Page 95 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Chicago

SOUTH L OOP AND NEAR SOUTH SIDE  93

The beautifully restored display, from Chuck Berry
interior boasts a world-class to The Rolling Stones, who
collection of decorative art recorded there.
objects. Most were purchased The real reason to visit the
or commissioned by the Blues Heaven Foundation is
Glessners, who were keenly the tour guide: often Alex
interested in the British Arts Dixon, the grandson of Willie
and Crafts movement of the Dixon, who is happy to offer
late 19th and early 20th story after story of his
centuries. Adherents of the grandfather’s recording streaks
philosophy that everyday alongside blues greats such as
objects should be artistically Howlin’ Wolf, Etta James, Muddy
crafted, they filled the house Wates and more.
with tiles, draperies, and
wallpaper designed by William y Clarke House
Morris. Handcrafted pieces,
from furniture to ceramics, and Museum
by American designer Isaac 1827 S Indiana Ave. Map 6 D1. The dining room in the Clarke House
E. Scott grace the rooms. Tel (312) 326-1480. q Cermak- and Museum
Chinatown then bus 21. 8 manda-
t Willie Dixon’s tory: noon, 2pm Wed–Sun (departs Four Roman Doric columns
Blues Heaven from Glessner House). Closed public mark the east entrance to the
house. Solidly constructed of
hols. & (free Wed). 7 ∑ clarke
Foundation housemuseum.org timber frame, with a white
clapboard exterior, the two-
2120 S Michigan Ave. Map 6 D1.
Tel (312) 808-1286. q Cermak- Built in 1836, Clarke House story house was damaged in
Chinatown then bus 21. @ 1, 3, 4. is Chicago’s oldest surviving a 1977 fire. It has now been
Open 11am–4pm Mon–Fri, noon– building, a Greek Revival-style painstakingly restored, even
2pm Sat; call ahead (mandatory). house constructed for adhering to the original color
Closed Sun & public hols. & 7 8 merchant Henry B. Clarke and scheme, which researchers
(for groups). - = his wife Caroline. The house determined by delving under
originally stood on what is 27 layers of paint.
Mississippi native Willie now South Michigan Avenue Now a museum showcasing
Dixon was one of the but was then an old Indian an interior reflecting the period
most prolific American path. When the house sold in 1836–60, Clarke House offers a
blues legends alongside 1872, the new owners moved fascinating glimpse into early
Muddy Waters. He set up it 28 blocks south, to 4526 Chicago domestic life. It is so
the non-profit Blues Heaven South Wabash Avenue. In historically accurate that the
Foundation in the 1980s to 1977, the City purchased the first-floor lighting simulates gas
promote the musical genre, house and then, in a feat of lighting, and the upper floor has
and financially support blues engineering, hoisted the no artificial lights. A gallery in
musicians in need. 120-ton structure over the the basement documents the
The Blues Heaven Foundation 44th Street “L” tracks, moving history of the house.
is located in the former Chess it to its present location one Behind the house is the
Records Office and Studio, was block southeast of the Chicago Women’s Park and
declared a Chicago Landmark original Clarke property. Garden (see p190).
in 1990, and has been
protected ever since. Slowly
but surely the building is
being restored to the glory
of its mid-century heyday.
Public hours are limited so
it is important to call ahead
before visiting. For other than
die-hard fans of the blues,
there may not be much of
interest apart and beyond the
hour-long documentary about
local blues history.
There are, however, several
rooms (the former Chess
offices) which have framed
photographs of famous
musicians and bands on The Greek Revival facade of the Clarke House and Museum

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