Page 291 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Rome

NINE GUIDED W ALKS  289

Tips for Walkers
Starting point: Castel Sant’Angelo.
Length: 2.2 miles (3.6 km).
Getting there: Take bus 30, 34,
40, 49, 62, 70, 87, 130, 186, 224,
280, 492, 913, 926, or 990.
Best time for walk: Go in the
afternoon, when the area starts
to come alive.
Stopping points: Piazza del
Popolo is flanked by two great
Roman cafés with clear political
affiliations – leftist Rosati (see
p321) on the west side, right-wing
i The Piazza di Spagna, and the famous Spanish Steps, usually busy with visitors but Canova on the east. The Spanish
quiet on rare occasions Steps area has some great
eateries (see pp315–17) as well
hospice for pilgrims), you will galleries hawking everything as the usual fast food chains.
see on the right Chiesa di Gesù from Old Master Madonnas to
e e Maria 0, Carlo Rinaldi’s 1675 Modernist abstracts. Take the
r Baroque master piece. Farther third left, then right onto right down Via Gregoriana to
PIAZZA w
DEL along, at No. 18, is the Casa quiet Via Margutta y, home No. 28, where painter Federico
POPOLO t VIALE G. D’ ANNUNZIO di Goethe q (see p138). of artists’ studios and galleries Zuccari turned the door and
V. F. DI SAVOIA V. D. OCA The Corso ends in the for centuries. Turn right again window frames of his Palazzetto
Zuccari s into monsters. At
dramatic Piazza
down Via Orto di Napoli to
V I A D I R I P E T T A VIA LAURINA y on a fountain, and surrounded right down Via Sistina into
VIA D. PENNA VIA DEL BABUINO del Popolo w return to Via del Babuino, then the bottom of Via Gregoriana,
VIA A. BRUNETTI q VIALE TRINITÀ DEI MONTI (see p139). left. On your right, reclining turn left up to Via F. Crispi, then
VIA D.
VANTAGGIO V I A D E L C O R S O VIA MARGUTTA by various graffiti and placards, Piazza Barberini d, noting
Bernini’s fountains (see p256).
is one of the ugliest – and
9
statues in
Via V. Veneto, and left again.
7 V. A. CANOVA 0 VIA D. GRECI u VIA DEL BABU INO most respected – Turn left up the square, cross
6 8 Rome. A few dozen paces up on the
VIA DELLA FREZZA i Spagna right is the staircase to the
PIAZZA DI a church of Santa Maria della
VIA DELLA CROCE
VIA A RA PA C I S SPAGNA
5 4 VIA V I T TORIA VIA MARIO DE' FIORI o p s VIA D. ARTISTI V. VITTORIO VENETO Concezione. To finish off,
VIA DELLE CARROZZE
go into the Capuchin
VIA P. CAVALLINI LUNGOT. DEI MELLINI 3 IMPERATORE VIA BELSIANA V IA B O C C A D I L E ON E MIGNANELLI V I A G R EGORIANA V I A F R A N C E S C O C R I S P I VIA PURIFICAZIONE f Museum and its
VIA CONDOTTI
PIAZZA
creepy crypt f
PIAZZA
L UN G OTEVERE IN AUGUSTA
AUGUSTO
there are four chapels
VIA V. COLONNA Ponte Cavour VIA BORGOGNONA V. PROPAGANDA V I A S I S T I N A Barberini (see p256), where
PIAZZA V I A T O M A C E L L I d
decorated with
PIAZZA
CAVOUR CALAMATTA VIA DELL’ARANCIO V I A D U E M A C E L L I VIA ZUCCHELLI BARBERINI mosaics, and skeletal
V. CAPO LE CASE
LUN GOTEV ERE P R ATI LUNG O T E V E RE M AR ZI O church on its north end, Santa The Babuino u (like the famous Barberini, and the Metro station.
VIA L.
VIA D. AVIGNONESI
2 VIA ULPIANO The square is named after the V I A D E L T R I T O N E displays. When you leave
the crypt, head for Piazza
Maria del Popolo e (see pp140–

41). The church, which is full of
LUNGOT. CASTELLO P.te Umberto T e v e r e art treasures, is called “St. Mary Pasquino, see p126) has served
V IA TRI B ON I A N O
of the People” and was built
as a soapbox for political and
1 to help exorcise the ghost of social dissent for centuries. Via
del Babuino ends in Piazza di
Nero from a walnut grove
F i u m e on this site, once Nero’s family Spagna i (see p135), usually
L UNG O T EV E RE T OR DI NO N A estate where the disgraced thronged by tourists. The
emperor was secretly buried.
pink house to the right of the
Ponte
The estate once continued up
Spanish Steps is the Keats-
Sant’Angelo
the slopes of what are now the Shelley Memorial House o
Pincio Gardens r (see p138), (see p136). Take a look inside
above the piazza to the east, to see Keats’ death mask.
and locals declare that the
ravens’ screams are those of The Spanish Steps to the
the dead emperor. Leave Piazza Capuchin Crypt
del Popolo from the southeast Go up the famed Spanish
corner to stroll down Via del Steps p (see pp136–7) to Trinità f Bones and skulls from monks in the
Babuino t, lined with art dei Monti a (see p137). Turn Capuchin Crypt
For keys to symbols see back flap
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