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33 0 IT A LY
ITALY
TALY’S BEST places to stay two-star pensioni are truly
are often at the very excellent, run by hardworking
I cheap or the very owners: their hospitality and
expensive end of the cooking can be unique. For
spectrum. Many cities glamour, head for a top hotel in a
offer little in between, historic building – even if your
but away from urban budget restricts your stay to
centres the choice is wider. one night. Whether it’s in the
Often old farm estates in centre of Milan, deep in the
beautiful countryside have countryside, surrounded by
been restored to incorporate vineyards or on a fortified hill top,
guest accommodation. Some of the chances are it will be unforgettable.
Villa d’Este, Lake Como, page 343, a beautiful hotel with romantic grounds and a glittering interior
ITALY REGION score; and, of course, it has Slovenia and parts of France.
BY REGION its famous, luxury canalside Alpine-style chalet guest-
palazzi – at a price. houses with balconies full of
N THIS GUIDE, Italy has been Perhaps the most interesting geraniums, and dumplings on
Idivided into three areas: experiences are provided by the menu, are an incongruous
Northern Italy, Central Italy the small historic towns such feature in these parts.
and Southern Italy. as Ravenna, Bergamo and The Adriatic coastline is flat,
Parma, with their artistic and with grill-pan sunbathing and
Northern Italy architectural treasures, and genuinely warm hospitality.
This is the wealthiest part of hotels that exude bonhomie On the opposite side of the
the country. The business and serve up classic North country is the Ligurian
lunch and the corporate Italian cooking. But don’t Riviera. Here is the smart
weekend keep some very overlook the Italian lakes of resort of Portofino; the former
good hotels and restaurants Como, Orta and Maggiore: fishing village with its mini-
in business, from Milan – they have a wistful, old- scule harbour is for many
centre of the textile and fashioned appeal with one or travellers a must-see-and-be-
fashion trade – to Bologna, two absolutely glorious seen-at stopover. Its hotel
the medieval city at the heart grande dame hotels. prices are off the top end of
of Italy’s version of silicon The mountainous northern- the scale, but you can always
valley. Venice, sinking under most parts of Italy were visit for the day and then stay
the weight of its visitors, has acquired at the beginning of in nearby Santa Margherita or
a few good-value places to the 20th century, from what Rapallo, which offer much
stay, but only if you know the used to be southern Austria, better value.

