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130      BEY OND  BRUSSELS

       9 Leuven

       Within easy striking distance of Brussels, the historic Flemish
       town of Leuven traces its origins to a fortified camp con­
       structed here by Julius Caesar. In medieval times, the town
       became an important centre of the cloth trade, but it was as
       a seat of learning that it achieved international prominence.
       In 1425, Pope Martin V and Count John of Brabant founded
       Leuven’s university, and by the mid­1500s it was one of
       Europe’s most prestigious academic institutions, the home
       of such famous scholars as Erasmus and Mercator. Even today,
       the university exercises a dominant influence over the town,
       and its students give Leuven a vibrant atmosphere. The bars
       and cafés flanking the Oude Markt, a large square in the
       centre of town, are especially popular. Adjoining the square
       is the medieval Grote Markt, and near the centre is the Stella   Huge buttresses supporting the tower
       Artois Brewery, part of the world’s largest brewery group.  of St Pieterskerk
                                               R St Pieterskerk and Museum
                           façade. A line of narrow win-  Schatkamer van St Pieter
                           dows rise up over three floors   Grote Markt. Tel (016) 29 5133.
                           beneath a steeply pitched roof   Open 10am–4:30pm Mon, Tue, Thu–
                           adorned with dormer windows   Sat; 11am–4:30pm Sun. Closed Wed,
                           and pencil-thin turrets. It is,   15 Aug, 25 & 26 Dec, 1 & 2 Jan. & to
                           however, in the fine quality of   museum.
                           its stonework that the building   Across the square from the
                           excels, with delicately carved   Stadhuis rises St Pieterskerk,
                           tracery and detailed medieval   a massive church built over a
                           figures beneath 300 niche   period of 200 years from the
                           bases. There are grotesques of   1420s. Inside the church, the
                           every description as well as   sweeping lines of the nave are
                           repre sen tations of folktales and   intercepted by an impres sive
                           biblical stories, all carved in   1499 rood screen and a Baroque
                           exuberant late-Gothic style.   wooden pulpit. The church also
                           Within the niche alcoves is a   houses the Museum Schatkamer
       Lively café society in the Oude Markt  series of 19th-century statues   van St Pieter (Treasury), which
                           depicting local dignitaries and   has three paintings by Dirk
       P Oude Markt        politicians. Guided tours of    Bouts (1415–75). Born in the
       This handsome, cobble-stoned   the interior are available, and   Netherlands, Bouts spent most
       square is flanked by a tasteful   include three lavishly decorated   of his working life in Leuven,
       ensemble of high-gabled brick   reception rooms.  becoming its official artist.
       buildings. Some of these date
       from the 18th century; others           E Stella Artois Brewery
       are compara tively new. At              Vuurkruisenlaan. Open Sat & Sun. &
       ground level, these buildings           8 obligatory. A 90-minute tour with
       house the largest concentration         beer tasting in Dutch at 1pm and in
       of bars and cafés in town, and as       English at 3pm on Sat & Sun, with an
       such attract the town’s univer-         additional tour in English at 11am in
       sity students in their droves.          Jul & Aug.
                                               With brewing being an important
       P Stadhuis                              part of Leuven’s history since the
       Grote Markt. Tel (016) 20 3020.         16th century, a visit to Belgium’s
       Open daily. & 8 obligatory,             beer capital would not be
       3pm daily.                              complete with out a brewery tour.
       Built between 1439 and 1463             The Stella Artois Brewery offers
       from the profits of the cloth           a variety of tours on weekends
       trade, Leuven’s town hall, the          from May to October. All tours
       Stadhuis, was designed to               take place in the brewing hall,
       demonstrate the wealth of the           covering local beer-making
       city’s merchants. This distinctive,     history and the secrets of the
       tall building is renowned for its   Stone carvings of medieval figures decorate   brewing process, with the option
       lavishly carved and decorated   the Stadhuis façade  to finish with a beer in the bar.




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