Page 159 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Venice & The Veneto

THE LA GOON ISLANDS  157

elsewhere there were severe
penalties – even death.
Although a few of Murano’s
palazzi bear testimony to its
former splendour, and its basilica
still survives, most tourists visit
for glass alone. Some are enticed
by offers of free trips from factory
touts in San Marco; others go by
excursion launch or independently
on the public vaporetti.
Some of the factories are now
derelict, but glass is still The colonnaded exterior of Murano’s Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato
produced in vast quantities.
Among the plethora of kitsch The island’s architectural 5 San Michele
(including imports from the Far highlight is the Basilica dei 4 No. 4.1 or 4.2 from Fondamente
East) are some wonderful Santi Maria e Donato, whose Nuove.
pieces, and it pays to seek out magnificent colonnaded apse
the top glass factories (see p253). is reflected in the waters of the Studded with dark cypresses and
Many furnaces, however, close San Donato canal. Despite enclosed within high terracotta
at the weekend. some heavy-handed restoration walls, the cemetery island of San
undertaken in the 19th century, Michele lies just across the water
E Museo del Vetro this 12th-century church still from Venice’s Fondamente
Palazzo Giustinian, Fondamenta retains much of its original Nuove. The bodies of Venetians
Giustinian. Tel 041 739 586. Open beauty. Visitors should note were traditionally buried in
10am–6pm daily (Nov–Mar: to 5pm). the Veneto-Byzantine church graveyards in Venice,
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. & = columns and Gothic ship’s but, for reasons of hygiene
∑ museovetro.visitmuve.it keel roof. An enchantingly and space, San Michele
The Museo del Vetro (glass evocative mosaic portrait and its neighbour were
museum) in the huge Palazzo of the Madonna, seen designated cemeteries
Giustinian houses a splendid standing alone against in the 19th century.
collection of antique pieces. The a gold background, The church of San
prize exhibit of the collection is decorates the apse. Michele in Isola stands
the Barovier wedding cup The church’s floor, or by the landing stage.
(1470–80), with enamelwork pavimento, dating from Designed by Mauro
decoration by Angelo Barovier. 1140, is equally beautiful. Coducci (c.1469), it was
There is also a splendid section With its medieval the first church in Venice
devoted to modern glass. mosaics of geometric Diaghilev’s to be faced in white
figures, exotic birds, tombstone Istrian stone. The
R Basilica dei Santi mythical creatures and cemetery itself rambles
Maria e Donato inexplicable symbols, it over most of the island. With its
Fondamenta Giustinian. Tel 041 73 90 incorporates fragments of carved tombstones and chapels
56. Open 9am–noon, 3:30–7pm daily ancient glass from the island’s it has a curious fascination. Some
(Nov–Mar: to 6pm). Closed Sun am. foundries into its imagery. graves have suffered neglect, but
most are welltended and
enlivened by a riot of flowers.
Glass Blowing The most famous graves are
those of foreigners: Ezra Pound
A main attraction of a trip to (1885–1972), in the Evangelisti
Murano is a demonstration of the
glass-blowing technique. Visitors (Protestant) section, and Sergei
can watch while a glass blower Diaghilev (1872–1929) and Igor
takes a blob of molten paste on Stravinsky (1882–1971) in the
the end of an iron rod and, by Greci or Orthodox section.
twisting, turning and blowing, These bodies have been
miraculously transforms it into a allowed to rest in peace. Most
vase, bird, lion, wine goblet or others are dug up after about
similar work of art. The display is 10 years to make way for new
followed by a tour of the showroom arrivals, and the bones taken
and a certain amount of pressure to the ossuary island of
from the salespeople. There is no Sant’Ariano. Today, however,
obligation to buy, however. because of increasing lack
of space on San Michele,
Glass blower at work in Murano most bodies are buried on
the mainland.

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