Page 139 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Rome
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PIAZZA  DI  SP A GNA      137


       a French monarch in the papal
       city, and the arguments
       continued until the 1720s when
       an Italian architect, Francesco
       de Sanctis, produced a design
       that satisfied both parties. The
       steps, completed in 1726,
       combine straight sections,
       curves, and terraces to create
       one of the city’s most dramatic
       and distinctive landmarks.
         When the Victorian novelist
       Charles Dickens visited Rome, he
       reported that the Spanish Steps
       were a meeting place for artists’   19th-century engraving of the inner facade of the Villa Medici
       models, who would wear
       colorful traditional costumes,   A pupil of Michelangelo,   chance to study in Rome. Nicolas
       hoping to catch the attention of   Volterra had to paint clothes on   Poussin was one of the first
       a wealthy artist. The steps are   the nudes in the Last Judgment   advisers to the Academy, Ingres
       now a popular place to sit, write   in the Sistine Chapel, in response    was a director, and former
       postcards, take photos, flirt,   to the objections of Pope Pius IV.  students include Jean-Honoré
       perform or people-watch, but     Michelangelo’s influence is   Fragonard and François Boucher.
       eating here is not allowed.  obvious in the powerfully     After 1803 when the French
                           muscled bodies shown in the   Academy moved to the Villa
                           Deposition (second chapel on   Medici, musicians were also
                           the left). The circles of gesturing   admitted; both Berlioz and
                           figures and dancing angels   Debussy came to Rome as
                           surrounding the Virgin Mary    students of the Academy.
                           in the Assumption (third chapel
                           on the right) have more in
                           common with the graceful    w All Saints
                           style of Raphael.
                                               Via del Babuino 153B. Map 4 F2.
                                               Tel 06-3600 1881. @ 117, 119.
                           q Villa Medici      Open 8:30am–7pm daily. 5
                                               In 1816 the pope gave English
                           Accademia di Francia a Roma, Viale
                           Trinità dei Monti 1. Map 5 A2. Tel 06-   residents and visitors the right
                           67611. @ 117, 119. q Spagna.    to hold Anglican services in
                           Open for exhibitions and concerts.   Rome, but it was not until the
                            Villa and gardens: Open Tue–Sun (four   early 1880s that they acquired
       Trinità dei Monti’s bell towers  to six guided visits daily, times vary –   a site to build their own church.
                           call ahead; in English at noon). & 8   The architect was G. E. Street,
       0 Trinità dei Monti   - ∑ villamedici.it  best known in Britain for his Neo-
                                               Gothic churches and the London
       Piazza della Trinità dei Monti. Map 5 A2.
       Tel 06-679 4179. @ 116, 117, 119.    Superbly positioned on the   Law Courts. All Saints is also
       q Spagna. Open 6:30am–8pm Tue–  Pincio hill above Piazza di Spagna,   built in Victorian Neo-Gothic,
       Sun (to midnight Thu). 5  this 16th-century villa has kept   and the interior, though
                           the name it assumed when   splendidly decorated with
       The views of Rome from the   Cardinal Ferdinando de’ Medici   different colored Italian marbles,
       platform in front of the twin   bought it in 1576. From the   has a very English air. Street also
       bell-towered facade of Trinità   terrace you can look across    designed St.-Paul’s-within-the-
       dei Monti are so beautiful that   the city to Castel Sant’Angelo,   Walls in Via Nazionale, whose
       the church itself is often   from where Queen Christina of   interior is a jewel of British Pre-
       ignored. It is, however, unusual   Sweden is said to have fired the   Raphaelite art.
       for Rome, because it was   large cannon ball that now sits      The street on which
       founded by the French in 1495,   in the basin of the fountain.  All Saints stands got
       and although it was later badly     The villa is home to   its name from the
       damaged, there are still traces of   the French Academy.   Fontana del Sileno,
       attractive late Gothic latticework   This was     known as
       in the vaults of the transept. The   founded by   Babuino
       interconnecting side chapels   Louis XIV in       (baboon) due
       are decorated with Mannerist   1666 to give        to the sad
       paintings, including two fine   a few select   Fontana del Sileno, on Via del   condition in
       works by Daniele da Volterra.    painters the   Babuino since 1957  which it was found.




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