Page 93 - Travel Leisure - USA (February 2020)
P. 93

A St. Bart’s Primer






                      Getting There            Where to Stay            doubles from $1,640)      blanc.com; doubles        menu of simply
                      Tradewind Aviation       Eden Rock–St Barths      reopens this month        from $1,245) just         prepared dishes like
                      (flytradewind.com)       (oetker collection.com;   with 23 updated          expanded into the for­    chicken curry and
                      operates daily flights   doubles from $1,664),    rooms in colonial­mod     mer Taïwana hotel         tomato salad, while
                      to St. Bart’s from       on Baie de St. Jean,     style by the French       next door. The best       Fish Corner (41 Rue de
                                                                                                                                    l
                      Antigua, St. Thomas,     welcomed guests in       design team Gilles &      choice for a romantic     la Répub ique; 590-
                      and San Juan, Puerto     November, with a top­    Boissier. On Flamands     getaway is Hotel          590-51-36-33; entrées
                      Rico. It also recently   to­bottom redesign.      Beach, the LVMH­          Le Toiny (letoiny.com;    $24–$33), wedged
                      partnered with Ameri­    In Gustavia, Hôtel       owned Cheval Blanc        doubles from $2,195),     behind Gustavia store­
                      can Airlines for seam­   Barrière Le Carl Gustaf   St-Barth Isle de         set on the remote         fronts, serves
                      less connections.        (hotels barriere.com;    France Hôtel (cheval      Côte Sauvage, while       the day’s freshest
                                                                                                  Le Sereno (sereno         catch. Nikki Beach
                                                                                                  hotels.com; doubles       (saint-barth.nikki
                                                                                                  from $1,330), on          beach.com; entrées
                                                                                                  Grand Cul de Sac, has     $43–$46), meanwhile,
                                                                                                  a minimalist beach­       is the place to observe
                                                                                                  chic look. And in Anse    the outrageously
                                                                                                  de Caye, the eco­         wealthy getting outra­
                                                                                                  resort Hotel Manapany     geously drunk.
                                                                                                  (hotel manapany.com;
                                                                                                  doubles from $610)        Beaches
                                                                                                  debuted its refresh       Gouverneur, with its
                                                                                                  last March.               expanse of white
                                                                                                                            sand, is surprisingly
                                                                                                  Where to Eat              quiet, perhaps
                                                                                                  Eden Rock’s restau­       because of the steep
                                                                                                  rant, Sand Bar            descent required.
                                                                                                  (entrées $43–$94),        Nearby Salines is
                                                                                                  serves beach­dining       almost as striking
                                                                                                  classics (tuna tartare,   and a touch more
                                                                                                  roasted lobster) from     crowded. A long hike
                                                                                                  Jean­Georges Vonge­       (or a boat ride) is
                                                                                                  richten. Near Gustavia,   required to access
                                                                                                  Maya’s (mayas-st          Colombier, which
                                                                                                  barth.com; entrées        offers near­desolation
                                                                                                  $37–$48) offers a         and pristine waters.













                     home. The couple soon realized it made more           From left:           vases. Their son Spencer, a former reality-TV star
                     financial sense to turn it into a hotel, which        Reinforced           in the U.K., was also in-house to make sure his
                                                                           “submarine doors”
                     they’ve expanded and operated ever since.                                  new line of low-alcohol spirits was stocked behind
                                                                           protect the resort
                     “The deal I made with Rémy was that he was to         against future       the bar. (One of their other sons, James—not
                     leave everything behind except his toothbrush,”       storms; the lounge   there—happens to be married to Pippa Middleton,
                     David Matthews explained, because he wanted to        of Villa Frangipani,   sister of the future Queen of England.)
                                                                           designed by
                     preserve the eccentric atmosphere. The                                        The closure allowed the family to add needed
                                                                           co-owner Jane
                     adventurer’s furniture, photographs, and bric-a-      Matthews.            features. The formal restaurant that occupied
                     brac are mostly gone, but his singular personality                         the summit of the Rock—as the landmark outcrop
                     still guides the proprietors.                                              is called—has been replaced with three new
                         It’s a decidedly family-run place: Jane                                signature suites. A small spa has been added
                     Matthews, a Zimbabwe-born artist responsible for                           where the kitchens once were. The main building,
                     much of the interior design, was there on my visit,                        completely destroyed by the storm surge, was
                     still tinkering with the placement of bowls and                            rebuilt with the addition   (Continued on page 102)





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