Page 327 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - London

SHOPS AND M ARKE T S  325

Specialist Shops is one of the oldest wine
merchants in the world,
London may be famed for grand department stores such as still trading in wines, fortified
Harrods, but there are many specialist shops which should wines and spirits from its
also figure on the visitor’s itinerary. Some have expertise ancient, panelled shop in
built up over a century or more, while others are new and St James’s. In contrast, the
Wine Rooms, with locations
fashionable, or cater to the whims of eccentric collectors. in both Fulham and Kensington,
Whether you are looking for traditional British products and offer excellent wine tastings
food, high-tech gadgets, or the latest trends in music, London and have a vast selection of
has a wide range of stores to suit everyone’s tastes. wines to try and buy in a
sleek and modern setting.
Food
the white-coated proprietors
Britain’s reputation for terrible also serve morning toast One-Offs
food is proving hard to shake and sandwiches on proper Many of London’s quirky old
off but, in reality, the national china. For traditional English specialist shops have closed
cuisine has improved chocolates, such as violet or due to rising rents, but there
immeasurably, and London rose creams and after-dinner are still some fascinating
has become one of the culinary mints in beautiful gift boxes, anachronisms, as well as
capitals of the world. There is head for Charbonnel et Walker interesting newcomers, to
a huge interest in local and in Royal Arcade off Bond be found across the city.
organic produce, as well as Street. It has been in business A large number of specialist
delicacies imported from all for more than 100 years, and traders operate from stalls in
over Europe. This is reflected holds royal warrants. True antiques markets such as Alfie’s
in the growing number of chocoholics will be in their and Portobello Road (see p337),
food markets, the biggest element at Hotel Chocolat’s where you can find everything
being Borough Market (see shop/café, with a vast selec- from old military medals to
p335). Specialities that are tion to choose from. Also commemorative china and
well worth sampling include committed to “real” chocolate, vintage luggage. A notable
a variety of chocolates, biscuits, Rococo is well-known for its survivor is James Smith & Sons,
preserves, cheeses and teas unique blue-and-white the largest and oldest umbrella
(see pp292–3). Victorian-style packaging. shop in Europe, which first
The food halls of Fortnum & opened for business in 1830.
Mason, Harrods and Harvey Behind its mahogany and
Nichols (see p317) are good Drinks glass-panelled façade lies
outlets for all of these, but it’s Tea, the most British of drinks, an array of high-quality
also worth visiting the gastro- comes in all kinds of flavours. umbrellas and walking sticks,
nomic gems dotted around Fortnum & Mason’s traditional including the once ubiquitous
town. Of these, A Gold, housed teas come in appealingly refined city gent brolly.
in an atmo spheric old milliner’s gift selections. The Tea House Halcyon Days specializes
shop near Spitalfields Market, is packed with myriad varieties in little enamelled copper
specializes in traditional foods from classic to creative (such boxes, the delightful products
from across Britain. Its goods, as “summer pudding”), colour- of a revived 18th-century
including cheeses, sausages, ful souvenir tins and teapots. English craft. Top-quality
jams, baked goods, English Postcard Teas is another wooden chess sets and boards,
wines and mead, are advertised specialist retailer of high- including an ornamental
on chalkboards. Paxton & quality teas. design featuring Sherlock
Whitfield, a delightful shop The quaint 19th-century Holmes characters, are available
dating from 1797, stocks more Algerian Coffee Stores manages at Chess & Bridge Ltd. VV
than 300 cheeses, including to pack more than 140 varieties Rouleaux is festooned with
baby Stiltons and Cheshire of coffee and 200 teas into its every imaginable type of ribbon
truckles, along with pork pies, small shop. Family business HR and flamboyant trimming.
biscuits, oils and preserves. Higgins sells fine coffees and The young and young at
The shelves of tiny Neal’s teas from around the world. heart will enjoy Honeyjam,
Yard Dairy groan with huge Attractive gift sets are available which sells traditional toys and
British farmhouse cheeses. and you can try before you buy games for all ages. Benjamin
Paul Rothe & Son is a family- in the coffee room downstairs. Pollock’s Toyshop does a nifty
run deli that has hardly changed Whisky lovers should head line in miniature self-assembly
since it opened more than a to The Vintage House, which paper theatres, as well as other
century ago. Besides selling displays the widest array traditional toys and antique
“British and foreign provisions”, of single malts in England, teddies. The Old Cinema in
such as preserves, old- including some very old Chiswick specializes in quirky
fashioned sweets and biscuits, bottles. Berry Bros & Rudd vintage furniture.

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