Page 37 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)

W
W I N E F O C U SI N E
are sourced from Mission Hill’s estate vine-
yards at the southern end of the valley.
British Columbia boasts nine Geographical
Indications under the VQA system. The
Okanagan Valley, a roughly five-hour drive
east of Vancouver, is the largest by far, com-
prising 84% of the region’s vineyard acreage.
Okanagan Lake is the major climatic influ-
ence, extending from the cooler northern
section of the valley almost to the semi-arid
southern end. Within this diverse backdrop
are a number of various microclimates.
The Okanagan Valley is farther north than
other Canadian wine regions and ranges in
elevation from about 300 to 2,000 feet, result-
ing in shorter growing seasons. Yet the long
days of sunlight deliver enough heat and light
to fully ripen the region’s mix of grapes. The Cave Spring managing partner Tom Pennachetti
most widely planted varieties are Pinot Gris
and Chardonnay for whites and Merlot and Pinot Noir for reds. Earlier-
ripening varieties succeed in the north, while the drier southern zone rooms, restaurants and other amenities. In addition to trying the many
is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, among other red grapes.
Von Mandl’s Martin’s Lane, which owns four vineyards around Okana-
gan Lake, is one producer showcasing the outstanding quality the region
is capable of. Specializing in Pinot Noir and Riesling, the winery made wines of Canada.
BRUCE SANDERSON’S RECOMMENDED WINES FROM CANADA
More than 100 wines were reviewed for this report. A free alphabetical list is available at WineSpectator.com/CanadaAlpha022920.
WineSpectator.com members can access complete reviews using the online Wine Ratings search.
WINE SCORE PRICE
CAVE SPRING Riesling Niagara Peninsula Icewine 2017 93 $60
Floral, apricot, lanolin and white pepper flavors lead to honey details
in this balanced sweetie, showing fine cut and length.
MISSION HILL Oculus Okanagan Valley 2016 93 $100
Ripe, polished and complex, with black cherry, blackberry, cedar, tar
and toasty oak flavors. Balanced and dense. Merlot blend.
CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES Vidal Niagara-On-The-Lake 92 $48
Icewine 2017 375ml
This plush and creamy dessert wine is full of apricot, butterscotch,
orange peel and vanilla cream flavors, offset by bracing acidity.
FLAT ROCK CELLARS Gravity Twenty Mile Bench 2015 92 $35
Silky yet structured, this opulent red shows saturated flavors of black
cherry, blackberry, currant, graphite and spice. Pinot Noir.
MARTIN’S LANE Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley 92 $80
Simes Vineyard 2015
A suave red, offering pure black cherry and black currant flavors.
Dense and concentrated, with fine harmony, complexity and length.
MISSION HILL Quatrain Okanagan Valley 2016 92 $50
Suave and harmonious, with plenty of bass notes in the form of dark
plum, blackberry, loamy earth and smoky oak flavors. Syrah blend.
PELLER ESTATES Riesling Niagara Peninsula Icewine 2017 92 $85
Jasmine, honey, apricot and lime flavors run along the racy structure
in this laserlike dessert wine. Complex and compact.
REIF ESTATE Vidal Niagara River Icewine 92 $80
Grand Reserve 2017 375ml
Broad and creamy, with fine cut to the butterscotch, peach cobbler
STEVEN ELPHICK and lanolin flavors. Beautifully balanced and racy.
F O C U S
three 90-plus Pinots from 2015—the Simes
Vineyard (92, $80), Naramata Ranch Vineyard
(91, $80) and Dehart Vineyard (90, $80).
“Our climate of course has a big influence
in the quality of the best Okanagan Pinots,”
says winemaker Shane Munn. “Essentially, the
large and very deep lake makes this possible,
moderating the temperature fluctuations we
can encounter. The difference between the
east vs. west side of the lake is also crucial—
the early morning sun that vineyards on the
west side capture is often responsible for wines
of greater power, in both fruit and structure.
Aspect—whether on either the east or west
side of the lake—is also one of the key attri-
butes to retaining the elegance in either vari-
ety. Sites facing between west to north yield
the wines of greatest finesse, in my opinion.”
Today, there are 175 wineries in the Okana-
gan Valley and another 170 in Ontario. Most wineries have tasting
delicious wines in this report, visiting these wine regions firsthand is a
great way to experience all that Canada offers for wine lovers.
Senior editor Bruce Sanderson is Wine Spectator’s lead taster on the
WINE SCORE PRICE
STRATUS Riesling Niagara-On-The-Lake Icewine 2017 92 $75
375ml This perfumed, floral-scented white boasts apricot, apple and orange
peel flavors. Elegant, pure and vibrant, with a mouthwatering finish.
BURROWING OWL Cabernet Sauvignon 91 $39
Okanagan Valley 2015
Black currant, blackberry, cedar, licorice and tobacco notes mesh with
the rich yet firmly structured profile in this fresh red.
CHECKMATE ARTISANAL WINERY Fool’s Mate 91 $75
Okanagan Valley 2015
A bit of a chameleon, starting out soft and finishing with zip and grip,
with the flavors supported by bright acidity. Chardonnay.
INNISKILLIN Vidal Niagara Peninsula Ice Wine Gold 2017 91 $80
A creamy dessert wine, featuring vanilla-tinged apricot, baked apple, 375ml
lemon cream and lanolin flavors, underlined by bracing acidity.
MEYER FAMILY VINEYARDS Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley 91 $40
McLean Creek Road Vineyard 2017
This red has a racy feel, driving the cherry, currant and licorice flavors.
Stays firm and taut, showing fine balance and persistence.
CEDAR CREEK Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley 90 $42
Platinum Block 4 2016
Black cherry, black currant and blueberry fruit shows smoky oak, flint
and licorice accents in this sleek, intense red. Supple and vibrant.
375ml
CLOSSON CHASE Chardonnay Prince Edward County 90 $53
Grand Cuvée 2017
A ripe style, offering tropical notes of pineapple, butter and baking
spice. Plush, lingering with a hint of grapefruit peel.
JAN. 31 – FEB. 29, 2020 • WINE SPECTATOR 33