Page 140 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Rome

138  ROME AREA B Y AREA

e Casa di Goethe
Via del Corso 18. Map 4 F1. Tel 06-
3265 0412. @ 117, 119, 490, 495, 628,
926. v 2. q Flaminio. Open 10am–
6pm Tue–Sun. & 7 8 =
∑ casadigoethe.it
The German poet, dramatist,
and novelist Johann Wolfgang
von Goethe (1749–1832) lived
in this house from 1786 until
1788 and worked on a journal
that eventually formed part
of his travel book The Italian
Journey. Rome’s noisy street life
irritated him, especially during
Carnival time. He was a little Portrait of Goethe in the Roman countryside by Tischbein (1751–1821)
perturbed by the number of
murders in his neighborhood, was narrower. So Rainaldi gave
but Rome energized him and Santa Maria dei Miracoli (on the
his book became one of the right) a circular dome and Santa
most influential ever written Maria in Montesanto an oval
about Italy. one to squeeze it into the
narrower site, while keeping the
sides of the supporting drums
r Santa Maria that face the piazza identical.
dei Miracoli and
Santa Maria in t Pincio Gardens
Montesanto
Il Pincio. Map 4 F1. @ 117, 119, 490,
Piazza del Popolo. Map 4 F1. 495, 628, 926. v 2. q Flaminio.
@ 117, 119, 490, 495, 628, 926.
v 2. q Flaminio. Santa Maria dei The Pincio Gardens lie above
Miracoli: Tel 06-361 0250. Open Piazza del Popolo on a hillside
7am–12:30pm & 4–7:30pm daily. that has been so skillfully
5 7 Santa Maria in Montesanto: terraced, and richly planted
Tel 06-361 0594. Open 5am–8pm with trees that, from below, the
Mon–Fri, 10:30am–1:30pm Sun. zig-zagging road climbing to
the gardens is virtually invisible.
The two churches at the south In ancient Roman times, there
end of Piazza del Popolo were were magnificent gardens on
designed by the architect Carlo the Pincio hill, but the present
Rainaldi (1611–91); the plans gardens were designed in The Pincio Gardens water clock
were revised by Bernini, and the early 19th century by
it was Carlo Fontana who Giuseppe Valadier (who also oaks, soon became a fashionable
eventually completed the redesigned the Piazza del place to stroll, and even in the
project. To provide a focal point Popolo). The broad avenues, 20th century such diverse
for the piazza, the churches had lined with umbrella pines, characters as Gandhi and
to appear symmetrical, but the palm trees, and Mussolini, Richard Strauss
site on the left evergreen and King Farouk of Egypt
patronized the Casina Valadier,
an exclusive café and restaurant
on the grounds.
From the Pincio’s main
square, Piazzale Napoleone I,
the panoramic views of Rome
stretch from the Monte Mario
to the Janiculum. For full effect,
approach the gardens from the
grounds of Villa Borghese (see
pp260–61) above the Pincio,
or along Viale della Trinità
The twin churches of Santa Maria in Montesanto (left) and Santa Maria dei Miracoli in a dei Monti. The panorama is
19th-century view of Piazza del Popolo particularly beautiful at sunset,

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