Page 295 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Rome

NINE GUIDED W ALKS  293

gorgeous basilica of Santa Tips for Walkers
Sabina 9 (see p206), where its
rare, 5th-century wooden doors Starting point: The Baths of
incorporate one of the earliest Caracalla entrance on Viale delle
Crucifixion representations. Terme di Caracalla 52.
Continue along Via di Santa Length: 3 miles (5 km).
Sabina to see the fine Cosmati Getting there: You can walk
work in SS Bonifacio e Alessio 0 from the Circo Massimo Metro
stop, or take bus 118 or 628.
(see p206). The street ends in the Best time for walk: Start in the
Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta q morning, timing your walk so that
(see p206), where you get a tiny you can eat lunch in Testaccio.
view of St. Peter’s dome through t Keats’ gravestone at the Protestant Stopping points: There are
the keyhole at number 3. Turn Cemetery on Via Caio Cestio many options, since fantastic and
left down Via di Porta Lavernate, authentic local eateries abound
have long burrowed into its in and around Piazza Testaccio,
flanks to take advantage of the from cheap pizza places to
terra cotta’s constant, cool traditional Roman restaurants.
temperature for storing
GREGORIO
LU N GO T E V E RE AVENT INO
PORTO DI RIPA GR A ND E 9 PARCO DI V. S. ALBERTO VIA DEL CIRCO MASSIMO 5 VIA DI S. PIAZZA DI 4 through Piazza where it would be turned into
wine. Turn left
PARCO DEL
CIRCO
V IA DEI CER CHI
MASSIMO
PIAZZALE
such (now) classic Roman
SAVELLO
UGO LA
8
delicacies as oxtail stew, and
pajata (calf intestines). Continue
Te v e r e
Circo Massimo
LARGO
PORTA
ARRIGO VII
SABINA
which becomes Via Caio Cestio,
VIA S. DOMENICO
to the Protestant Cemetery t (see
PIAZZA D. 0 VIA DI SANTA MAGNO PIAZZA 7 V I A D. FONTE DI FAUNO 6 CAPENA VI A DI VAL LE D E L L E C AM EN E along Via di Monte Testaccio,
VIALE G. BACCE L L I
EMPORIO q DI DIANA VIA DI S. PRISCA VIALE D. TERME DI CARACALLA p207) where such luminaries as
TEMPIO
MALFA V. D. TERME DECIANE
LUNGOTEVERE TESTACCIO w VIA DI PORTA LAVERNATE VIA S. MELANIA GIOSAFAT V I A L E A V E N T I N O P A R C O D I PIAZZA DI S. 3 Via Marmorata, turn right to pass
Keats and Shelley lie in peace. At
V. S.
the Porta di San Paolo y,
P O R T A
VIA A. VESPUCCI
a city gate dating to AD 402. As
C A P ENA
BALBINA
VIA GIOVANNI BRANCA TESTACCIO D. SERVILI V. D. PIRAMIDE ALBANIA REMURIA 1 2 PIAZZALE you walk through the remains
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
of the Aurelian Wall into Piazzale
NUMA
V I A AV E N T I N A
POLLIONE
V. ASINIO
POMPILIO
Ostiense, you cannot miss on
V I A G . B AT T I S TA
M. GELSOMINI
PIAZZA
VIALE
PIAZZA
your right the Pyramid of Caius
CESTIA
V I A M A R M O R ATA
V I A A L D O M A N U N Z I O
Cestius u (see p207). The final leg
PARCO DELLA
RESISTENZA
DELL’8
skirting the hill along Via di
VIA GALVANI
or, alternatively, hop
SETTEMBRE
on the bus (Nos. 23, 271, or 769)
Monte Testaccio. Across the
P. DI
PORTA
V. L. GHIBERTI
to see the wonderfully weird
street, you will see the blind
S. PAOLO Key Orazio Giustiniani to continue is a long stroll down Via Ostiense
VIA GALVANI y PIAZZALE Walk route arcades of the Ex-Mattatoio r, Centrale Montemartini i, an early
Industrial Age power
e
a defunct abattoir whose
OSTIENSE
VIA NICOLA ZABAGLIA
t
MONTE VIA C AI O CE ST I O u Piramide workers were paid, in part, with plant now stuffed with ancient
TESTACCIO
C A M P O B O A R I O San Paolo 1900, the church houses of the animal across the street to you back to within walking
r TESTACCIO passing the facade of the day’s offal. They would carry sculptures (see p269). Bus
VIA MONTE Stazione Sant’Anselmo w. Built in this quinto quarto (fifth quarter) numbers 23 and 769 will take
Porta
PIAZZA V.
distance of Piramide Metro.
BOTTEGO
a 3rd-century mosaic scene
one of Testaccio’s early eateries,
of Orpheus found during
excavations. From Piazza dei
V I A L E D E L
VIA GIOVANNI DA EMPOLI VIA OSTIENSE Servili, turn right on Via Asinio
VIA DEL PORTO FLUVIALE Pollione to go down off
the Aventine.
Testaccio and South
Cross Via Marmorata and
continue down Via Galvani. As
VIA DEL COMMERCIO
VIA F.
NEGRI
you cross Via Nicola Zabaglia,
you see Testaccio market ahead
VIA OSTIENSE on your right, while the ground
on your left rises to form Monte
Testaccio e (see p206), an ancient
entirely of potsherds. It is lined
i garbage dump made up
with various restaurants that i Ancient sculptures on display in the Centrale Montemartini
For keys to symbols see back flap
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