Page 237 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Paris

FUR THER AFIELD  235

18th-century furniture, and the covered market on
tapestries, paintings and other Rue Lemercier, which dates
precious objects. The museum back to 1846. At weekends,
has been faithfully and lovingly families converge on the
restored to recreate an area’s several parks, the two
aristocratic town house of the largest being the Square des
Louis XV and Louis XVI eras. Batignolles and the Parc Clichy –
In the museum, there are Martin Luther King, which
Savonnerie carpets, Beauvais features playgrounds, duck
tapestries and the Buffon ponds, a skate park and running
service (Sèvres porcelain). trails. The area had been
The very latest gadgets, for earmarked to be the Olympic
the period, are now displayed Village during the bid for the
in the restored kitchen and 2012 Games, which Paris lost
service quarters, equipped to London. The district has
with the utmost efficiency, undergone substantial
taste and forethought by The magnificent carved altarpiece in the development since then, and
their owner. church of Sainte-Marie des Batignolles there are new apartments,
shops and office buildings.
5 Batignolles
4 Musée Cernuschi Batignolles, 75007. q Porte de Clichy, 6 Musée Gustave
7 Ave Vélasquez 75008. Map 5 A3. Place de Clichy. Moreau
Tel 01 53 96 21 50. q Villiers, Formerly used as a royal hunting
Monceau. Open 10am–6pm ground, this neighbourhood in 14 Rue de la Rochefoucauld 75009.
Tue–Sun (last adm: 5:30pm). Map 6 E3. Tel 01 48 74 38 50.
Closed public hols. 9 8 = the 17th arrondissement of q Trinité. Open 10am–12:45pm,
∑ cernuschi.paris.fr northwestern Paris later 2–5:15pm Mon, Wed, Thu, 10am–
grew into a small hamlet. 5:15pm Fri–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
One of the oldest Although it officially 25 Dec. & = ∑ musee-moreau.fr
museums in Paris, the became part of the city
Cernuschi is housed in the second half of the The Symbolist painter Gustave
in a splendid, light- 19th century, it still Moreau (1825–98), known
filled mansion near feels like a small for his vivid, imagin ative
Parc Mon ceau French village inside works depicting biblical and
and contains an cosmopolitan Paris. mythological fantasies, left
intrigu ing private In the 19th century, to the French state a vast
collection of late the area had a lively collection of more than
East Asian art, cultural vibe and 1,000 oils, watercolours
which was counted among and some 4,000 drawings
amassed by the its residents the in his town house. One of
Milanese-born painter Edouard Moreau’s best-known and
politi cian and Manet and his most outstanding works, Jupiter
banker Enrico fellow artists, and Semele, can be seen here.
Cernuschi (1821– who became There is also a superb collection
96). The original Bodhisattva in the known as the of his unfinished sketches.
bequest of 5,000 Musée Cernuschi Groupe des
lacquered, ceramic, Batignolles, the
bronze and ivory items writer Emile Zola and, later, the
has been augmented by a Belgian singer Jacques Brel.
number of donations and The lovely Church of Sainte-
acquisitions over the years. Marie des Batignolles sits in the
The wide-ranging collection, heart of the neighbourhood.
now about 10,000 items, While Batignolles has a calm,
includes a 5th-century seated community feel, it also has a
Bodhisattva (Buddhist divine slightly urban atmosphere,
being) from Yunkang; La Tigresse with a good mix of lively
(a heavily decorated Shang bars, stylish boutiques and
Dynasty bronze vase dating restaurants. It was one of the
from the 12th century BC); first areas in Paris to label their
and Horses and Grooms, an new class of residents bobos, or
8th-century T’ang painting bourgeois bohemians.
on silk attributed to the era’s Two markets are held in the
greatest horse painter, court area: the organic Marché Angel Traveller by Gustave Moreau, in the
artist Han Kan. Biologique des Batignolles Musée Gustave Moreau

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