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134      BEY OND  BRUSSELS


        e A Tour of World War I Battlefields
                                                               Diksmuide
        In 1914, the invading German army forced the Belgians to retreat
        to the far northeast, behind the River IJzer. To impede further
        German advance, the Belgians opened the sluicegates of the
        river and flooded the landscape, which formed an effective
        obstacle as far south as Diksmuide. South of here, the Germans
        confronted the Allies along a ridge to the east of  Ypres called   Woumen
        the Ypres Salient. Between 1915 and 1917, this was the front    Ijzer
        line, where the gruelling stalemate of trench warfare cost more
        than 500,000 lives. Today, the area around the Salient is a   Blankaart
        beguilingly pretty landscape dotted with monuments,    Natuurreservaat
                                                        de Blankaart
        museums and numerous cemeteries.


          1 Diksmuide and                              Merkem
              Dodengang
          The Belgians dug in
           along the canal of
          Diksmuide. Some of
          their trenches have
           been preserved at                                    Bikschote
              Dodengang.
                                                                         BOEZINGE   STR
                                 2 John McCrae Site
                                 Bunkers, dressing              LANGEMARKSWEG
                                 stations and the Essex
                                 Farm Cemetery recall     Boezing
                                 where Canadian medic   Elverdinge
                                 John McCrae served,              Ijzer
                                 and wrote his poem
                                 “In Flanders Fields”. The
                                 poem established the
                                 poppy as the symbol
                                 of the war dead.

        3 Langemark This       4 Guynemer Monument                 Ypres
        haunting German military   A sculpture of a stork
        cemetery has the flat   at Poelkapelle celebrates the
        tombstones of some     pioneer of military aviation              Zillebeekse
        44,000 soldiers laid out   Georges Guynemer, who was lost,       Vijver
        beneath a cloak of trees.  presumed dead, near here in 1917.
                                                   Dikkebus              VAARTSTRAAT
                                                        Dikkebusse   Voormezele
                                                         Vijver
                                   5 Canadian Forces
                                  Memorial  At St-Juliaan,
                                    the large bust of The   HEUVELLAND
                                      Brooding Soldier
                                    commemorates the
                                  2,000 soldiers who died   Kemmel
                                   after the first ever gas
                                       attack in 1915.
        6 Tyne Cot Cemetery The largest
        Commonwealth cemetery in the world
        contains nearly 12,000 graves. The walls        Wulvergem
        bear the names of 35,000 missing soldiers.                 Mesen





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