Page 9 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Croatia

HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7

The Visitors’ Checklist provides
130  CRO A tIA AR e A by AR e A D ALM A tIA  131
practical information about transport,
a Hvar ViSiTorS’ CHeCKliST
Art treasures, a mild climate, good beaches and fields of Practical Information opening times, events and the
scented lavender make this island one of the treasures of the Map D–E5. * 11,500.
n Hvar town: Trg svetog
Adriatic. Limestone hills form the central ridge. Hvar’s story Stjepana bb, (021) 741 059. Stari
begins in the 4th century bC when the Greeks from Paros Grad: Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana closing dates of places of
founded Pharos (the present-day Stari Grad) and Dimos (Hvar 1, (021) 765 763. Sucuraj: (021)
town). traces have been left by the Romans, the byzantines, the 717 288. ∑ tzhvar.hr particular interest.
medieval Croatian kings and the Venetians, who ruled from Transport
1278 until 1797. After 1420, defences were built, and the capital 4 Split, Drvenik. Hvar town:
(021) 741 007; Jadrolinija: (021)
was moved from Pharos to Hvar town. In 1886, under Austria- 741 132. Stari Grad: (021) 765 060;
Hungary, the Hvar Hygienic Society began to promote the Main square of Hvar, with the Cathedral of Part of the tranquil canal system, Vrboska Jadrolinija: (021) 765 048. Sućuraj:
town as a health resort. Hvar was an important centre of St Stephen (021) 773 228.
Croatian culture during the Renaissance, when local-born Roman mosaic in the floor. E Tvrdalj
poets Hanibal Lucić and Petar Hektorović both wrote lyrically Conversation) in which he On the edge of the old quarter Priko bb. open May, Jun & Sep:
about the people and landscapes of the Adriatic. vividly describes a fishing trip is the Dominican Monastery 10am–1pm daily; July & Aug: Vrboska
around the islands of Hvar, Brač (Dominikanski samostan), 10am–1pm, 5pm–8pm daily. Vrboska is a pretty village
and Šolta. He began building founded by Brother Germano E Town Museum huddled around a succession of
the Tvrdalj in 1514, intending of Piacenza in 1482 and rebuilt Ulaz braće Biankini 2. n (021) 766 stone bridges spanning a narrow Detailed Information
for it to be both a palatial and fortified after destruction 324. open May, Jun & Sep: canal connected to the open
private house and a fortified by Uluz Ali, the Ottoman corsair 10am–1pm Mon–Sat; Jul & Aug: sea. Dominating the village is
sanctuary into which the local who raided the Adriatic islands 10am–noon, 7–9pm Mon–Sat, 7–9pm the 16th-century Church of St
population could retreat in 1571. The most feared sea Sun; Oct–Apr: by appt. Mary (Sv. Marija), fortified with 4on Each Sight
should there be an attack by captain of his time, Uluz Ali was R Dominican Monastery huge buttresses to provide
pirates. The Tvrdalj was driven away by the stubborn Trg sv. Petra bb. Tel (021) 765 442. shelter for villagers in times of
intended to be a self-sustaining defenders of Korčula, and came open Jun–Sep: 10am–noon, 6–8pm siege. The Baroque Church of St
unit, with a garden, a dovecote to pillage the less well-defended daily; Oct–May: by appt. Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) has a poly- The main attractions are listed
and a seawater fishpond were island of Hvar instead. As well ptych on the main altar by Paolo
included within its walls. as a beautiful cloister, the Jelsa Veronese (c.1570) and a Virgin of
Hektorović placed philosophical monastery has a library rich A traditional Dalmatian stone- the Rosary by Leandro da
inscriptions in Latin on the walls in medieval incunabula, and a built settlement around a small Bassano. A short walk north is for each place. A map shows
Narrow street between traditional stone houses in Stari Grad of the Tvrdalj, turning his home collection of paintings including harbour, Jelsa is a popular base the Glavica peninsula, with rocky
into a unique monument to a Deposition by Tintoretto. The for family holidays, with several beaches and pebbly coves. The
Hvar Town a picturesque old quarter of Renaissance humanist thought. monastery church contains the beaches on the outer fringes of seaside path from Vrboska to
See pp132–3. low stone houses and tiny Nearby is Stari Grad’s Town grave of Petar Hektorović. town. For much of its history Jelsa is perfect for a relaxed stroll. the main towns, villages and
streets. The 17th-century parish
Museum, housed in the
Jelsa was a prosperous port,
Immediately east of Stari
Stari Grad Church of St Stephen (Sv. Renaissance Biankini Palace. It Grad, the Ager is a fertile plain exporting the wines produced in Zavala
Founded by the Syracusans Stjepan), with its free-standing contains a stunning collection that still preserves the field the villages just inland. Steps Zavala is the principal village of beaches on the larger islands.
in the 4th century BC and Venetian-style bell tower, is the of Greek amphorae, some plan established by the island’s from Jelsa’s café-filled main Hvar’s peaceful southern coast,
originally called Pharos, Stari principal landmark. At the beautifully restored period ancient Greek inhabitants. square ascend to the Gothic where quiet hamlets lie below
Grad (literally, the Old Town) western end of the old quarter rooms, and a picture gallery Archaeologists have revealed parish Church of St Mary (Sv. slopes covered with vineyards.
is still Hvar’s main ferry port, is the Tvrdalj, the fortified devoted to local artists, that the Greeks cultivated wine, Marija). Hidden in the narrow The road here from Jelsa runs
despite having lost its political residence of Renaissance poet including the gifted, Paris- figs and olives, much as their alleys of the historic centre is Trg through a famously low and
and cultural importance to Petar Hektorović . Hektorović is trained Juraj Plančić (1899– modern counterparts do today, svetog Ivana, a Renaissance narrow single-lane tunnel. There
Hvar town. Stari Grad lies at the best known as the author of 1930). The Moira Gallery at but also grew wheat. Added to piazza grouped around a unique is a long stretch of pebbly beach
end of a long bay and the main Ribanje i ribarsko prigovaranje Vagonj 1 shows contemporary the UNESCO World Heritage list octagonal chapel. The palm- running along Zavala’s shoreline.
sights are scattered throughout (Fishing and Fishermen’s art and contains fragments of in 2008, the Ager can be shaded park behind Jelsa’s Boat captains here offer trips to
explored on foot or by bike. harbour contains a statue of the islet of Šćedro just to the
There are splendid views from 19th-century sea captain Nika south, with even quieter beaches,
the 16th-century Španjola fort Duboković by the prominent pine trees and maquis vegetation.
and the Napoleon fort (1811). Dalmatian sculptor Ivan Rendić. THE NOR THERN C OUNTIES  207
206  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA
Lying in a sheltered bay at the
Stari Grad Vrboska Sućuraj
SVETI KLEMENT Jelsa Poljica 1 Varaždin eastern tip of the island, Sućuraj wear richly decorated blue P Hercer Palace VISITOrS’ CHECKlIST
is where the ferry from Drvenik
Hvar HVAR on the mainland arrives. Its uniforms and bearskin hats. Palača Hercer
Traces of occupation from the Neolithic age, the La Tene To the east of the square Franjevački trg 6. Open 9am–5pm Practical Information
pretty harbour boasts the
Sućuraj
remains of a fortress built by the
PAKLENI ISLANDS Zavala Bogomolje civilization and the Roman period have been found around stands Drašković Palace (Palača Tue–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat & Sun. Map D1. * 42,0
Varaždin castle. Despite this, the first mention of the town is 658 760. Open same opening times (042) 210 987; Regional: Uska 4,
Venetians in 1630. Nearby, Mlaska
Entomological Museum: Tel (042)
Drašković), built in the late 17th
00. n Local: Ivana Padovca 3,
Key
Bay and Perna Bay are two of
The Croat Parliament met here
Hvar’s best beaches, with clear
ŠĆEDRO 0 kilometres 5 found in a document from 1181, when King Bela III confirmed century with a Rococo façade. as the palace. & 8 (042) 210 096. _ Baroque
Major road
shallow water over fine sand.
0 miles 5 the rights of the Zagreb Curia to the thermal spas in the area. in 1756–76. Opposite stands the Built at the end of the 18th evenings, Varaždin, (Sep–Oct);
Minor road
Gastrolov (Oct).
For hotels and restaurants see pp228–30 and pp240–45 In 1209, it was declared a free town by King Andrew II and it Renaissance Ritz House, one of century (the founders’ coat of ∑ tourism-varazdin.hr
the oldest in the town, as
arms is on the door), the palace
began to develop as a trading centre. In the late 14th century
For keys to symbols see back flap
it passed into the hands of the counts of Celjski, followed by evidenced by the date (1540) has housed the well-organized Transport
the counts of Frankopan, Brandenburg and Erdödy. In 1446, it Civic Museum (Entomološki @ Kolodvorska 17, (060) 333 555.
Entomological Section of the
£ Frane Supila, (042) 210 444.
engraved on the doorway.
was destroyed in a fire and in 1527 the Turks attacked. In 1776 R Cathedral of the odjel Gradskog muzeja) since
another fire destroyed the houses, but the Baroque buildings Assumption 1954. The museum was founded furnishings by local masters,
for which the town is famous were fortunately spared. Uznesenja Marijina thanks to the entomologist and an organ with figures of
Pavlinska ulica 4. Tel (042) 210 688. Franjo Košćec (1882–1968), who, angels playing instruments.
Open 9:30am–12:30pm, 4–7pm daily. The bell tower of St John the Baptist in in 1959, donated his natural The neighbouring monastery,
The Church of the Assumption Tomislav Square history collection to the city. from the same period, is famous
Main Towns Both the church and the two statues of St Francis of carried on by his daughter Ružica, incunabula and manuscripts, and
for its library of parchments,
became a cathedral in 1997.
From 1962 to 1980 his work was
a biologist. As well as thousands
annexed monastery were built
Assisi and St Anthony of Padua.
some of the oldest documents
century by the Jesuits. Later, the
a herbarium. From time to time,
5All the main towns have an in the first half of the 17th The interior has eight side of insects, the museum also has in ancient Croatian (kajkavski).
chapels and an ornate gilded
temporary exhibitions on a
Pauline order moved in.
pulpit from the late 17th
P National Theatre
variety of themes are organized.
century. The bell tower is 54 m
The cathedral’s tall façade is
Narodno kazalište
enlivened by pillars. The interior (177 ft) high. Ulica Augusta Cesarca 1.
individual section where the is a triumph of the Baroque. The In front of the church is one R Church of the Holy Trinity Tel (042) 214 688.
main altar occupies the width of
of the copies of the Monument
Sv. Trojstvo
Open for performances only.
Built by Hermann Helmer in 1873,
of Bishop Gregory of Nin by
Kapucinski trg 7. Tel (042) 213 550.
the central nave and has gilded
Open 9am–noon, 6–7pm Mon–Sat,
museums, monuments and Aerial view of the castle, today home to the Civic Museum columns, stuccoes and engrav- Ivan Meštrović. The adjacent Sun before and after mass. this is one of the main cultural
centres in the city. During the
ings. At the centre of the altar is
pharmacy has many works
P Castle and Civic Museum
The church dates from the
of art, among them some
E Gallery of Old and
an Assumption of the Virgin,
summer and autumn, theatre-
Stari grad & Gradski muzej Modern Masters reminiscent of Titian’s work in allegorical frescoes by Ivan early 18th century and houses goers from all over Europe
numerous Baroque paintings,
Venice. Evenings of Baroque
Galerija starih i novih majstora
come to attend performances.
Strossmayerovo šetalište 7. Tel (042)
Ranger (see p210).
other places of interest are listed. 658 754. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, Stančićev trg 3. Tel (042) 214 172. music concerts are held here. Varaždin Town Centre
9am–1pm Sat & Sun. & 8 ^
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, 9am–1pm
It is unknown when exactly this
Sat & Sun. & 8 by appt. ^
All the sights of major interest castle was built, though some The gallery has a large 1 Castle and Civic Museum Civic Museum V. N AZ OR A TRG BANA
collection of works by artists
documents suggest it dates
2 Gallery of Old and
from all over Europe, particularly
back to the 12th century. It was
Castle and
Modern Masters
built over the ruins of an
landscapes by Flemish and
are located on the town map. observation tower and, in the Italian artists, and portraits by 3 Tomislav Square and Modern Masters JELAČIĆA
4 Cathedral of the
Gallery of Old
15th century, two round towers
German and Dutch painters.
Assumption
were added. The castle was
rebuilt in 1560 by the Italian P Tomislav Square 5 Church of St John the PA D OVČEVA LJ. GAJEVA A . Š E N O E
Baptist
architect Domenico dell’Allio, Trg kralja Tomislava 6 Hercer Palace Town Hall P. P R E R A D O V I Č A
who created a Renaissance Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica): Trg V. LISINSKOG Church of TOMISLAV
St John
structure on two floors kralja Tomislava 1. Tel (042) 402 508. 7 Church of the Holy Trinity S . V R A Z A Ursuline Church URŠULINSKA U. the Baptist SQUARE Drašković Palace
with arcades and corridors Open by appt. Drašković Palace The rich Baroque altar in the Cathedral of 8 National Theatre Herzer FRANJEVAČKI PAVLINSKA
facing courtyards. (Palača Drašković): Trg kralja the Assumption Palace Cathedral of the
The castle’s present look dates Tomislava 3. Closed to the public. Patačiċ Assumption
from the time of the Erdödy This square is the heart of the KAČIĆEVA Palace GUN DULIĆEVA TRG HABDELIĆEVA
counts, who added the bastions town. Facing the square is the P Church of St John DRAŠKOVIĆEVA Church of
and a moat. It is now the Civic Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica), the Baptist Erdödy St Nicholas 500m (550 yards)
Train Station
Museum, which has collections one of the oldest buildings in Sv. Ivan Krstitelj Palace SLOBODE TRG
of weapons, porcelain, furniture, Varaždin. Built in the Gothic Franjevački trg 8. Tel (042) 213
handicrafts, and a pharmacy style in the 15th century, it has 166. Open 8:30am–noon, 5:30– A . C E S A R C A ANINA
from the 18th century. Remains since been altered and a clock 7pm daily. KAPUCINSKI TRG National Theatre
of the wall and the Lisak tower, tower added. It has been the The church was built in 1650 in ZRINSKIH I FRANKOPANA
to the east of the castle, are the Town Hall since 1523, when the Baroque style on the site of 0 metres 200 Church of BLAŽEKOVA
the Holy
only evidence remaining of Prince George of Brandenburg a 13th-century church. The 0 yards 200 Trinity
z A g R e B  161
160  CR o A TIA AR e A B y AR e A the ancient walls that existed gave it to the city. It is guarded façade has a Renaissance
at this site. in summer by the Purgers, who doorway with a tympanum and Bus Station
Street-by-Street: the Upper Town (Gornji grad) For hotels and restaurants see p231 and pp248–9 For keys to symbols see back flap
8 . Meštrović Atelier
Ivan Meštrović lived in this
In the Upper Town there are various institutions which have The great Croatian sculptor Gornji
played a significant part in the history of the city and of 7 Croatian Natural 18th-century building Grad
from 1922 to 1941. About
Croatia. They now house the political and cultural centres History Museum ten years before his death
of the country: the presidency of the Republic, Parliament, Created from three collections, the he donated his home and Central ZaGreb The town map shows
museum houses most of the finds
the State Audit Court and several government ministries. from Krapina, which date human all the works of art in it to
All of these buildings were restored, repaired or rebuilt after presence in Croatia back to the the state.
the terrible earthquake of 1880. Some of the ancient noble Palaeolithic era. Locator Map the main roads, stations,
palaces have been converted into museums. There are also
three interesting churches: the ancient church of St Mark,
the Baroque church of St Catherine built by the Jesuits, and car parking areas and
the church of Saints Cyril and Methodius. The daily signal to 0 Parliament Building
close the city gates was rung from the medieval tower of D E M E T R o V A This building dates from 1910, when the tourist offices.
M L E T A Č K A was proclaimed from the central window
provincial administration offices were
Lotrščak (Turris Latruncolorum). enlarged. The independence of Croatia
of the building in 1918.
q Viceroy’s Palace B A S A R i Č E K o V A
The building dates from the 17th century and was U L i C A
built after the city became the seat of the Ban
(governor of Croatia) in 1621. It now houses the
M E S N i Č K A U L i C A o P A T i Č K A 6This gives a bird’s-eye view of
presidency of the Republic. Street-by-Street Map
M A T o Š E V A U L i C A M A R K o V K A M E N i T A The coloured tiles on the roof of this the key areas of interest in the
T R G
main towns and cities with
9 . Church of St Mark
fine Gothic church form the coats
Slavonia and Zagreb.
w Croatian History Museum of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia, photographs and captions
This museum, housed in the Vojković-Oršić-
Kalmer-Rauch palace, has works of art and ć i R i L o M E T o D S K A
documents collected since 1959. o P A T i Č K A U L i C A 5 The Stone Gate is describing the sights.
all that remains of the
five original gates
constructed around
the Gradec area in
the 13th century.
j E z U i T S K i
T R G
The Klovićevi Dvori, an
important temporary
r Church of SS. Cyril exhibition site, has
and Methodius been housed since 1982
Built by Orthodox in a 17th-century
Christians in the first half Jesuit monastery.
of the 19th century, the t Tower of Lotrščak
church, designed by At noon every day a cannon is
Bartol Felbinger, has a fired from this tower, which
fine iconostasis. dates from the 12th century.
e . Croatian Museum 56  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA ISTRIA AND THE K V ARNER AREA  57
of Naive Art y Church of St Catherine
Over 1,500 works of Naive art by the Key 0 metres 50 Built on the site of an ancient
Dominican church, this is the city’s
founders and followers of the Hlebine Suggested route 0 yards Poreč: Euphrasian Basilica Interior VISIToRS’ ChECKlIST
School are held here. 50 most fascinating Baroque building. The entrance leads to a
nave and two side aisles.
For hotels and restaurants see pp230–31 and pp245–7 Eufrazijeva bazilika large basilica with a central Practical Information
Eufrazijeva ulica 22.
This 6th-century church, a Byzantine masterpiece, is The 18 Greek marble Tel (052) 429 030. open call
columns have carved
decorated with splendid mosaics on a gold background. capitals featuring animals, ahead for opening times. &
The Euphrasian Basilica was built for Bishop Euphrasius some of Byzantine origin
between 539 and 553, by enlarging the existing 4th-century and others Romanesque.
All bear the monogram
Oratory of St Maurus Martyr. Some of the original floor of Euphrasius.
mosaics still survive. Over the centuries the building has
undergone numerous alterations. In December 1997 the
basilica was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Classical concerts are held in the church in July and August.
Croatia’s Top Sights beautiful 13th-century ciborium, This octagonal building dates
. Ciborium
Baptistry
Dominating the presbytery is a
from the 6th century. In the
7These are given two full supported by four marble centre is a baptismal font and
there are also fragments of
columns. The canopy is
decorated with mosaics.
mosaics; to the rear rises a
16th-century bell tower.
pages. There are cutaways
or reconstructions of historic . Apse Mosaics
Mosaics from the 6th century cover the apse. On the triumphal
buildings, maps of national arch are Christ and the Apostles (above); on the vault, the
Virgin enthroned with Child and two Angels,
to the left St Maurus, Bishop
Euphrasius with a model of
parks with information about the basilica, and Deacon
Claud with his son.
trails and facilities available,
and there are floorplans of
the major museums. There
are also photographs
of the main sights. KEY 1 Remains of a 4th-century mosaic
Atrium
floor from the Oratory of St Maurus
Sacristy and the are in the garden. This has a roughly
Votive Chapel 2 The Bishop’s Residence, a square portico with two
Past the sacristy’s left wall triple-aisled building dating from columns on each side.
is a triple-apsed chapel the 6th century, now houses several Tombstones and a variety
with a mosaic floor from
of archaeological finds
paintings by Antonio da Bassano, a
Stars indicate the sights the 6th century. Here lie polyptych by Antonio Vivarini and dating from the medieval
period are displayed
the remains of the saints
a painting by Palma il Giovane.
Maurus and Eleuterius.
in this area.
that no visitor should miss. For hotels and restaurants see pp226–8 and pp238–40
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