Page 254 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Croatia

252  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

since that time it has become
more lavish and elaborate, so
much so that its production has
become the preserve of
goldsmiths. The body of the
figure is traditionally glazed
ceramic. On request, precious
stones may be used to decorate
this figure. The best place to
buy a morčić in Rijeka is the
Mala Galerija.

Curiosities
Croatia can claim to have
invented one of the most well-
Lacemaker working on a piece of Pag lace known of men’s accessories, the
tie, or cravat. The tie actually
way, the pieces of lace that are from a Turkish siege during the originates from a type of scarf
produced can often be very 16th century. It was shown that worn by Croatian cavalrymen
different from one another. a determining factor in the to distinguish them from other
However, all the patterns victory was the contribution of soldiers during the bloody
originate with the same the women of Rijeka and it is 30-year war which devastated
geometric structure which said that their men decided to Europe in the 17th century.
forms the base. give them a gift of special The French took to referring
Pag lace is surprisingly light earrings made to represent to this particular way of tying
but at the same time strong. the invaders who had been the scarf as “à la cravate”,
If at all possible, pieces of the forced to flee for their lives. meaning “in the Croatian
lace should be bought in Pag In fact, it seems more way”. Since that time the
itself. Not only can you be sure likely that the morčić tie, or cravat, has become
of paying a better price than originated in the 17th a standard symbol of
elsewhere but you will be and 18th centuries as a smart, elegant dressing
helping to keep alive a tradition local reproduction, made for hundreds of millions
which is over a century old. from decidedly poor of men in the world.
Prices vary according to the materials, of a figurine The production of
size of the piece you buy, set with stones which ties in Croatia today
but if you consider that a table was very popular with is still of a very high
centrepiece measuring 10 cm the Venetians. The An earring with the standard, and a tie
(4 in) in diameter takes a figurine represented the morčić of Rijeka would make a highly
good 24 hours to make, you connections between appropriate choice
will have some idea of the Venice and the East and the for a souvenir of your visit.
labour involved. mystery that this part of the There are some very good
The only place to buy lace in world symbolized for them at clothes shops in the centre of
Pag is at the Lace gallery and the time. The figure soon Zagreb where you can buy an
shop in the old part of town. became a symbol of good luck assortment of ties, including the
among the Istrian people and high-end Boutique Croata.
Lucky Jewellery
There is one item of jewellery
which can only be found in
Croatia or, more precisely, only
in Rijeka. This is the morčić or
small Moorish figure. The
figurine, in the form of a black
character wearing a turban, was
originally produced as earrings
but today you can also find tie-
pins and brooches. The morčić
has become the symbol of the
city and, in 1991, it was
proclaimed the mascot of
Rijeka. A legend dates the
origins of the figurine to the
city’s unexpected liberation One of many jeweller’s shops in Croatia

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