Page 8 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Croatia

6  HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

The detailed information and tips given in may refer to the same town. Where
this guide will help you to get the most out both names are officially recognized,
of your visit to Croatia. Introducing Croatia the Croatian name is given first, then the
maps the country and sets it in its historical Italian in brackets. Restaurant and hotel
and cultural context. The six sections, one recommendations can be found in the section
dedicated to Zagreb, describe the main Travellers’ Needs, together with information
sights using maps, photographs and about shopping and entertainment.The
illustrations. In Istria, Kvarner and part Survival Guide has tips on everything from
of Dalmatia, two languages are spoken transport to making a phone call, as well as
(Croatian and Italian) and two place names other practical matters.

Croatia Area by Area
Croatia has been divided CRO A tIA AR e A by AR e A  91 Each area can be easily
into six main areas, each DALMATIA identified by its colour-coded
thumb tab.
one identified by its own Dalmatia is the most visited region of Croatia. Although tourism collapsed in
the 1990s because of the war, visitors have long since returned to the rocky
coastline and sandy beaches, the deserted islands and the splendid cities of this
colour code. On the inside Adriatic region. As a consequence of relationships and trade with Italy, an
Adriatic culture developed here which has given Dalmatia an Italianate feel.
front cover is a general map In the 1st century BC, after two centuries cities to Venice. In the 16th century, there Introduction
of war, the Romans managed to conquer
followed a second flowering of the arts,
and the sculptors, architects, painters,
the Dalmatian and Liburnian tribes and
of the country showing integrate them into their system. For writers and scholars of this period laid the 1This section describes the
foundations for the future development
over three centuries the region enjoyed
of Croatian culture, art and literature.
a period of prosperity which was
eventually brought to an end by the
In late spring, when the Jadranska
these six areas. All the most arrival of peoples from Asia, including magistrala coast road has yet to be character and history of
the Slavs in the 7th century.
invaded by heavy summer traffic, this
must be one of the loveliest parts
In 915, after a long period of wars and
interesting places to visit are unrest, the first Croatian kings founded of Europe. From Karlobag the road each area, highlighting its
winds along the edge of the Velebit
a new state, blessed by papal authority.
development over the
mountain chain and the Dalmatian
New public and religious buildings, walls
located on the Regional and town halls were built, the arts began and the Biokovo plateaux. Seawards centuries and what it has
is the long, lunar-surfaced island of
to flourish, and trading with the Italian
coast increased. This was a period of
Pag and further along are the islands
Map in each chapter. great cultural vitality, which survived around Zadar, those around Split, and to offer the visitor today.
finally the lovely island of Mljet, set
the collapse of the Croatian state and its
integration into the Kingdom of Hungary
in an azure sea. Behind are hillsides
in the 12th century. In 1409, after a long covered in vineyards and maquis
series of conflicts, the Hungarian king vegetation, dominated by the
sold the islands and many of the coastal bright yellow flowers of broom.
52  CR oa TI a a R e a B y a R ea I s TRI a a N d T h e K va RN e R a R ea  53
Exploring Istria and the Kvarner Area Sights at a Glance hUNGaRy
1 Buje (Buie) p Lovran
Istria is a triangular peninsula, traditionally divided into 2 Umag (Umago) s Opatija sLOVeNia • ZaGReB
three areas. White Istria is a central plateau of karst or 3 Novigrad (Cittanova) d Kastav BOsNia-
limestone with sparse areas of oak, pine and ash trees; grey 4 Poreč (Parenzo) pp55–7 f Rijeka pp72–3 heRZeGOViNa
Istria consists of a strip of eroded limestone with rich soil, 5 Vrsar (Orsera) g Cres
used for vines and olive trees; and red Istria is a plateau 6 Rovinj (Rovigno) h Lošinj (Lussino) adRiatic sea
furrowed by the rivers Mirna and Raša, farmed for cereals 7 Bale (Valle) j Risnjak National Park pp76–7
8 Vodnjan (Dignano)
k Krk
and vegetables. The most popular destinations in Istria are 9 Fažana (Fasana) Locator Map
Poreč, Rovinj, Pula and the Brijuni National Park. The 0 Brijuni National Park pp60–61 l Bakar
z Kraljevica (Porto Re)
Regional Map Walls of the Old Town, Dubrovnik – the “pearl of the Adriatic” q Pula (Pola) pp62–5 x Crikvenica Key
A secluded beach on the island of Mljet Kvarner area includes the city of Rijeka and the coastline as
far as Jablanac. Woods cover the northern hinterland, with
w Barban
c Novi Vinodolski
the Risnjak National Park to the north, and the Plitvice
v Senj
e Svetvinčenat
2This shows the road network and Lakes National Park to the southeast. The islands of Krk, The Cathedral of St Mary the Great on the r Pazin b Rab pp84–5 Motorway
t Gračišće
n Plitvice Lakes National Park
Cres, Lošinj and Rab are delightful places to explore. Many
island of Rab
y Pićan
Major road
pp88–9
of the towns on the coast have an Italianate appearance.
u Labin Tour Minor road
provides an illustrated overview Trieste Trieste Reka PRIMORSKO - Ljubljana i Plomin a Tour of the Fortified Towns Motorway under construction
Tršće
o Mošćenice
Main railway
County border
of the whole region. The most UMAG Rupa GORANSKA Crni Lug Kupa Karlovac International border
(UMAGO)
Ferry route
RISNJAK
BUJE (BUIE) Buzet NATIONAL PARK Delnice Velika Summit
interesting places to visit are NOVIGRAD Mirna Motovun TOUR OF THE OPATIJA KASTAV RIJEKA Ravna Gora Vrbovsko
Grožnjan
Matulji
FORTIFIED TOWNS
(CITTANOVA)
numbered, and there are useful (PARENZO) ISTARSKA Boljun LOVRAN BAKAR KRALJEVICA Bjelolasica Kapela
POREČ
1534m
PAZIN
GRAČIŠĆE PIĆAN MOŠĆENICE CRIKVENICA
Baderna
tips on getting around the region VRSAR Dvigrad SVETVINČENAT PLOMIN Brestova Porozina Omišalj Šilo Karlovac
(ORSERA)
by car and public transport. ROVINJ BALE BARBAN LABIN Rabac Valbiska KRK VINODOLSKI NOVI Krk The rocky coastline near Rovinj
(ROVIGNO)
(VALLE)
Venice Krk Brinje Karlovac
VODNJAN (DIGNANO) Cres Merag Baška SENJ M a l a K a p e l a 0 kilometres 30
BRIJUNI Plavnik 0 miles 30
NATIONAL FAŽANA(FASANA) Gacka Korana
PARK K v a r n e r Lubenice Lukovo Otočac PLITVICE LAKES Plitvice
PULA(POLA) CRES Rab Lopar NATIONAL PARK
Kampor RAB Mali Rajinac Bihać
1699m
Rab
Cres Dolin Jablanac Korenica
Getting Around Unije Osor LIČKO - SENJSKA P l j e š e v i c a
K v a r n e r i ć
The roads are good; there is a motorway V e l e b i t
190  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA linking Rijeka to Zagreb, as well as from ANJA  191 Nerezine
SLA VONIA AND BAR
Pula to the border with Slovenia. The larger Pag Lički Osik Ozeblin
islands can be reached by tourist and local LOŠINJ (LUSSINO) Gospić Udbina 1657m
Lošinj
Around the middle of the
9 Novi Mikanovci in the 1990s and now restored, ferries and there are frequent sailings in the Mali Lošinj Karlobag Lika Gračac Donji Lapac
summer season – these take cars also. Buses
it houses the Ethnographic 15th century, the Church and Susak Veli Lošinj Zadar
Map F2. * 700. k Osijek, 50 km Museum (Zavičajni muzej link all the main towns and there’s a bus that runs Zadar
Monastery of St Ivan Kapistran
(31 miles). £ Stari Mikanovci, 3 km “Stjepan Gruber”). from Pula to Trieste, while trains link Rijeka and
(Sv. Ivan Kapistran) were built
(2 miles). n (032) 344 034. Zagreb, with connections to the south of Croatia. Ilovik
inside the fort. Ivan Kapistran
was a Franciscan who was
The village is famous for the E Ethnographic Museum For hotels and restaurants see pp226–8 and pp238–40 For keys to symbols see back flap
small Romanesque Church of Savska 3. Tel (032) 837 101. Open famous for uniting Christian
St Bartholomew (Sveti Bartol), 7am–7pm Mon–Fri, 5–7pm Sat & Sun. forces against the Turks and
from the first half of the 13th & 8 (by appt). who died here in 1456. When
century, a rare example of Ilok became a major Turkish
architecture from before Turkish q Vinkovci administrative and military
rule. The church stands in a Map F2. * 33,000. k Osijek, 43 km centre in the 16th century,
cemetery and is called the (27 miles). £ (032) 308 215. @ (060) mosques and baths were
“Tower of Pisa of Slavonia” 332 233. n Local: Trg bana Josipa added to the fortress.
because of its leaning bell Šokčevića 3, (032) 334 653; Regional: Both the church and
tower, which appears to be Glagoljaška 27, (032) 344 034. the monastery have been
held up by the façade. At the _ Roman Days in Vinkovci (May); renovated and between them,
View of the 19th-century red-brick Cathedral of St Peter in Ðakovo cemetery entrance is a colourful Autumn in Vinkovci, Vinkovačke jeseni The Church of St Ivan, next to the fortified long stretches of the ancient
statue of St Bartholomew. (Sep). ∑ tz-vinkovci.hr walls in Ilok walls can still be seen. Parts of
7 Vrpolje was built. After Turkish rule, the one of the Turkish baths are
Map F3. * 2,200. k Osijek, 39 km city was renovated. Only the 0 Županja A settlement existed here as far w Ilok still visible.
(24 miles). @ from Osijek. n mosque, at the end of the back as 6000 BC; the Romans Map G2. * 6,000. k Osijek, 62 km In 1683, after his role in
Regional: Petra Krešimira IV, 2, central avenue, was retained. Map F3. * 14,000. k Osijek, 67 km named it Aurelia Cibalae. It was (38 miles). £ Vukovar, 39 km (24 winning the battle of Vienna,
Slavonski Brod (035) 408 393. It was converted into the (41 miles). £ (032) 831 183. n Veliki the birthplace of the Emperors miles). n Trg Nikole Iločkog 2, (032) Commander Livio Odescalchi
parish church of All Saints (Svi Valens and Valentinian, and a 590 020. _ Grape harvest festival was given the town of Ilok by the
A small country town, Vrpolje is Sveti) in the 18th century. kraj 66, (032) 832 711. _ Folklore bishop’s see from the 4th (first week in Sep). Austrian Emperor. In this idyllic
Festival, Šokačko sijelo (Feb).
known as the birthplace of The central square is ∑ tz-zupanja.hr century. In the Middle Ages it ∑ turizamilok.hr setting he built a U-shaped
the sculptor Ivan Meštrović dominated by the was called Zenthelye, because mansion, Odescalchi Manor.
(1883–1962) (see p163). Cathedral of St Peter On the border with Bosnia- of the presence of the (now Overlooking a wide loop Today, the mansion houses a
Many of the artist’s works, (Sv. Petar), built Herzegovina, Županja lies along abandoned) Church of St Elias in the River Danube, Ilok is the restaurant, public offices and the
donated to the town he between 1866 and a wide bend in the Sava River. (Sv. Ilija). The 12th-century easternmost city in Croatia Civic Museum (Gradski muzej)
held in great affection, can 1882 by Bishop Josip The area has been inhabited church is one of the oldest and the centre of the with archaeological and
be seen here. In the small Juraj Strossmayer; the since ancient times; Bronze Age monuments in Slavonia. region of Srijem, famous since ethnographic collections. The
parish Church of St John project was the finds have been discovered in a The Civic Museum (Gradski Roman times for its wine. In wines of Ilok are still produced
the Baptist (Sveti Ivan work of the Viennese necropolis. One of the first muzej), situated in the the late Roman era the here in the cellars, among them
Krstitelj, 1774) is his architects Karl Rösner Croat settlements was set up former 18th-century city grew in importance a dry white wine called Traminac. Detailed Information
statue of St John the Bust of a Woman by and Friedrich von here. After Turkish rule it Austrian barracks in and took the name R Church and Monastery of
Baptist, a relief and a Meštrović, Vrpolje Schmidt. The became one of the military the main square, of Cuccium.
crucifix, while outside is imposing façade is staging posts on the Vojna holds finds from In the Middle St Ivan Kapistran
a striking Bust of a Woman. flanked by two 84-m (275-ft) krajina (Military Frontier) (see the Roman Ages it was a O M Barbarića 4. Tel (032) 590 073. 3All the important towns
The Ivan Meštrović Gallery belfries. The interior has p41) and a trading centre. necropolis and has castrum with high Open by appt or before Mass.
(Spomen galerija) has 30 of his frescoes by Maksimilijan and The Frontier House is a a folklore collection. walls, towers and E Odescalchi Manor and
works on display: casts, bronzes Ljudevit Seitz, sculptures wooden building originally Large Roman Exhibit in the Civic fortified buildings. Civic Museum
and wooden sculptures. by Ignazio Donegani and from the early 19th century, sarcophagi Museum, Vinkovci The defences Šetalište oca Mladena Barbarića 5. and other places to visit are
Tomas Vodcka, and used by tax collectors. are displayed in the were reinforced in Tel (032) 827 410. Open 8am–6pm
8 Ðakovo decorations by Giuseppe Damaged during the bombings museum’s lapidarium. 1365, and the town was given daily, wine tastings only. Civic described individually. They
Voltolini from the 19th
Facing the garden is the
to Nikola Kont, whose family
Museum: Open 9am–6pm Fri,
Map F2. * 21,000. k Osijek, 48 km century. The crypt houses church of SS Eusebius and Pollio later acquired the title of 9am–3pm Tue–Thu, 11am–6pm Sat.
the tombs of the bishops
(Sv. Euzebije i Polion) from 1775,
& 8 7 = ^
Counts of Ilok.
(22 miles). £ (031) 811 360. @ (060) Strossmayer and Ivan de Zela. and the Town Hall.
302 030. n Kralja Tomislava 3, (031) Next to the church is the Each September a festival of
812 319. _ Ðakovo embroidery, 18th-century Bishop’s Palace, music and popular traditions is are listed in order and follow
Ðakovački vezovi (first week in Jul).
∑ tzdjakovo.eu which has an ornate held in the town and groups
from all over the country take
Baroque doorway.
In medieval times this town was The Festival of Embroidery part. The streets are decorated, the numbering shown on
known by the name of Civitas of Ðakovo (Ðakovački vezovi) is stallholders sell local produce,
Dyaco, and later as Castrum held at the beginning of July and artists perform.
Dyaco. Late in the 13th century with displays of traditional local
it became a bishopric, and its costumes, folk dancing and E Civic Museum the Regional Map. Detailed
influence extended over wine tasting. Trg bana Šokčevića 16. Tel (032) 332
most of Slavonia and Bosnia. R Cathedral of St Peter 504. Open Mar–Jul & Sep–Dec: 9am–
Conquered and destroyed by 3pm Tue & Wed, 9am–7pm Thu & Fri, information is given about
the Turks in 1536, it became a Strossmayerov trg. Tel (031) 802 200. Embroidered head-dress in the 9am–1pm Sat; Jan, Feb & Aug:
Muslim centre and a mosque Open 6:30am–noon, 3–7pm daily. Ethnographic Museum, Županja 8am–3pm Mon–Fri. 8 The mansion built by Commander Livio Odescalchi in Ilok
the most important sights.
For hotels and restaurants see p231 and pp247–8
006-007_EW_Croatia.indd 6 17/10/2014 12:10
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