Page 238 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Paris
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236      P ARIS  AREA  B Y  AREA


       7 Portes St-Denis
       et St-Martin
       Blvds St-Denis & St-Martin 75010.
       Map 7 B5, C5. q Strasbourg-St-Denis.
       These imposing gates give
       access to the two ancient
       and important thoroughfares
       whose names they bear,
       running across Paris in a
       north–south direction. They
       once marked the entrance
       to the city. The Porte St-Denis
       is 23 m (76 ft) high and was
       built in 1672 by François
       Blondel. It is decorated
       with figures by Louis XIV’s   Western arch of the Porte St-Denis, once the entrance to the city
       sculptor, François Girardon.
       The gates commemorate   Napoleon III’s many projects    0 Belleville and
       victories of the king’s armies    to renovate the city (see pp36–  Ménilmontant
       in Flanders and the Rhine    7). Baron Haussmann worked
       that year. Porte St-Martin    with the landscape architect/  75011, 75012, 75019, 75020.
       is 17 m (56 ft) tall and was    designer Adolphe Alphand, who   Le Food Market: Blvd de Belleville.
       built in 1674 by Pierre Bullet.    organized a vast programme    q Couronnes, Ménilmontant.
       It celebrates Besançon’s   to furnish the new pavement-  Open 6pm–10:30pm one Thu per
                                               month. ∑ lefoodmarket.fr
       capture and the defeat of    lined avenues with benches   Edith Piaf Museum: 5 Rue Crespin-
       the Triple Alliance of Spain,   and lampposts. Others involved   du-Gast. Tel 01 43 55 52 72.
       Holland and Germany.  in the creation of this large park   q Ménilmontant. Open by
                           were the engineer Darcel and   appointment only, 1–6pm Mon–Wed.
       8 Parc des Buttes-  the landscape gardener Barillet-
       Chaumont            Deschamps. They created a   Originally two separate villages
                                               on the outskirts of the capital,
                           lake, made an island with real
       Rue Manin 75019 (main access from   and artificial rocks, gave it a   the neighbourhoods of
       Rue Armand Carrel). q Botzaris,   Roman-style temple (the   Belleville and Ménilmontant
       Buttes-Chaumont. Open 7am–8pm   Temple de la Sibylle, modelled   now share four different
       daily (open 24 hrs in summer).  8 0   after the Temple of Sybil in   arrondissements in Paris: the
       See pp272–3.        Tivoli, Italy) and added a   11th, 12th, 19th and 20th. In
                           waterfall, streams, two foot-  the past, the local population
       For many, this is the most   bridges leading to the island   tended to be mainly working
       pleasant and unexpected park   and beaches. Today, visitors    class and multi-ethnic – a
       in the city. The panoramic hilly   will also find boating facilities   combination of Chinese,
       site was formerly a gallows for   and donkey rides.  North African and Jewish.
       the execution of criminals, a           Nowadays, although both
       lime quarry and a rubbish   9 Parc de la Villette   quarters remain diverse, they
       dump. It was converted in               have proved popular with
       the mid-1860s, one of   See pp238–41.   young professionals, who
                                               have moved in looking for
                                               affordable rents, a lively
                                               nightlife, organic markets
                                               and a dynamic arts scene.
                                               This delightful mix of
                                               inexpensive and sophisticated
                                               has contributed to creating
                                               a modern but charming
                                               neighbourhood. Food-wise,
                                               Belleville is known as the
                                               second Chinatown, rivalling
                                               the one in the 13th
                                               arrondissement, with many
                                               authentic restaurants and a
                                               Chinese New Year’s parade. The
                                               hip monthly Le Food Market
       The Temple de la Sibylle, high above the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont  has sprung up in Ménilmontant,




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