Page 145 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - London
P. 145

HOLBORN  AND   THE  INNS  OF  C OUR T      143


                                               from the Knights Templar, a
                                               chivalrous order that used to
                                               protect pilgrims to the Holy
                                               Land. The order was based here
                                               until it was suppressed by the
                                               Crown because its power was
                                               viewed as a threat. Initiations
                                               probably took place in the crypt
                                               of Temple Church and there are
                                               13th-century effigies of Knights
                                               Templar in the nave.
                                                 Among some other ancient
                                               buildings is the Middle Temple
       William Capon’s engraving of Fleet Street in 1799  Hall. Its fine Elizabethan interior
                                               survives. Behind Temple,
       9 Temple Bar        headquarters of The Daily   peaceful lawns stretch lazily
       Memorial            Telegraph. Next to the church of   down towards the Embankment.
                           St-Dunstan-in-the-West (which
       Fleet St EC4. Map 14 D2. 1 Holborn,   largely dates from the 1830s) is
       Temple, Chancery Lane.  a building adorned with the
                           names of former newspapers.
       The monument in the middle of     The printing presses under-
       Fleet Street dates from 1880 and   neath the newspaper offices
       marks the entrance to the City   were abandoned in 1987, when
       of London. On state occasions it   new technology made it easy
       is a long-standing tradition for   to produce papers away from
       the monarch to pause here and   the centre of town in areas such
       ask permission of the Lord Mayor   as Wapping and the Docklands.
       to enter. Temple Bar, a huge arch-  Today the news papers have
       way designed by Wren, used    also left Fleet Street, even
       to stand here. It spent over    though some of the journalists’
       a century in the grounds of a   traditional watering holes   The impressive organ in the historic
       country estate in Hertfordshire   remain, such as Ye Olde Cheshire   Temple Church
       before being erected at the   Cheese public house (see p144),
       entrance of Paternoster Square   and the legendary El Vino wine   w St Bride’s
       near St Paul’s Cathedral (see   bar, at the western end opposite   Fleet St EC4. Map 14 F2. Tel 020 7427
       pp152–5) in 2004.   Fetter Lane.
                                               0133. 1 Blackfriars. Open 8am–6pm
                                               Mon–Fri, 10am–6:30pm Sun (hours
       0 Fleet Street      q Temple            vary Sat). Closed pub hols. 7 8
                                               3pm Tue. 5 11am & 5:30pm Sun. =
       EC4. Map 14 E1. 1 Temple,   Inner Temple, King’s Bench Walk EC4.   Concerts. ∑ stbrides.com
       Blackfriars, St Paul’s.  Map 14 E2. Tel 020 7797 8241 (for
                           tours). 1 Temple. Open 12:30–3pm   St Bride’s is one of Wren’s best-
       England’s first printing press   Mon–Fri (grounds only). 7 Middle   loved churches. Its position just
       was set up by William Caxton    Temple Hall, Middle Temple Lane EC4.   off Fleet Street has made it the
       in the late 15th century. Some   Tel 020 7427 4800. Open 10am–noon   traditional venue for memorial
       years later, his assistant began   Mon–Fri. Closed at short notice for   services to departed journalists.
       his own business in Fleet Street,   functions. 7 8 book ahead. ^   Wall plaques commemorate
       and the area became the centre   Temple Church Tel 020 7353 8559.   notable pressmen and women
       of London’s publishing industry.   Open Mon–Fri; call ahead to check   and printers. The marvellous
       Playwrights Shake speare and   times. & 5 1:15pm Thu,   octagonal layered spire
       Ben Jonson were patrons of    8:30am & 11:15am Sun.   has been the model
                           ∑ templechurch.com
       the old Mitre tavern, now                     for tiered wedding
       No. 37 Fleet Street. In 1702,                 cakes since shortly
       the first newspaper, The Daily   This series of   after it was added in
       Courant, was issued from Fleet   courtyards and   1703. Bombed in 1940,
       Street – conveniently placed    buildings comprises   the interior was faith-
       for the City and Westminster,   two of the four Inns of   fully restored after
       which were the main sources    Court: the Middle   World War II. The
       of news. Later the street   Temple and the Inner   fascinating crypt contains
       became synonymous with    Temple. Lincoln’s Inn   remnants of earlier
       the Press. The grand Art Deco   (see p140) and Gray’s Inn   Stonework at St Bride’s,  churches on the site,
       building with Egyptian-style   (see p145) complete the   traditionally the   and a section of
       detail at No. 135 is the former   four. The name derives   “journalists’ church”  Roman pavement.




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