Page 141 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Venice & The Veneto

DORSODURO  139

history of this Grand Canal
palace, its owners have
been plagued by accidents,
suicides and bankruptcy,
from Giovanni Dario, who
commissioned the building
in 1479, to the industrialist
Raul Gardini, who shot himself
in 1993.

i Santa Maria
della Salute
Campo della Salute. Map 7 A4.
Tel 041 274 399 28. 4 Salute. Church
and Sacristy: Open 9am–noon,
3–5:30pm daily. & for Sacristy. ^
This great Baroque Church
standing at the entrance
of the Grand Canal is one of
the most imposing architectural
landmarks of Venice. Henry
James likened it to “some
great lady on the threshold
of her salon … with her Baroque church of Santa Maria della Salute built in honor of deliverance from the plague
domes and scrolls, her scalloped
buttresses and statues forming on the wall opposite the o Punta della
a pompous crown and her wide entrance is The Wedding at Dogana
steps disposed on the ground Cana (1551), a famous work
like the train of a robe”. The by Tintoretto. Campo della Salute. Map 7 A4.
church was built in thanksgiving The Pinacoteca Manfrediniana Tel 041 240 13 08. 4 Salute.
for the deliverance of the city can be found next door and is Open 10am–7pm Wed–Mon
from the plague of 1630, hence home to a number of paintings, during temporary exhibitions
the name Salute, meaning including works by Veronese only. Closed 25 Dec. & ^
∑ palazzograssi.it
“health and salvation”. Every and Titian.
21 November, in celebration The building which housed
(see p39), worshippers approach the sea customs post was
across a bridge of boats originally built in the 15th
spanning the mouth of century to inspect the cargo
the Grand Canal. Baldassare of ships that intended to
Long hena started the church enter Venice. However, the
in 1630. It was completed in customs house that visitors
1687, five years after his death. see today was constructed
The interior consists of a in the late 17th century
large octagonal space below and replaced a tower that
the cupola and six chapels originally guarded the entrance
radiating from the ambulatory. to the Grand Canal. On the
The altar’s sculptural group corner tower of the house,
by Giusto Le Corte represents two bronze Atlases support
the Virgin and Child protecting a striking golden ball with
Venice from the plague. Some a weathervane figure of
of the best works, such as Fortuna on the top.
Titian’s ceiling paintings of The Punta della Dogana
Cain and Abel, The Sacrifice of continued to serve as a
Abraham and Isaac and David customs house until the
and Goliath (1540–49), are 1980s. After standing empty
beyond the altar, where visitors for many years, the building
are not allowed. In the sacristy was bought by French
is Titian’s early altarpiece of billionaire François Pinault
St Mark Enthroned with Saints in 2007, and now hosts
Cosmos, Damian, Roch and Interior of the Salute showing the octagonal temporary displays of
Sebastian (1511–12), while core of the church modern art.

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