Page 332 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide: Great Places to Stay in Europe

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33 2 IT A LY

V Villa Franca, Positano, page 378 with great views of the plunging Amalfi coastline
Northern dishes tend to be other farm produce can be Lunch is generally from
pork, veal and dairy based, enjoyed in delightful, simple 12:30–3pm; dinner from
with creamy sauces. In the surroundings. 8–11pm or midnight, often
south, vegetables and fish A ristorante is usually quite a followed by a stroll around the
predominate, and many pasta formal place, with ranks of piazza, a coffee or a visit to a
dishes are accompanied by knives and forks and often a gelateria (ice-cream parlour).
‘raw’ sauces in which tom- business clientele. The more Dinner starts with antipasto
atoes, for example, are informal osteria serves regional (seafood salad, or a selection
sweated with garlic and oil for specialities, though the term is of salami), followed by il
just a few moments so that the being highjacked by smarter primo (pasta or a soup) and
freshness of the ingredients establishments. The birreria on to the main business of il
comes through. Among the (pubs) and vineria (wine bars) secondo (the meat or fish
many highlights of Italian often offer meat and local course). Vegetables (contorni)i
cooking are Milanese risotto, cheese-based snacks (a snack are ordered separately. Dessert
coloured by saffron and is a merenda). The most (dolci) usually comes from thei
flavoured with rosemary and enjoyable trattorie are the trolley. Most places make a
the juices from a veal roast; local, family-run places where cover charge (pane e coperto)((
and fresh mozzarella from the absence of a written menu, and may also add a 10 per
around Naples, which spills or a set menu with no choices, cent service charge. Take your
cream from its centre when is usually a sign that the food receipt (ricevuta fiscale) when
you cut into it. will be simple, but unpre- you leave the restaurant, or
For some of the best places tentious and delicious. you can be subject to an on-
for local delicacies, look out Space doesn’t permit more the-spot fine; this strange law
for the ‘Agriturismo‘ ’ signs, than a brief sketch of Italian was introduced as an attempt
usually a crossed knife and wine. Among the oustanding to cut down on tax evasion.
fork. Cheese, salami, regions are Tuscany (for
homemade pasta, honey and Brunello di Montalcino and BEDROOMSAND
Vino Nobile di Montepul- BATHROOMS
ciano); Friuli; and Le Langhe, a
little-known region of HE (potentiallY embar-
Piemonte in Northern Italy (for Trassing) Italian word for
the weighty Barolos and the a double bed is a matrim-
earthy Barberas). oniale. If you don’t specify
When eating out, most this, twin beds are auto-
Italians order a bottle with a matically allocated. However,
label only on special occas- you can ask for these to be
ions. The norm is to have a made up as a double if all the
carafe of house wine (usually matrimoniales are taken. Make
local and perfectly quaffable). it clear if you want a room
Ask for un quarto (quarter) or with en suite bathroom (con
Villa Franca, Positano, page 378 un mezzo (half) litre. bagno); there are differentoo