Page 155 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Pacific Northwest
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SEA T TLE  CENTER  AND  BELL T OWN      153


       Combining Richardsonian,   workers, and the right through   hottest art bar, with rotating
       Gothic, and Italianate design   the Prohibition period (1920–33),   exhibits by local artists adorning
       elements, the handsome    when it served as a cardroom   the walls. Each exhibition
       four-story brick structure was   and lunch spot.  is displayed for two months
       commissioned in 1888 by Austin    In the 1970s, the pub began   at a time.
       Americus Bell, the wealthy son    to attract an arty clientele, who     The pub is a good place to
       of Seattle pioneer William M. Bell,  joined the old-timers at the   sample a local microbrew from
       for whom Belltown is named.    long elegant bar. Over time the   of the 16 beers on tap (or even
       It was to be an apartment   local community has changed   try one from its good selection
       building and the young Bell’s   as low-income housing    of Belgian beers). It also has an
       first major building project in   was replaced by upmarket   excellent wine list and specialty
       the city. However, the 35-year-  condominiums, and the   cocktails. The brick-and-tile
       old entrepreneur did not live to    clientele altered accordingly.   Virginia Inn has something of
       see his building completed.   The Virginia Inn has now   a European feel to it – without
       Suffering from ill-health and   become known as Seattle’s   the cigarette fumes.
       depression, Bell took his own life
       in 1889. His wife saw the project
       through to completion, and had
       Bell’s name etched into the top
       of the building’s façade. Its
       interior was destroyed by fire in
       1981, but the exterior survived
       relatively unscathed.
         Listed on the National
       Register of Historic Places, the
       Austin A. Bell Building now
       houses pricey condominiums
       on its upper three floors and
       a coffee shop at street level.

                            A café-cum-laundry, one of Belltown’s many eclectic businesses
                            Belltown History
                            With its broad avenues lined with hip clubs, chic restaurants,
                             and eclectic shops, Belltown has been compared to Manhattan’s
                            Upper West Side. What Belltown conspicuously lacks is the one
                            thing for which the rest of the city is famous: hills. This was not
                            always the case. Originally home to a very steep slope, the area
                            took on a new identity between 1905 and 1930,
                            when Denny Hill was regraded and washed
                            into Elliott Bay. In all, more than 50 city blocks
                            were lowered by as much as 100 ft (30 m),
                            turning Denny Hill into the Denny Regrade, a
                            lackluster name for an unremarkable area of
                            town inhabited by labor union halls, car lots,
                            inexpensive apartments, and sailors’ taverns.
       The European-style Virginia Inn, a favorite   (Ironically, the intent of the regrade project
       pub among Belltown locals  was to encourage business development
       0 Virginia Inn       by making the area easier to navigate.)
                              For decades, the area’s identity was its very
       1937 1st Ave. Map 3 B1.    lack thereof. This began to change in the 1970s,   Belltown coffee
       Tel (206) 728-1937. @ 15, 18, 21, 22,   when artists, attracted by cheap rents and   shop sign
       56. Open 11:30am–midnight Sun–  abundant studio space, started moving to the
       Thu, 11:30am–2am Fri & Sat. 7 0   Regrade. It was also during the 1970s that a neighborhood
       ∑ virginiainnseattle.com  association renamed the area Belltown, after William M. Bell,
                            one of the area’s pioneers. By the 1980s, as Seattleites and
       Located on the southern   suburbanites began taking an interest in cosmopolitan urban living,
       boundary of Belltown, the   condominiums began appearing on Belltown’s periphery. Fueled
       Virginia Inn has been a popular   by the software boom of the 1990s, the area experienced a huge
       watering hole since before the   building boom, attracting well-paid high-tech types to its amenity-
       area came to be called Belltown.   rich towers. Although today Belltown bears little resemblance to its
       Established in 1903, it has   early days, a few original structures remain; among them, the Virginia
       operated continuously, first    Inn and the Austin A. Bell Building.
       as a beer parlor for waterfront




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