Page 241 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - London

HA MPSTEAD AND HIGHGA TE  239

broad view across London; even downstairs has been altered
today, when tall buildings inter­ frequently, the small upstairs
vene, it provides one of the most Turpin Bar is original. A pair of
spectacular views over the capital. guns over the bar were reputedly
From here the dome of St Paul’s taken from anti­Catholic rioters,
is prominent. Parliament Hill is who came to Hampstead to
also a popular place for flying burn the Lord Chancellor’s house
kites and sailing model boats at Kenwood during the Gordon
on the boating pond. Riots of 1780. The landlord
detained them by offering
pint after pint of free beer, and
when they were drunk,
disarmed them.
Among the pub’s noted
patrons have been the poets Pergola walk at the Hill Garden
Shelley, Keats and Byron, the
actor David Garrick and the e Vale of Health
artist Sir Joshua Reynolds. NW3. Map 1 B3. 1 Hampstead.
The tollhouse has been
restored; it juts into the road so This area was famous as a
that, in the days when tolls were distinctly unhealthy swamp
levied, traffic could not race past before it was drained in 1770;
The historic Spaniards Inn without paying. until then it was known as
Hatches Bottom. Its newer
q Spaniards Inn name may derive from people
w The Hill Garden
Spaniards Rd NW3. Map 1 B1. fleeing here from cholera in
Tel 020 8731 8406. 1 Hampstead, North End Way NW3. Map 1 A2. London at the end of the 18th
East Finchley. Open noon–11pm 1 Hampstead, Golders Green. century. Alternatively, the name
Mon–Sat, noon–10:30pm Sun. 7 Open dawn to dusk daily. could have been the hype of a
∑ thespaniardshampstead.co.uk property developer when it
This charming garden was was first recorded in 1801.
Dick Turpin, the notorious created by Edwardian soap The poet James Henry Leigh
18th­century highwayman, is manufacturer and patron of Hunt put it on the literary map
said to have frequented this the arts Lord Leverhulme. when he moved here in 1815
pub. When he wasn’t holding It was originally the grounds and played host to Coleridge,
up stagecoaches on their way to his house and is now part of Byron, Shelley and Keats.
to and from London, he stabled Hampstead Heath. It boasts a D H Lawrence lived here
his horse, Black Bess, at the raised pergola walkway, best briefly and Stanley Spencer
Kenwood stables. The building seen in summer when the painted in a room above the
certainly dates from Turpin’s plants are in flower; the garden Vale of Health Hotel, which
time and, although the bar also has a beautiful formal pond. was demolished in 1964.

Adam redesigned Lord Mansfield, who lived
the façade of the Adam furnished these here from 1754 until 1793,
old building. older rooms. had his dressing room here.
The anteroom was
designed at the same time
as the library.
The Adam library has a
spectacularly curved,
painted ceiling.

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