Page 207 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Sweden
P. 207

GO THENBURG      205


       Josephson and the Gothenburg
       Colourists. The Danish golden
       age, Dutch and Flemish painting
       and French Modernists are also
       represented. Pride of place is
       taken by Furstenbergska Galleriet,
       a copy of the gallery which the
       great patron of the arts had in
       his private palace in the late
       19th century. The neighbouring
       Konsthallen shows temporary
       exhibitions. The bronze lion on   Walkers and shoppers in Haga with its pleasant wooden houses
       the façade is by Palle Pernevi.
         Konserthuset on the south-  offering excellent views from   when rules set in 1854 banning
       western side of the square was   the top, up steep steps.  wooden houses in the centre
       designed by Nils Einar Eriksson         more than two storeys high
       and opened in 1935. The foyer is        were circumvented – with the
       decorated with murals by Prince   u Gamla Haga   governor’s approval. Providing
       Eugen (Grove of Memories) and   v 1, 3, 6, 9, 11. @ 60, 80, 760,    the building had a ground floor
       Otte Sköld (Folk Song) as well as   764, 765.  in brick, as these do, it could
       a large tapestry by Sven X-et           have two wooden floors above
       Erixson (Melodies in the Square).  The former working-class area   and not constitute a fire risk.
         Stadsteatern, built in 1934,   of the city south of Vallgraven
       reopened in 2002 after extensive   is one of the few places to
       renovation to highlight the    experience old Gothenburg.    i Feskekôrka
       best of Carl Bergsten’s elegant   The cobbled streets, courtyards   Rosenlundsvägen. v 1, 3, 6, 9, 11.
       1930s architecture.  and wood-and-stone houses of   @ 50, 60, 91. Open 10am–6pm Tue–
                           Gamla Haga are home to crafts-  Fri, 10am–3pm Sat. Closed public
                           people and lined with small   holidays. - 0 7
                           shops, cafés and restaurants.
                             Haga was Gothenburg’s    It is easy to see why the wits
                           first suburb as early as the    of Gothenburg nicknamed
                           17th century and was mainly   the fish market Feskekôrka
                           populated by harbour workers.   (the fish church). Victor von
                           During the industrialization    Gegerfelt borrowed from
                           of the 19th century a shanty   Gothic church architecture
                           town grew up here and tene-  when he designed this market
       Skansen Kronan fortress (1687) on guard   ments filled with people   hall in 1874, incorporating a
       high above Gothenburg  thronging in from the country-  steeply pitched roof and large
                           side to seek work.  oriel windows.
       y Skansen Kronan      In the 1960s and 70s Haga     The catch from the North
                           was fast becoming a slum and   Sea is brought here directly,
       Skansberget. v 1, 6. @ 60.
       Tel 031-711 30 33. Open 10am–3pm   threatened with demolition.   guaranteeing the freshest
       Tue–Fri. Closed public holidays. &   Widespread public opposition   mackerel and the most delicious
       8 pre-book. 7 limited access.   to the plans ensured that   shellfish. These days there is
       ∑ skansenkronan.se  important parts were saved and   more to the market than simply
                           the houses renovated. Some of   selling fish over the counter –
       Topped by a golden crown, the   the landshövdingehusen   the hall provides a colourful
       octagonal Skansen Kronan   (“county governor’s houses”)   setting for restaurant tables
       fortress dates from Sweden’s    typical of the area can be seen.   at which seafood specialities
       Age of Greatness (see pp42–3).    These were built in the 1880s,   can be sampled.
       It sits enthroned on the peak of
       Skansberget. Like its counterpart
       Skansen Lejonet, near the station
       area, Kronan is one of the most
       striking survivors of Erik
       Dahlbergh’s fortifications. It was
       built in 1687 to protect the city
       from attack from the south.
       During the 1850s it was used as
       a shelter for homeless citizens
       and has also been a prison.
         The fortress is surrounded
       by Skansberget, a leafy park   Feskekôrka fish market, a paradise for lovers of fish and seafood




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