Page 131 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Croatia

D ALM A TIA  129

Komiža VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
On the western side of the
island lies Komiža, a quaint Practical Information
port long associated with the Road Map D6. * 4,300.
anchovy-fishing industry. Lined Vis town: n Šetalište stare Isse 5,
with handsome stone houses, (021) 717 017. ∑ tz-vis.hr
Komiža harbour is one of the Komiža: n (021) 713 455.
most attractive in the Adriatic. ∑ tz-komiza.hr
Right on the quayside. A defen- Transport
sive tower, built by the Venetians 4 from Split and Hvar;
and known as the Kaštel, is righ Jadrolinija, (021) 711 032.
on the quayside. It now houses
the Fishing Museum, which
commemo rates the swift Falkuša outside Plisko Polje were used
sailing boats unique to this town to create a landing strip during
that were once used to bring in The Kaštel, a fortified lookout tower built World War II so that Allied
the local catch. On the north by the Venetians at Komiža planes could supply Tito’s
side of the bay is the 16th- partisans, although the site
century Church of Our Lady of be reached either by road or is now largely covered by
the Pirates (Gospa Gusarica), by hiking path from Komiža. vineyards. One part of the
so-called because, legend has Superb views can be enjoyed former landing strip is occupied
it, a band of pirates who had from the summit, and by Croatia’s only cricket pitch –
stolen its wooden image of the adventure-sports enthusiasts built by enthusiastic locals who
Madonna were swiftly killed in use it as a base for hang-gliding. emigrated to Australia and
a shipwreck, while the statue On the eastern side of the returned home with a love of
floated safely back to shore. summit is Tito’s Cave (Titova the sport. South of Plisko Polje,
It has an unusual triple-nave špilja) where the World War II tracks lead to the enchanting
layout. Just inland from the partisan leader Josip Broz Tito coves of Stiniva and Mala
town centre, the Benedictine based his HQ for several months Travna, both hugely popular
Monastery sits on a small hill, in mid-1944. It was here that with bathers despite being
fortified by defensive bastions Tito’s army planned the quite hard to reach – many
and flanked by vineyards. re-conquest of German- trippers come on excursion
Komiža’s best beaches lie south, occupied Dalmatia. The cave boats from Vis town or Komiža.
where there is a series of coves. is frequently open to visitors
over the summer, although Environs
E Fishing Museum you should check with Komiža The starkly beautiful island
Riva svetog Mikule. Open Jun–Sep: tourist office to make sure. of Biševo, to the southwest
11am–noon, 7–10pm Mon-Sat, of Vis, is sparsely inhabited
7–10pm Sun. Plisko Polje and cannot be reached
Plisko Polje is the main inland by regular ferry transport.
Mount Hum village on the south side of the It is a popular destination for
Looming above Komiža is island, where fertile fields yield boat excursions because of
Vis’s highest point, Mount Hum some of the Adriatic’s best its Blue Grotto (Modra špilja),
(587 m/1,925 ft), which can Plavac wine, a dry red. The fields a cave where the water takes
on beautiful colours. This
mesmerising effect is produced
by sunlight shining into the
cave through a slightly
submerged aperture. The
grotto can only be reached
by boat: day trips depart
from Komiža in the morning
(contact the tourist office
or any of the private tourist
agencies near Komiža harbour).
Many boat trips to the
grotto also allow visitors a
few free hours on the island
of Biševo itself. A monastery was
built here in around 1000 AD,
which resisted raids by pirates
and Saracens for 200 years.
The ruins remain, along with
A small boat from a Komiža hotel, taking visitors to Biševo island a 12th-century church.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45

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