffee Square (Rynek Główny) open brew pubs to pick from. Though
in the city – and food, too. In street bars and cafés in the the choice – and quality – of
Kazimierz, Café Młynek has Café Młynek has Café Młynek spring and summer. The the beer is unquestionably
a laidback vibe and offers square is thus transformed excellent, one brew pub can
vegetarian versions of hearty into a huge open­air café for be very difficult to distinguish
Polish food. Polish coffeehouse thousands of customers. from the next: post­industrial
chain Columbus Coffee is A little away from the decor – plenty of sanded
another reliable choice. square, the corner of ul. Św. wood and exposed brickwork
Krakow’s very large student Tomasza and ul. Św. Jana is a – prevails in most. Some of
population is one of the main tiny pavement café paradise. the establishments making
reasons the city’s cafés continue The street café set up by the themselves heard, however,
to thrive. Students of all subjects, Black Gallery is very busy include Browar Lubicz and
ranging from art to philosophy, at night, sometimes till the Stara Zajezdnia. Multitaps
can be found lounging around early hours. serving all manner of guest