Page 120 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Venice & The Veneto

118  VENICE AREA B Y AREA

8 Fondazione Of particular note are the Tribuna
Querini Stampalia and the Sala a Fogliami (Foliage
Room). Temporary exhibitions
Campo Santa Maria Formosa, 5252 are also held at the palazzo.
Castello. Map 7 C1. Tel 041 271 14 11.
4 San Zaccaria. Palace: Open 10am–
6pm Tue–Sun. = & 8 - Library: q Statue of Colleoni
Open 10am–9pm Tue–Sat, 10am–
7pm Sun. ∑ querinistampalia.org Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo.
Map 3 C5. 4 Ospedale Civile.
The large Palazzo Querini
Stampalia was commissioned Bartolomeo Colleoni, the famous
in the 16th century by the condottiere or commander of
descend ants of the old Venetian mercenaries, left his fortune to
Querini family. Great art the Republic on condition that
lovers, they filled the palace his statue was placed in front of
with fine paintings. San Marco. A prominent statue
In 1868 the last member of in the Piazza would have broken
the dynasty bequeathed the with precedent, so the Senate
palace and the family collection cunningly had Colleoni raised
of art to the foundation that before the Scuola di San Marco
bears his name. The paintings instead of the basilica. A touch-
include works by Giovanni stone of early Renaissance
Bellini, Giambattista Tiepolo and sculpture, the equestrian statue
some vignettes by Pietro and Palma il Vecchio’s St Barbara in of the proud warrior (1481–8)
Alessandro Longhi. The library Santa Maria Formosa is by the Florentine Andrea
on the first floor, open to the Verrocchio and, after his death,
public, has over 200,000 books. glorifies Venice’s ideal female was cast in bronze by Alessandro
beauty. She is surrounded by Leopardi. The statue has a strong
9 Campo Santa saints, with a central lunette of sense of power and movement
Maria Formosa the pietà above. St Barbara was which arguably ranks it along-
side works of Donatello.
the patron saint of soldiers: in
wartime they prayed to her for
Map 7 C1. 4 Rialto, Fondamente
Nuove. Church: Tel 041 275 04 62. protection; in victory they came
Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat. for thanksgiving. w Scuola Grande
Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 15 Aug, 25 Dec. di San Marco
9 & ^ ∑ chorusvenezia.org
0 Palazzo Grimani Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo.
Large, rambling and flanked by Ramo Grimani, 4858 Castello. Map 7 Map 3 C5. 4 Ospedale Civile. Library:
handsome palaces, this market C1. 4 San Zaccaria, Ospedale Civile. Tel 041 529 43 23. Open 9:30am–1pm,
square is one of the most Tel 041 520 03 45. Open 8:15am– 2–5pm Tue–Sat. Closed public hols,
one week in mid-Aug, 24 Dec–1 Jan.
characteristic campi of Venice. 7:15pm Tue–Sun (to 2pm Mon). Church: Open 8am–noon Mon–Sat,
On the southern side is the Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & (combined 9–10am Sun. ∑ scuolagrande
church of Santa Maria Formosa, ticket with the Ca d’Oro also available). sanmarco.it
distinctive for its swelling apses. 7 ∑ palazzogrimani.org
Built on ancient foundations, the Few hospitals can boast as rich
church was designed by Mauro Palazzo Grimani was once a and unusual a façade as that of
Coducci in 1492 but took over famous residence-museum. The Venice’s Ospedale Civile. It was
a century to assume its current building housed a fine collection built originally as one of the six
form. Unusually, it has two main of antiquities after the two great confraternities of the city
façades – one overlooking the Grimani brothers, Giovanni, (see p131). Their first headquarters
campo, the other the canal. The Patriarch of Acquileia, and were destroyed by fire in 1485,
campanile was added in 1688. Vettore, a Procurator of St Mark’s, but the Scuola was rebuilt at
Its most notable feature is the renovated their grandfather’s the end of the 15th century. The
truly grotesque stone face that palace in the mid-16th century. delightful asymmetrical façade,
decorates its foot. The result is a magnificient work with its arcades, marble panels
Inside, Palma il Vecchio’s of architecture, which combines and trompe l’oeil effects, was the
polyptych St Barbara and Saints Tuscan and Roman elements work of Pietro Lombardo working
(c.1523) ranks among the great with the original Venetian ones. in conjunction with Giovanni
Venetian masterpieces and looks The Roman courtyard and the Buora. The upper order was
particularly splendid since its monumental staircase are its fine finished by Mauro Coducci in
restoration by the American examples. Although the rooms 1495. The interior was revamp ed
Save Venice organization. Palma’s are unfurnished, the decoration in the 19th century and, since
portrayal of the handsome and is rich, with stuccoing, statues, then, most of the artistic master-
dignified figure of St Barbara fireplaces and stunning frescoes. pieces have been dispersed.

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