Page 8 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary
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6      HOW  T O   USE  THIS   GUIDE                                                                    HOW  T O   USE  THIS   GUIDE      7
                                                                                   HUNGAR Y  REGION  B Y  REGION      133
       HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE                                                AROUND                 Introduction The   Hungary Region by Region
                                                                            BUDAPEST
                                                                            Strategically sited castles and vast cathedrals,   1landscape, history and
                                                                            including Hungary’s largest, look out over the   The coloured areas shown on the
                                                                            pleasure boats navigating the Danube Bend. The    character of each region
       This travel guide helps you get the most   Region by Region section, which covers    unique evening sunlight here has always attracted artists to the region,    are portrayed here, with a   map on the book’s inside front
                                                                            and evidence of a rich cultural heritage is everywhere. Gödöllő boasts
                                                                            the stunning Royal Palace, while the Duna-Ipoly National Park offers
       from your visit to Hungary, providing   all the important towns, cities and places   a superb habitat for native wildlife.  description of how the   cover show the five main sight­
                                                                            With its darting twists and turns, steep   seeking respite today are the thousands
       detailed practical information as well as   around the country, with photographs,   banks and deep valleys, the Danube    of Budapest residents who keep holiday   area has developed over   seeing regions into which Hungary
                                                                            Bend has been a site of refuge for almost
                                                                                    homes in the area, and the legions of
                                                                            2,000 years. Rome built garrisons here, and  visitors on short trips from the capital –
                                                                            there are remnants of that great empire   a fact that is reflected in local prices.  the centuries and what it   has been divided. Each is covered
       expert recommendations. Introducing   maps and illustrations. Details of hotels,   everywhere. The natural fortress that is the   of the Börzsöny and the Duna-Ipoly   offers the visitor today.  in a full chapter in Hungary Region
                                                                                    Over on the east bank the rolling hills
                                                                            Danube’s west bank was later the chosen
                                                                                    National Park – home to more than
                                                                            site for the construction of the historic
       Hungary maps the whole country and sets    restaurants, shops and markets, entertain-  towns of Visegrád and Esztergom, both   half of Hungary’s native bird species –
                                                                            built with protection and defence in mind.  make for sensational hiking, walking
                                                                            Esztergom was the scene of the Hungarian  and birdwatching.
                                                                            conversion to Christianity, and Visegrád   This is perhaps the most cosmopolitan   by Region (see pp128–259). The most
       it in its historical and cultural context.    ment and sports are found in Travellers’   was the impenetrable seat of royal power.   part of Hungary, where visitors can expect   interesting towns and places to visit
                                                                                    warm, welcoming and multilingual hosts,
                                                                            Later still came Szentendre, which, like
                                                                                    but in summer it can be very hot and busy.
                                                                            Ráckeve to the south of the capital, was
                                                                                    As autumn usually brings plenty of rain and
                                                                            founded by Serbs fleeing persecution at
       The first section, on Budapest, gives an   Needs, while the Survival Guide contains   home and, though few Serbs remain,   winter can be very cold, the early spring –   have been numbered on Regional
                                                                            traces of their culture and their religion
                                                                                    March, April and May – may be the best
                                                                            are evident everywhere. Those who come   time for exploring these historic places.
       overview of the capital’s main attractions.   advice on everything from medical services                     Maps throughout the book.
       Hungary’s regions are charted in the    and public transport to personal safety.
                                                                               134      HUNGAR Y  REGION  B Y  REGION  AROUND  BUD APEST      135
                                                                               Exploring Around Budapest  Sights at a Glance
                                                                               The countryside and villages around Budapest have always   1 Ráckeve
                                                                                                 2 Ócsa
                                                                               been a major draw for visitors to the capital. To the north is   3 Gödöllő p136 & pp138–9
                                                                               the Danube Bend (Dunakanyar), and in the middle of it the   4 Vácrátót
                                                                                                 5 Vác
                                                                               art-loving village of Szen tendre. Further upriver are the
       Budapest Area by Area         BUD APEST  AREA  B Y  AREA      95       Baroque town of Vác and Hungary’s most sacred city,   6 Szentendre pp142–4
                                                                                                 7 Visegrád
                                                                               Esztergom. Beyond, the Duna-Ipoly National Park offers
                                                                               countless hiking and nature trails. The Royal Mansion in
                                                                            Magnificent frescoes in the Serbian Orthodox Church in Ráckeve  DUNA-IPOLY   8 Zebegény    Regional Map This shows
                                                                                                 9 Nagybörzsöny & Duna-Ipoly
                                                                               Gödöllő to the east is worth seeing, and south of
                                                                                                 National Park
                             CENTRAL PEST                                    Statue of István, the first Hungarian king, at Esztergom – the site of his coronation  NAGYBÖRZSÖNY NATIONAL PARK   0 Esztergom pp146–9
                                                                               Budapest are the pretty town of Ráckeve and the Ócsa
       Budapest has been divided   At the end of the 17th century much of Pest   most prominent example of this work is the    Area Map For easy   Nature Reserve, a unique habitat of reedy bogs.  2the road network and gives
                             was in ruins and few residents remained.
                                     Hungarian National Museum. At this time
       into four central areas and    Within the next decades, however, new   Pest surpassed Buda as a centre for trade and   1reference, the sights in   ESZTERGOM ZEBEGÉNY  VISEGRÁD  VÁC Kosd  The Royal Palace in Gödöllő, built by Count Antal Grassalkovich  an illustrated overvi
                             residential districts were established – today’s  industry. This was partly due to the Jewish
                             midtown suburbs. In the 19th century,
                                     community, who actively helped develop the
       a Further Afield section.    redevelopment schemes introduced grand   area. Today it combines commerce and culture   each area are numbered   Dorog Komárom  SZENTENDRE Leányfalu  Göd  VÁCRÁTÓT  Debrecen  the whole region. The most
                                     with beautiful architecture, elegant shopping
                             houses and apartment blocks, as well as
                                     arcades and plentiful cafés and restaurants.
                             secular and municipal buildings. Perhaps the
       Each area is described in an   Sights at a Glance  Churches and Synagogues  and plotted on a map.   Pilisvörösvar  Pomáz  Dunakeszi  Veresegyház  Aszód  Key      Motorway  interesting places to visit
                             Museums
                                                                                                           Major road
       individual section, giving the   q Museum of Applied Arts   6 Inner City Parish Church   ARADI U. CSENGERY U. HUNYAGI Vörösmarty  Sights in the city centre   Beautiful waterlilies in the marshes around Ócsa  Zsámbék  Solymár  Duna (Danub e)   Csömör Fót  Kerepes  GÖDÖLLŐ
                             w Hungarian National Museum
                                  9 University Church
                              pp102–3
                                                                                                           Secondary road
                                  e Great Synagogue
                                          utca
                             i House of Terror Museum
                                                                                                           Minor road
                                  Streets and Squares
       names of all main sights and   Historic Buildings    1 Vigadó Square    ANDRÁSSY ÚT.  Oktogon  TÉR KIRÁLY U.  are also shown on the   Getting Around  Győr  Budakeszi  Kistarcsa  Pécel  Isaszeg  Jászberény           Main railway  are also useful tips on
                                                                                                           Minor railway
                                  2 Mihály Vörösmarty Square
                             and Monuments
                                                                               Budapest has an international airport, and from here
                             3 Turkish Bank
                                  5 Váci Street
                                                                                                           International border
                                                                               destinations such as Szentendre, Gödöllő and Ócsa are
                                  r Jewish Quarter
                             4 Pest County Hall
                                                                               best reached by train, on the Budapest sub urban rail
                                                                                                           Regional border
       attractions. The sights are   7 Klotild Palaces   VASVÁRY P. U. Opera  KIRÁLY U.  ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT  Budapest Street Finder   network (HÉV, see p310). Other sightseeing areas can be   Biatorbágy  Törökbálint  Budaörs  BUDAPEST  Vecsés  Gyömrő  Sülysáp  getting around the regi
                             8 City Council Chamber
                                                                               visited by train or car. During the summer months, the
                             0 Ervin Szabó Library
                                                                               most relaxing way to reach the Danube Bend is by Mahart
                             t New York Palace
                                                                               Passnave motor boat, departing north wards from Vigadó
       numbered on the area map.  y Liszt Academy of Music   ANDRÁSSY ÚT. PAULAY EDE U. KIRÁLY U.  KAZINCZY U.  KIS DIÓFA U.  CSÁNYI U. KLAUZÁL TÉR  KERTÉSZ U.  on pages 122–7.  tér in Buda pest. Services run to Esztergom and stop at   fehérvár  Érd  Szigetszent- miklós  Gyál  Ül
                             u New Theatre
                                                                               most towns along the way. Other services go to
                                                                                         Székes-
                                     Bajcsy-
                                                                               Szentendre and Vác.
                                     Zs.út
                               Széchenyi Lánchíd  EÖTVÖS  JÓZSEF ATTILA U.  ERZSÉBET TÉR  HOLLÓ U.  DOB U. ERZSÉBETVÁROS  Szigethalom
                                TÉR  JÓZSEF NÁDOR  Deák                                    Százhalom-
                                  TÉR  Ferenc tér  Blaha                                   batta
                                Vörösmarty  HARMINCAD U.  DOB U.  WESSELÉNYI U.  NAGY DIÓFA U.  KLAUZÁL U.  AKÁCFA U.  Lujza Tér
                                 tér  KÁROLY KÖRÚT RUMBACH S. U.  BLAHA LUJZA                Dunavarsány  ÓCSA  Inárcs  Szolnok
                                  DEÁK FERENC U. VÁCI U.  VÁROSHÁZ U. GERLÓCZY U.  SÍP U.  RÁKÓCZI ÚT. DOHÁNY U.  STÁHLY U. TÉR  Ercsi  Ráckevei-Duna    PEST
                                Da n u be
                                  RÉGIPOSTA U.  PETÕFI S. U.  KOSSUTH L. U.  Astoria  SZENTKIRÁLYI U.  VAS U.  GYULAI PÁL U.  SOMOGYI BÉLA U.  JÓZSEF KÖRÚT  Kiskunlacháza  Bugyi  Újhartyán
                                 APÁCZAI U.
                                  PESTI B. U. SZABAD SAJTÓ ÚT.  Ferenciek  MÚZEU  BRÓDY SÁNDOR U.  Rákóczi tér TÉR  RÁCKEVE  Dabas  Kecskemét
                                JANE HANING RAKPART
                                           GUTENBERG
                                     tere
                                        PUSKIN U.
                                   DUNA U.
              Sights at a glance   Erzsébet híd  BELVÁROS  VERES PÁLNÉ U.     KÁROLYI  U. FERENCZY I. U. M KÖRÚT MAGYAR U. KÁLVIN  MÚZEUM U.  HORÁNSZKY U.  KRÚDY U. MÁRIA U.  A locator map shows at a   Dömsöd
             lists the buildings in   MOLNÁR U.  VÁCI U.  SZERB U.  KIRÁLYI PÁL U.  TÉR  Kálvin tér  BAROSS U. MÁRIA U.  JÓZSEF KÖRÚT  glance where you are in   Dunaúj-  Kalocsa  0 kilometres  10  10
                                                                                            város
                                                                                                  0 miles
              a particular area by   See also Street Finder    Fővám tér  FŐVÁM TÉR  VÁMHÁZ KRT  LÓNYAY U.  RÁDAY U.  IX Ü L LÕ I   Ú T  relation to the city plan.  Inside Esztergom Basilica, centre of Catholicism in Hungary  166      HUNGAR For additional keys to symbols see ba
                                                                                                         A statue of Justice, crowning the Baroque
                                                                                                         town hall in Vác Y  REGION  B Y  REGION
                                                                               For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
                             maps 2 & 4
                  category.           CSARNOK TÉR  KINIZSI U.  KNÉZITS U. Corvin Negyed                          collection of ecclesiastical    family, who bought the town in
                                                                                                                 art. Another room contains
                                                                                                                         1534. Patriarch Tamás Nádasdy
                                 0 metres  400  D a n u b e KÖZRAKTÁR U.  RÁDAY U.                               a series of frescoes by István   brought in Italian architects to
                                                                                                                         create a genuine Renais sance
                                                                                                                 Dorfmeister based on life in
                                 0 yards  400  LÓ N YAY   U .  FERENC  KÖRÚT        Each region of Hungary can   ancient Savaria.  master piece, which, with
                                                                                                                   A short walk from the
                                                                                                                         various additions, survives more
                                                                                                                 the main centre of the city
                                                                                                                           Much of the castle is given
                                 96      BUD APEST  AREA  B Y  AREA  CENTR AL  PEST      97  be quickly identified using   cathedral is Fő tér, today    or less intact to the present day.
                                                                                                                         over to the Ferenc Nádasdy
                                                                                                                 and a shopper’s paradise that
                              Ornate façade on Váci Street, which like much of central Pest is pedestrianized  For keys to map symbols see back flap  is popular with mothers and   Museum, the highlight of which
                                                                                                                         are two series of frescoes:
                                                                                                                 children. There are further
                                 Street-by-Street: Around Váci Street  AROUND         the colour coding on the   Roman ruins at the Iseum Ruin   17th-century works showing
                                                                                                                 Garden on Batthány tér, featuring
                                                                                                                         the Hungarians in battle with
                                                              PARLIAMENT
               A suggested route for a   The northern section of Váci Street has been Budapest’s fashionable   CENTRAL  inside front cover.  a temple to the goddess Isis,   the Turks and scenes from the
                                                                                                                         Old Testa ment painted by István
                                                                                                                 believed to be one of only three
                                 area for walking, meeting in cafés and shopping in elegant boutiques
                                                                                                                         Dorfmeister in 1769. There are
                                                                                                                 ever found in Europe. Next door
                 walk is shown in red.  since the early 19th century. Its attractive promenade is an enjoyable   GELLÉRT   PEST  The impressive hilltop Benedictine abbey church in Ják  is the Szombathely Gallery. In   also exhibitions of the family’s   One of the outdoor pools at
                                 place for a stroll in the evening, when it is stylishly illuminated.
                                                                                                                 May, when more than 50 kinds
                                                                                                                         and town’s histories, regional
                                                              HILL AND
                                                                                                                         folk art and period furniture.
                                                                                                                 of rhodo dendron are in full
                                                              TABÁN
                                 Gerbeaud Cukrászda           Locator Map Danube                       w Ják   e Szombathely   bloom, the Kámoni Arbor etum   The castle is reached via a long   t Bük   disorders, and the grounds are
                                                                                                                         stone bridge over what was
                                 is one of the best           See Street Finder map 4                  12 km (7 miles) south of Szom bathely.   101 km (60 miles) southwest of Győr.
                                                                                                                 north of the city centre is well
                                 patisseries in town.                                                  Road Map A4. * 2,400. @ from   Road Map A3. * 115,000. £ from   worth a visit.  once a moat.  24km (15 miles) northeast of Szom-  well laid out with grassy areas,
                                                                                                       Szombathely.  Sopron, Győr. @ from Zalaergeszeg.     In 1961, during a search for   bathely. Road Map A3. * 3,100.    children’s play grounds, snack
                                                                                                            n Tourinform, Király utca 1/A, (94) 31   oil (see below), hot springs    £ from Szombathely, Sopron. @   bars and restaurants. A fair-sized
                                                                                                       The Benedictine St George’s   72 69. _ Bartók Classical Music   (44 °C/111 °F) were found in   from Szombathely. n Tourinform,   resort has also grown up around
                                            Holy Figures adorn the                                     Abbey Church (Jáki Szent   Festival (Jul); Savaria Carnival (Aug).  Sárvár, and the Sárvár Spa    Eötvös utca 11, (94) 55 84 19.  the pool complex, and the
                                 Vigadó  concert   D O R O T T Y A   U  19th-century façade of the   5 . Váci Street   Detailed information All the   György Bence’s Apátsági   Founded by the Romans in    and Wellness Centre is now   Thermal springs were dis covered   Greenfield H
                                                   Budapest’s most elegant promenade and shopping area is lined with
          Street-by-Street Map This   hall    3 Turkish   fashion boutiques, cafés, fountains and statues. Off the street there    and most impressive example    AD 43, and known as Savaria,   plexes and, after its renovation   at this village near the Austrian   the thermal bath
                                                                                                                                   (see p293), a short walk from
                                            Baroque Servite Church.
                                                                                                       Templom) is the best-preserved
                                                                                                                         one of the largest bath com-
                                                   are old courtyards and shopping arcades.
                                                                                                                              border in 1956 during a search
                                                                                                            Szombathely was an important
                                                                                                       of Romanesque archi tecture in
                                                                                                                         and extension, the most mod-
                                                                                                                                   Hungary’s finest golfing centre.
                                                                                                                         indoor and outdoor pools,
                                                                                                                              Health and Adventure Centre
                                                                                                                                   Hungary to have hosted a
                                                                                                       twin-towered master piece,
                                                                                                            the “Amber Road” from the
       2bird’s-eye view shows the heart of   V I G A D Ó   U  Bank   Párizsi Udvar is found on the   3important towns and other   Hungary. Built in 1214–56, this   trading and staging post on    ern in Hungary. It comprises   for oil. Since then the Bükfürdő   It is the only 18-h
                                                                                                                                   professional golf tournament.
                                                                                                            Baltic Sea to Italy. Every August
                                                                                                                         leisure and splash pools, a
                                                                                                       influenced by late Norman
                                                                                                                              has grown to become one of
                                                                                                                         sauna and a treatment centre
                                                                                                       architecture, sits imposingly on
                                                                                 places to visit are described
                                                                                                            the Savaria Carnival recreates
                                                                                                                              Hungary’s largest, and most
                                                         corner of Kígyó utca and Petőfi
                                                                                                                                    Bük Medicinal Baths
                                                                                                            those ancient days, and
                                                                                                                              attractive medicinal bath
                                                                                                       a hilltop above the village. The
                                                                                                                         offering various therapies.
                                                         Sándor utca. The arcade,
         each sightseeing area. The sights   D E Á K   F E R E N C   U  currently closed for renovation,   individually. They are listed in   western façade is worthy of note   hundreds of volunteers don   E Ferenc Nádasdy Museum  complexes. There are 32 indoor   Termál körút 2.
                                                                                                                                   Open winter: 8:30am–6pm daily;
                                                                                                                              and outdoor pools of various sizes
                                                                                                       with its recessed doorway, a
                                                                                                            Roman costumes and engage
                                                         is set to become a hotel with
                                                                                                       richly decorated portal featuring
                                                                                                                         Várkerület 1. Tel (95) 32 01 58.
                                                                                                                                   summer: 8:30am–7:30pm daily.
                                                                                                            in battles, dancing and music.
                                                                                                                              and temp eratures, offering treat-
                                                          shops downstairs.
                                                                                                                         Open Jul–Aug: 9am–9pm; Sep–Jun:
         carry the same numbers here as                                          order, following the numbering   almost life-size carvings of Jesus   The remains of the once-vast   Szombathely Cathedral, Hungary’s largest   9am–5pm. & 8  ments for a variety of different   & 7
                                                                                                            Roman Forum (Savaria was
                                                                                                       and the Apostles. This style,
                                                                                                                 Baroque church
                                                                                                            the capital of Roman Pannonia
                                                                                                       called the Porta Speciosa
                                                                                                                              Oil and Water
                                                                                                                          Sárvár Spa and Wellness
                                                                                                              Superior) are among
                                                                                                       technique, was refined here
                                                                                                                         Centre
         on the area map and the fuller      V Á C I   U T C A                   on the Regional Map. Each entry   before becoming a model    the city’s leading   r Sárvár   Vadkert utca 1. Tel (95) 52 36 00.   Many of the largest thermal
                                                                                                       for Roman esque
                                                                                                                         Open 8am–10pm daily. & 7
                                                                                                              sights, with mosaic
                                                                                                                              bath complexes in Hungary,
                                                                                                                              such as those at Bük and
                                                                                                       churches all over
                                                                                                              floors and the
                                                                                                                 25 km (16 miles) east of Szom bathely.
                                                                                                       Hungary. Inside the
                                                                                                              public baths clearly
                                                                                                                              Sárvár, have only been in
                                                                                                                 Road Map A3. * 15,000. £ from
         description on subsequent pages.          P A R I Z S I   U                                   church are original   visible. There is   Szombathely. @ from Szombathely.   existence since the latter
                                                                                                       14th-century
                                                                                                                              part of the 20th century,
                                                                                                              more Roman
                                                                                                                 n Tourinform, Várkerület 33, (95) 52
                                                                                                                              when the thermal springs
                                                                                                              treasure on show
                                                                                                       frescoes showing
                                                                                                                 01 78).
                                 2 Mihály Vörösmarty Square                      has details of the main sights.  the church’s   at the Savaria   that serve them were
                                                                                                                              found during oil searches.
                                 A Carrara marble monument    R É G I P O S T A   U T C A              founder, Jáki Nagy   Detail on the portal of the   Museum. Standing   The Magyars built an earth   Desperate to fuel its
                                 to the poet Mihály Vörösmarty                                         Márton, and his   Benedictine abbey in Ják  next to the ruins is   castle (sárvár translates quite   industrialization, Hungary’s
                                 stands in this square. The statue                                     family. The church   the city’s cathedral,   literally as “mud castle”) here in   Communist government
                                 was created by Ede Telcs and   V Á C I   U T C A                      was fully restored in 1890    Hungary’s largest Baroque   the 10th century. Long before   hoped that the discovery of
                                 symbolizes the Hungarian                                              by Frigyes Schulek, who also   church, built in 1791–4. Its   that it appears the Romans    the Nagylengyel oil field in
                                 nation united in the poet’s   K I G Y Ó   U  7 . Klotild Palaces      restored the Mátyás Church    interior suffered great damage   had some fortifications here,   the west of the country in   Indoor thermal baths in Sárvár
                                 words: “Your homeland,     These beautifully decorated twin buildings,   in Buda  pest (see pp66–7). The   during World War II and is   and even the Celts found this   1951 would be the first of
                                 Hungary, serve unwave ringly”.  designed as elegant apartment blocks in    tiny St Jakab Chapel opposite   undergoing continuous resto-  confluence of the Rába river a   many oil strikes in the region. Vast sums of money were spent
                                                            the Historicist style, flank each side of the   was built in 1260 for the use    ration work. However, it is open   sound defensive position. The   foraging for oil, though all that was found was what became known
                                                             approach to the Elizabeth Bridge.
                                                                                                       of non-monastic villagers.  to the public. Next to it is the   Sárvár Castle that now attracts   as “white gold”: thermal water. Some small deposits of crude oil
                                                                                                            Bishop’s Palace, an attractive   visitors is far from the mud of   were eventually located, but although Hungary does produce
                                      Thonet House was built in 1888–                                  R St George’s Abbey Church  Rococo building whose Sala   yore, how ever, having been   oil (Zalaegerszeg is the centre of the industry; see p162), domestic
                                                                                                       Fő tér. Tel (94) 35 60 14. Open 8am–
                                                                                                                              production accounts for less than 10 per cent of consumption.
                                      90 by Ödön Lechner (see p87) and                                 6pm daily. 7  Terrena houses the Dio cesan   built in the 16th century. Its   The Knights Hall in Sárvár Castle, with
                                      Gyula Pártos. The building stands                                     Museum, which has a fine   patrons were the Nádasdy   superb battle frescoes
                                      today in its original form, featuring   P E S T I   U  0 metres  50  For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
                                      Zsolnay ceramics from Pécs.
        114      BUD APEST  AREA  B Y  AREA  FUR THER  AFIELD      115  0 yards  50  Key  180      HUNGAR Y  REGION  B Y  REGION  NOR THERN  TR ANSD ANUBIA      181
                                                               Suggested route
                                     Péterffy Palace, now the Százéves
                  community. At the end of    e Buda Hills                     h Pannonhalma Abbey    Cloister  VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
                                     Étterem, is one of Pest’s few
                  the 19th century, nearly a   Budai-hegység remaining Baroque mansions. Built   Remains of Contra   The story of Pannonhalma Abbey is as old as   Basilica  Late Gothic vaulting in the
                                                                                                      cloister was added during
                                             Aquincum
                                     by András Mayerhoffer in 1755 for
                  quarter of the city’s inhabit ants   q Széll Kálmán tér, then v 56, then   6 . Inner City Parish Church  The Basilica’s stained-  renovation of the abbey,   Practical Information
                  were Jewish. Tombs to look    cog-wheel railway and chair lift.  This limestone and marble   Hungary itself. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since   glass windows were   carried out during the reign   Vár 1, Pannonhalma, 20 km (12
                                     the magistrate János Péterffy, above
                  out for as you stroll among    the gateway there is a beautiful   tabernacle, in the church, dates   1996, there has been an abbey here since 1002,    added in around 1860.   of King Mátyás, in 1486.  miles) SE of Győr. Road Map B3.
                  the graves include that of the   To the west of the city centre   from the early 16th century  the same year St István brought Christianity to the   This one depicts St   Tel (96) 57 01 91.  Open 21 Mar–
                                     balcony supported by atlantes.
                  Wellisch family, designed in   For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285  Magyars. The original abbey burned down and was   Ladislaus, or László I, a   Apr & Oct–11 Nov: 9am–4pm   The visitors’ checklist gives all the
                                    are the wooded Buda Hills.
                  1903 by Arthur Wellisch, and   There are many caves here,                pious knight-king of   Tue–Sun; May: 9am–4pm daily;
                  that of Konrád Polnay, which   including Szemlőhegyi and     replaced in 1137 with a Romanesque construction,   the 11th century   Jun–Sep: 9am–5pm daily; 12
                  was designed five years later   Pálvölgyi-barlang.           itself superseded by the late Romanesque–early   canonized a century   Nov–20 Mar: 10am–3pm Tue–  practical informa tion needed to
                                                                                                           Sun. Library: Tel (96) 57 01 91.
                  by Gyula Fodor. Perhaps the     The first station of a       Gothic basilica still in existence today. The basilica’s   after his death.  & 8 7 ^ Abbey. 0 =
                  most eye catching of all tombs   cog- wheel railway, built in   main portal of receding arches is one of the most
                  belongs to the Schmidl family.   1874, is on Szilágyi Erzsébet   important surviving examples of a Porta Speciosa   Transport  plan your visit.
                  The startlingly flamboyant   fasor. This runs up Sváb Hill –   Stars indicate the sights   extant in Hungary.  £ @
                  edifice, designed in 1903    named after the Germanic
                  by Hungary’s prominent   Foyer in the Palace of Arts, a multi-arts performance venue  Swabians, who settled here
                  architects Ödön Lechner and   under the Habsburgs (see pp44–5)   . Arboretum
                  Béla Lajta, is covered in vivid   q Palace of Arts   fence of the wild and craggy   – and then Széchenyi Hill.  that no visitor should miss.  The arboretum on the
        The excavations of the Roman town Aquincum and the museum  turquoise ceramic tiles. The   (MÜPA)    300-sq-m (360-sq-yd) reserve     From Széchenyi Hill a    eastern slope has been
                                    narrow-gauge railway covers
                               that it encloses. It is worth taking
                  central mosaic in green and
                                                                                   the site of more than
                          Művészetek Palotája
        8 Aquincum    drainage system. The sanctuaries   gold tiles represents the    Komor Marcell utca 1. v 1, 2, 2A, 24.   the guided walk in the reserve,   a 12-km (7-mile) route to the   1,200 rare tree, shrub and
        Aquincum  of the goddesses Epona and   Tree of Life.  Ticket office (for all events): Tel (1) 555   parti cularly in spring or early   Hűvös Valley. As in the days    herbaceous plant species     Major Sights Historic buildings
             Fortuna can also be seen.  autumn. This is one of the only   of the Soviet Young Pioneers   since 1802. Most of the
        Szentendrei út 135. Tel (81) 430 10 81.     On the other side of the hév   33 00 or online. Open 10am–6pm   places to see the endangered   movement, the railway is staffed   species have grown wild
        £ Aquincum. @ 34, 42, 106.   railway line, the remains of an   0 Budapest   daily. 8 ∑ mupa.hu Museum of   Centaurea sadleriana, a flower   by children, apart from the adult   in the abbey’s grounds.
        Archeological park: Open Apr–Oct:   amphi theatre are visible, where  Holocaust   Contemporary Art: Tel (1) 555 34 44.   4are dissected to reveal their
        9am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: subject   Memorial Centre    Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun.   that resembles a cornflower but   train drivers. At the top of János
        to weather. Exhibitions: Open Apr–  the town’s inhabitants once   ∑ ludwigmuseum.hu  with a much larger flower head.   Hill stands the Erzsébet Look-  Our Lady Chapel
        Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar:   sought entertainment.  Holokauszt Emlékközpont  The reserve is also home to a   Out Tower, designed by Frigyes   On the far side of the abbey, Our Lady
        10am–4pm Tue–Sun. 8 &   Páva utca 39. Tel (1) 455 33 33.    The Palace of Arts, located in the  blue grass and a spider found   Schulek in 1910. A chair lift   Chapel has three Baroque altars and a tiny   interiors; museums and galleries
        ∑ aquincum.hu  9 Jewish Cemetery    q Ferenc körút. @ 4, 6, 30, 30A.   Millennium City Centre on the Pest  nowhere else in the world, as   connects János Hill with   organ. The abbey’s monks are buried here.
                                    Zugligeti út and this is a good
                          side of the Danube, between
                               well as extra ordinary, colourful
                  ∑ hdke.hu
        The remains of the Roman town   Zsidó temető  Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.    Lágymányos Bridge and the   butterflies and a rare lizard.  way of making the descent.   Detailed information All the
        of Aquincum were excavated    Kozma utca 6. @ 37.  new National Theatre, brings                              have colour­coded floorplans to
        at the end of the 19th century.   This outstanding memorial   together all the arts under one
        Visitors today are free to stroll   Next door to the Municipal   centre is dedicated to the tens   roof. Permanent residents in    3important sights in Budapest are
        along its streets, viewing the   Cemetery is the Jewish   of thousands of Hungarians   the palace include the Ludwig
        outlines of temples, baths,   Cemetery, opened in 1893.    deported from the Budapest   Museum of Con tem porary Art,   help you find the most
        shops and houses, in what was   The many grand tombs here    Ghetto to Auschwitz in the   the Béla Bartók National Concert
        once the centre of the town.  are a vivid reminder of the   latter stages of World War II.   Hall, the Festival Theatre and the   described individually. Practical
          The civilian town of Aquincum,   vigour and   Housed in a former synagogue,   National Dance Theatre.
        capital of the Roman province   success of   the exhibition tells of the fate                                important exhibits.
        of Pannonia Inferior, was founded   Budapest’s   suffered by Hungarian Jews,   w Eagle Hill Nature
        at the beginning of the 2nd   prewar   Gypsies and other victims.  Reserve    information includes a map   Western Tower
        century AD, a couple of decades   Jewish        The most moving part of   Sas-hegy Természetvédelmi Terület  Very much the abbey’s calling card,
        after a legionary fortress had   the memorial is the former                                        and its most recognizable feature,
        been established to its south.   main prayer hall, given over   Tájék utca 26. Tel (30) 477 67 20, (30)   the Western Tower, added in 1832,
        For centuries, it was the largest   to the photos of members   408 43 70. @ 8, 8A. Open 10am–6pm   reference, opening hours and   . Porta Speciosa  can be seen from far away.
        city in central Europe.  of the congregation who   Tue, Fri–Sun & pub hols, or by   Though now hemmed in by   Main entrance
          In the centre of the site a   once worshipped here.   arrangement. 8 compulsory.  extensions to the com plex, the
        museum is housed in a Neo-  The 8-m- (24-ft-) high   telephone numbers. The key to   Porta Speciosa is an outstanding
        Classical lapidarium displaying    glass wall around the   A nature reserve such as    example of its kind – an
        the most valuable Roman   centre, designed by   this that is close to the    ornamental portal held in red   The Benedictine Order
        archaeological finds from the   László Zsótér, is   centre of a large city is a    marble with rich wood carvings.
        area. The items on display   inscribed with the   remark able phenomenon.  the symbols used can be found   The Order of St Benedict, oldest of the religious orders, was founded by
        include weapons and various   names of all Hun-    Access to the summit of    KEY           Benedict of Nursia, who set up the first monastery at Monte Cassino, Italy,   Story boxes highlight specific aspects
        inscribed stone monuments.  garians known to   this steep, 266-m- (872-ft-)                 in 529. Benedict wanted to re-establish a sense of community in the
          Only a fraction of the former   have died in the   high hill to the west of Gellért   1 The Benedictine Grammar   turmoil after the collapse of the Roman Empire, and ever since commu-
        town is open to visitors today, but   Shoah. It allows    Hill (see pp73) is strictly regulated   on the back jacket flap.  School was founded in 1802 and    nity and hospitality have been the hallmarks of the Benedictines.   relating to a top sight and explore these
                                                                                                    Benedictine monks are known for living by their labour; Pannonhalma
        it is nonetheless impressive with   new names to be   to protect the extremely rare   is one of the finest in Hungary. The   is no exception. The 40 monks who still live at the abbey oversee
        its remarkable central heating   added; the goal is    animal and plant species found   entrance exams are famously tough.  . Library  the production and sales of the wine (vineyards surround the
        system based on hot air circu-  one day to have a   here. A smart residential quar ter   2 The Treasury is home to a rich   The Neo-Classical library holds   abbey), Benedic tine liqueur, honey, tea and lavender products.
        lated under mosaic floors. A drain   complete list of all   of attractive bourgeois villas,   collection of ecclesiastical art and   400,000 volu mes, including the   in more depth.
        cover is evidence that there    who perished in    which lies on the lower slope of   historical artifacts.  Tihany Manu script, the earliest   A wine produced at Pannonhalma
        was a good water supply and   Schmidl family tomb at the Jewish Cemetery  the Holocaust.  Eagle Hill, extends almost to the   The Erzsébet Look-Out Tower at the summit of János Hill, Buda Hills  example of written Hungarian.
        For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285                 For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
                                                                                                              Ede Heinrich, The Coronation of Franz Joseph I on 8 June 1867
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