Page 133 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Croatia

D ALM A TIA  131

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map D–E5. * 11,500.
n Hvar town: Trg svetog
Stjepana 42, (021) 741 059. Stari
Grad: Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana
1, (021) 765 763. Sućuraj: (021)
717 288. ∑ tzhvar.hr
Transport
4 Split, Drvenik. Hvar town:
(021) 741 007; Jadrolinija: (021)
741 132. Stari Grad: (021) 765 060;
Part of the tranquil canal system, Vrboska Jadrolinija: (021) 765 048. Sućuraj:
(021) 773 228.
On the edge of the old E Tvrdalj
quarter is the Dominican Priko bb. Open May, Jun & Sep:
Monastery (Dominikanski 10am–1pm daily; July & Aug: Vrboska
samostan), founded by Brother 10am–1pm, 5pm–8pm daily. Vrboska is a pretty village
Germano of Piacenza in 1482 E Town Museum huddled around a succession of
and rebuilt and fortified after Ulaz braće Biankini 2. n (021) 766 stone bridges spanning a narrow
destruction by Uluz Ali, the 324. Open May, Jun & Sep: canal connected to the open
Ottoman corsair who raided 10am–1pm Mon–Sat; Jul & Aug: sea. Dominating the village is
the Adriatic islands in 1571. The 10am–noon, 7–9pm Mon–Sat, the 16th-century Church of
most feared sea captain of his 7–9pm Sun; Oct–Apr: by appt. St Mary (Sv. Marija), fortified
time, Uluz Ali was driven away R Dominican Monastery with huge buttresses to provide
by the stubborn defenders of Trg sv. Petra bb. Tel (021) 765 442. shelter for villagers in times of
Korčula, and came to pillage Open Jun–Sep: 10am–noon, 6–8pm siege. The Baroque Church of
the less well-defended island daily; Oct–May: by appt. St Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) has a poly-
of Hvar instead. As well as a ptych on the main altar by Paolo
beautiful cloister, the monastery Jelsa Veronese (c.1570) and a Virgin
has a library rich in medieval A traditional Dalmatian stone- of the Rosary by Leandro da
incunabula, and a collection of built settlement around a small Bassano. A short walk north is
paintings including a Deposition harbour, Jelsa is a popular base the Glavica peninsula, with rocky
by Tintoretto. The monastery for family holidays, with several beaches and pebbly coves. The
church contains the grave of beaches on the outer fringes of seaside path from Vrboska to
Petar Hektorović. town. For much of its history Jelsa is perfect for a relaxed stroll.
Immediately east of Stari Jelsa was a prosperous port,
Grad, the Ager is a fertile plain exporting the wines produced Zavala
that still preserves the field in the villages just inland. Steps Zavala is the principal village of
plan established by the island’s from Jelsa’s café-filled main Hvar’s peaceful southern coast,
ancient Greek inhabitants. square ascend to the Gothic where quiet hamlets lie below
Archaeologists have revealed parish Church of St Mary (Sv. slopes covered with vineyards.
that the Greeks cultivated wine, Marija). Hidden in the narrow The road here from Jelsa runs
figs and olives, much as their alleys of the historic centre is through a famously low and
modern counterparts do today, Trg svetog Ivana, a Renaissance narrow single-lane tunnel. There
but also grew wheat. Added piazza grouped around a unique is a long stretch of pebbly beach
to the UNESCO World Heritage octagonal chapel. The palm- running along Zavala’s shoreline.
list in 2008, the Ager can be shaded park behind Jelsa’s Boat captains here offer trips to
explored on foot or by bike. harbour contains a statue of the islet of Šćedro just to the
There are splendid views from 19th-century sea captain Nika south, with even quieter beaches,
the 16th-century Španjola fort Duboković by the prominent pine trees and maquis vegetation.
and the Napoleon fort (1811). Dalmatian sculptor Ivan Rendić.
Sućuraj
Lying in a sheltered bay at the
eastern tip of the island, Sućuraj
Poljica is where the ferry from Drvenik
on the mainland arrives. Its pretty
Sućuraj harbour boasts the remains of a
Bogomolje fortress built by the Venetians in
1630. Nearby, Mlaska Bay and
Key
Perna Bay are two of Hvar’s best
0 kilometres 5 Major road beaches, with clear shallow
0 miles 5 Minor road water over fine sand.
For keys to symbols see back flap

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