Page 118 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Venice & The Veneto

116  VENICE AREA B Y AREA

1 San Zaccaria Florence, and Gothic polyptychs 3 La Pietà
painted in 1443–4 by Antonio
Campo San Zaccaria. Map 8 D2. Riva degli Schiavoni. Map 8 D2.
Tel 041 522 12 57. 4 San Zaccaria. Vivarini and Giovanni d’Alemagna. Tel 041 522 21 71. 4 San Zaccaria.
Open 10am–noon, 4–6pm Mon–Sat, The relics of eight doges lie Open 10:15am–noon & 3–5pm Tue–Fri,
4–6pm Sun & public hols. & Chapels buried in the waterlogged crypt. 10:15am–1pm & 2–5pm Sat & Sun. &
& Crypt. ^ 8 noon Tue–Fri. ∑ pietavenezia.org
Set in a quiet square a stone’s The church of La Pietà (or Santa
throw from the Riva degli Maria della Visitazione) dates
Schiavoni, this church blends from the 15th century. It was
Flamboyant Gothic and Classical rebuilt in 1745–60 by Giorgio
Renaissance styles. Founded in Massari, and the Classical façade
the 9th century, San Zaccaria was added in 1906. The church
was completely rebuilt between has a cool, elegant interior, with
1444 and 1515. Antonio an oval plan. The resplendent
Gambello began the façade in ceiling fresco, Triumph of Faith
Gothic style and, when Gambello (1755), was painted by
died in 1481, Mauro Coducci Giambattista Tiepolo.
completed the upper section, The Pietà started its life as a
adding all the Classical detail. foundling home for orphans.
The adjoining Benedictine It proved so popular that a
convent, which had close links warning plaque was set up (still
with the church, became quite to be seen on the side wall),
notorious for the riotous Distant view of San Giorgio dei Greci’s threatening damnation to
behaviour of its nuns. The tilting campanile parents who tried to pass off
majority were from families of their children as orphans.
Venetian nobility, many of them 2 San Giorgio dei From 1703 until 1740, Antonio
sent to the convent to avoid Greci Vivaldi directed the musical
the expense of a dowry. groups and wrote numerous
Every Easter the doge came Map 8 D2. Tel 041 523 95 69. 4 San oratorios, cantatas and vocal
with his entourage to San Zaccaria. Open 9am–1pm, 2:30–5pm pieces for the Pietà choir, and
Zaccaria – a custom which Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun (for Mass the church became famous for
only). Museo dell’Icone: Tel 041 522 65
originated as an expression of 81. Open 9am–5pm daily. & ^ its performances.
gratitude to the nuns, who had It is now a popular venue
relinquished part of their garden The most remarkable feature for concerts, with an emphasis
so that Piazza San Marco could of this 16th-century Greek on Vivaldi. These are held
be enlarged. church is the listing campanile, throughout the year, usually
The artistic highlight of the which looks as if it is about to on Mondays and Thursdays.
interior (illuminate with coins in topple into the Rio dei Greci.
the meter) is Giovanni Bellini’s Inside is the matroneo –
sumptuously coloured and the gallery where, in keeping
superbly serene Madonna and with Greek Ortho dox custom,
Child with Saints (1505) in the the women sat apart from the
north aisle. men. Note also the iconostasis
On the right of the church is separating the sanctuary
a door to the Chapel of St from the nave. The nearby
Athanasius, which leads to the Scuola di San Nicolò dei Greci, Bas relief on La Pietà’s early
Chapel of San Tarasio. The chapel redesigned in 1678, is now 20th-century façade
is decorated with vault frescoes the museum of icons of the
(1442) by Andrea del Castagno of Hellenic Institute.
4 Hotel Danieli
Riva degli Schiavoni 4196. Map 7 C2.
Tel 041 522 64 80. 4 San Zaccaria.
∑ danielihotelvenice.com
One of the most celebrated
hotels in Europe, the Danieli’s
deep-pink façade is a landmark
on the Riva degli Schiavoni. Built
in the 14th century, it became
famous as the venue for the first
opera performed in Venice,
Monte verdi’s Proserpina Rapita
Detail from The Nun’s Parlour at San Zaccaria by Francesco Guardi (1630). The palace became a

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