Page 98 - Travel Leisure - USA (February 2020)
P. 98

Moroccan designers and artists, like those I                    The Ultimate                     more. Soufiane Zarib
              admired at Shtatto, reclaiming and updating                     Marrakesh                        (soufiane- zarib.com) stocks
              their traditions in innovative ways. Too bad I had              Shopping Trip                    eye-popping carpets, while
                                                                                                               the nearby Galerie Tindouf
              just missed late February’s 1-54 Contemporary                                                    (galerie tindouf.com) displays
              African Art Fair, which, since its launch in 2013,                                               treasures including antique
              has built a reputation as one of the most dynamic                                                Berber jewelry and vintage
                                                                                                               textiles. In the city’s industrial
              events on the region’s cultural calendar. In
                                                                                                               district, you can watch
              April, Marrakesh also served as the setting                     Getting There                    weavers creating the fabric
              for Dior’s Resort 2020 show, a collection that                  Royal Air Maroc (royalair        used to make on-trend
                                                                              maroc.com) offers the only
              included collaborations with African artists. More                                               clothing at Marrakshi Life
                                                                              direct flight from the U.S.
              evidence that it’s not only Instagram—which                                                      (marrakshilife.com). Over
                                                                              to Morocco, from JFK to          near the king’s palace, spice
              the town’s colors, light, and textures feel overtly             Casablanca. While internal
                                                                                                               shop Herboristerie Bab
              suited to—that can claim credit for the city’s                  flights are an option, the       Agnaou (1 Rue Bab Agnaou;
              current resurgence.                                             smart move is to have your       212-5243-91632) lines its
                                                                              hotel book a driver to whisk     shelves with jars of saffron,
                                                                              you off to Marrakesh by
              YOU CAN EXPERIENCE Marrakesh in myriad ways.                    road. The journey takes          rose petals, and orange-
              You can also tailor your degree of immersion                    2½ hours, and the highway        flower water. Tucked away
                                                                                                               on a road leading to the Atlas
              to suit your tastes, excavating or cocooning to                 is a dream.                      Mountains, Popham Design
              your precise comfort level. I had arrived two days              Where to Stay                    (popham design.com) makes
              earlier with my mother, who lives in London but,                                                 tiles that combine Moroccan
                                                                              Design lovers will adore the     technique with a modern,
              at the first sight of scruffy camels and strings of             Royal Mansour (royal
                                                                                                               graphic sensibility. And at
              roadside palm trees on our way in from the                      mansour.com; riads from          Nectarome (nectarome.
              airport, was instantly transported back to her                  $1,230), an opulent property     com), an apothecary and
                                                                              near the medina, where
              childhood in Alexandria, Egypt.                                                                  nursery in the Ourika Valley,
                                                                              guests stay in 53 picture-
                 Our first home base was the ultimate urban                   perfect traditional Moroccan     locally grown plants are
              sanctuary, the Royal Mansour hotel, right in the                homes. The hotel puts local      made into aromatic soaps,
                                                                                                               oils, and creams.
              middle of town. Built by King Mohammed VI                       craftsmanship front and
                                                                              center; its boutique is also
              just a decade ago (he is said to have simply                                                     Travel Planner
                                                                              world-class. For a more
              requisitioned a street and covered it with this                                                  T+L A-List member Michael
                                                                              informal take on the riad        Diamond is a Morocco spe-
              lavish compound), the property was designed                     experience, stay at El Fenn
                                                                                                               cialist who can enlist a
              as a showcase for the very best of Moroccan                     (el-fenn.com; doubles from       Marrakesh-based designer to
              craftsmanship. Everything here is exquisite, from               $255), a 28-room hotel inside    lead you on a day of shopping
                                                                              the medina with colorful,
              the onyx floors to the walls of inlaid wood, food                                                and design in the city. hello@
                                                                              Intagrammable interiors and      cobblestone travel; trips from
              courtesy of a chef from a Michelin three-starred                a must-visit design store on
              Parisian restaurant, and Andalusian gardens                     the ground floor.                $475 per person per day.
                                                                                                               — MADELINE BILIS
              landscaped by the team who recently refurbished
                                                                              Where to Shop
              the Alhambra in Granada, Spain.
                                                                              Contemporary art and
                 Instead of conventional guest rooms there
                                                                              fashion converge at Shtatto
              are 53 individual riads, spread over three small                (81 Derb Nkhal Rahba
              floors with a plunge pool and roof terrace where                Lakdima; 212-5243-75538), a
              you can request that your meals be served. It took              concept store with a 1950s-
                                                                              style hair salon attached.
              a day or two for me to realize what was especially
                                                                              Duck into Funky Cool Medina
              unusual about the place: wandering its grounds,                 (fb.com/funkycmedina), a
              among the trickling fountains and twittering                    tiny boutique chock-full of
              lovebirds in ornamental cages, I realized that                  shirts, hats, and vintage
              they were almost entirely empty of other people.                pieces, before continuing to
                                                                              Palais Saadien (palais
              Turns out, the incredibly attentive service is
                                                                              saadien.com) for a lesson in
              administered via a series of underground tunnels,               the art of rug buying. Clothing
              so you rarely encounter a member of the hotel’s                 and embroidery atelier
              550-strong staff.                                               Al Nour (alnour- textiles.com)
                                                                              provides work for local
                 A true cocooner could simply stay, soak in
                                                                              women with special needs
              the hammam, and shop at the Royal Mansour: its                  and sells pajamas, linens,
              boutique features regular designer collaborations,              children’s clothes, and






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