Page 216 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - South Africa
P. 216

214      THE   WESTERN  AND  SOUTHERN  C APE


                                               Lighthouse, the first to be seen
                                               by ships coming from Europe.
                                               Built in 1936, it is 80 m (263 ft) tall
                                               and casts a beam visible for
                                               about 50 km (31 miles). For a
                                               small fee you can climb to the
                                               top. Around a rocky headland
                                               from Paternoster, the village of
                                               St Helena perches at the edge of
                                               a sheltered bay. Just before the
                                               village a sign ed turnoff leads to
                                               the monument commemorating
       Fishermen drag their boat to the water at Paternoster  navigator Vasco da Gama’s
                                               landing here on St Helena’s Day,
       1 The West Coast    during the crayfishing season   7 November, in 1497.
                           (Dec–Apr), the local camp site     The fishing industry here
       Road map A4, A5.
                           attracts countless divers and   benefits from the cold, north-
       From Cape Town, the R27 leads   their families. Per mits, allowing   flowing Benguela Current. It
       up the West Coast to the Olifants   daily catches of four crayfish per   ensures a ready supply of rich
       River, linking Cape Town’s coastal   person, are obtainable at any   nutrients that sustain the vast
       suburbs of Milnerton, Blouberg-  post office.  populations of pelagic fish.
       strand and Melkbosstrand, and is     Continuing north on the R27,
       a scenic road with wonderful   past the industrial fishing hub   O Cape Columbine Nature
       views of the dunes and sea.   and harbour of Saldanha, is   Reserve
       Bloubergstrand, today a sought-  Vredenburg. From here, a 16-km   St Augustine Rd, Tietiesbaai. Tel 022
       after residential area, is famous   (10-mile) drive leads to Pater-  752 2718. Open 7am–7pm daily.
       for its unsurpassed views of Table   noster, a typical little wind-blown   Lighthouse: 10am–3pm. & 
       Mountain seen across the 16-km   fishing village with whitewashed
       (10-mile) wide expanse of Table   cottages. Legend recounts that   2 West Coast
       Bay, and lies at the foot of the   the Por tuguese sailors wrecked
       Blou berg (blue mountain). The   here recited the Paternoster (Our  National Park
       broad beaches and bays are   Father) to give thanks for their   See pp216–17.
       popular for watersports, though   survival. The village is a popular
       south easterly summer gales can   weekend retreat for Capetonians.
       create windy conditions.  Local regulations stipulate that
         Heading north along the R27,   new holiday cottages must be
       silver domes come into view.   built in the traditional West Coast
       They belong to Koeberg Nuclear   style. Just to the south of the
       Power Station, the only nuclear   village the small Cape
       facility in Africa. A left turn from   Columbine Nature Reserve
       the R27 onto the R315 leads to   covers a rocky stretch of
       Yzer fontein, whose claim to   coastline with inlets and coves.
       fame is its prolific crayfish (rock   It is the furthest westerly point
       lobster) reserves. These are a   in the Western Cape, and in it
       sought-after local delicacy and   stands the Cape Columbine
        Open-Air Seafood Feasts                A seal pup relaxes on the rocks of Bird
        Along the West Coast, there are a wide variety of open-air eating   Island, Lambert’s Bay
        places known as skerms (Afrikaans for “shelters”) with names like Die   3 Lambert’s Bay
        Strandloper (see p404), in Langebaan, and Muis-bosskerm (see p403),
                          in Lambert’s Bay. Reed roofs   Road map A4. * 6,200. n Hoof St,
                          provide shade and mussel shells   027 432 1000. Open Mon–Sat; also
                          are used as utensils, but the major   Sun during flower season.
                          appeal is the abundance of    _ Kreeffees (Crayfish Festival) (Apr).
                          fresh seafood on offer: smoked   ∑ lambertsbay.co.za
                          angelfish, snoek (a large gamefish
                          that tastes best when barbe cued),   This little fishing town, an hour’s
                          spicy mussel stews, thin slices    drive west of Clanwilliam on the
                          of perlemoen (abalone),    R364, was named after Rear
                          and calamari.        Admiral Sir Robert Lambert, a
                                               senior Royal Navy officer who
                          Lunch at Die Strandloper  moni tored the marine survey of
                                               this section of coastline.
       For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp386–7 and pp403–4


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