Page 59 - (DK Eyewitness) Top 10 Travel Guide - Brussels Bruges Ghent & Antwerp

THE L OWER T OWN  57

façade. Baes solved this
problem by placing the façade The Béguine Movement
directly behind the front age The béguine lifestyle swept across
of the new building. Other western Europe from the 12th
interesting design features century, and Brussels once had a
are peculiar to the late 19th community of over 1,200 béguine
century. The four exterior metal women. The religious order is
terraces and a staircase leading believed to have begun among
to the ground were built for widows of the Crusaders, who
audience evac uation in the resorted to a pious life of sisterhood
event of fire. Major renovations on the death of their husbands. The
have restored the fabric of the women were lay nuns, who opted for
original building and added a a secluded existence devoted to
second building. charitable deeds, but not bound by
strict religious vows. Most béguine
convents disappeared during the
Protestant Reformation in much of Béguine lay nun at prayer in a
Europe during the 16th century, but Brussels béguinage
begijnhofs (bégu inages) continued to
thrive in Flanders. The grounds generally consisted of a church, a
courtyard, communal rooms, homes for the women and extra
rooms for work. The movement dissolved as female emancipation
spread during the early 1800s, although 20 convents remain,
including those in Bruges (see p103) and Ghent.
s Eglise Ste- Place Ste-Catherine was only
Catherine laid in front of this large church
after the basin once here
Place Ste-Catherine 50, 1000 BRU.
Map 1 C2. Tel (02) 513 3481. was filled in; it was paved
The 19th-century interior staircase of @ 47, 88. q Ste-Catherine. in 1870.
Théâtre Royal Flamand Open 9am–8pm Mon–Sat, The central square was once
9:30am–7pm Sun. 7 on request. the city’s main fish market and,
a Maison de la While a church was first built though the market is now gone,
there are plenty of restaurants
Bellone here in the 15th century, the in which to indulge in a dish or
oldest remaining part today is two of Brussels’ famous seafood.
Rue de Flandre 46, 1000 BRU.
Map 1 C2. Tel (02) 513 3333. the Baroque tower dating from The best places to look flank
@ 47, 88. q Ste-Catherine. Open 1629. Inspired by the Eglise the square: Quai aux Briques
9am–5pm Mon & Tue, 9am–7pm St-Eustache in Paris, the present and Quai au Bois à Brûler (Brick
Wed, Thu & Fri, noon–7pm Sat. church was redesigned in 1854–9 Quay and Tim ber Quay, named
Closed Sun, Jul. ∑ bellone.be by Joseph Poelaert in a variety after their industrial past)
of styles. Notable features of the both contain lively parades
This 17th-century aristocratic inter ior include a 14th-century of fish restaurants. Be warned,
residence, now shielded under a statue of the Black Madonna however, that prices tend to
glass roof, was once and a portrait of be quite high.
the headquar ters of St Cath erine – for
the Ommegang whom the church
proces sion (see p29). was built.
The original façade A typically Flemish
is notable for its pulpit was installed
decoration. There is at some stage; it
a statue of Bellona may have come
(goddess of war), from the parish of
after whom the Mechelen. Two
house is named, Stonework on the Maison impressive tombs
above the central de la Bellone were carved by Gilles-
arch, and the window Lambert Godecharle.
ledges have med allions of To the east of the church is the
Roman emperors. Tour Noire (Black Tower), a
Today, the house, its exhi- surviving remnant of the
bition centre and once-private 12th-century stone city walls.
theatre are open for dance and Although this area has been
cinema shows, and temporary dedicated to the saint since the The spacious Victorian interior of the Eglise
The ornate façade of Eglise St-Jean-Baptiste-au-Béguinage exhibitions of art and furniture. 13th century, the square of Ste-Catherine

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