Page 8 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Venice & The Veneto

6  HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you get the most from your important sights, with maps, pictures and
stay in Venice and the Veneto. It provides detailed illustrations. Suggestions for food,
both expert recommendations and detailed drink, accommodation, shopping and
practical information. Introducing Venice and entertainment are in Travellers’ Needs, and
the Veneto maps the region and sets it in its the Survival Guide has tips on everything
historical and cultural context. Venice Area by from the Italian telephone system to
Area and The Veneto Area by Area describe the travelling around Venice by vaporetto.

Venice Area by Area
VENICE AREA B Y AREA  77
The city has been divided into SAN MARCO Each area of Venice can
five sightseeing areas. The Home of the political and judicial nerve only one deemed fit to be called a piazza – be quickly identified by its
the others were merely campi, or fields.
centres of Venice, the sestiere of San Marco
The San Marco area has the bulk of luxury
has been the heart of Venetian life since
the early days of the Republic. The great
hotels, restaurants and shops. It is also home
lagoon islands make up a sixth showpiece of the Serenissima was the to several imposing churches, three theatres, colour coding.
Piazza San Marco, conceived as a vista for
including the famous Fenice, and a wealth
the Doge’s Palace and the Basilica. The of handsome palazzi. Many of these line the
area. Each area has its own square, des cribed by Napoleon as “the most sweeping southern curve of the Grand
Canal, which borders the sestiere.
elegant drawing room in Europe”, was the
chapter, which opens with a Sights at a Glance 7 Columns of San Marco and 1 Acqua Pazza 12 Da Raffaele A locator map shows
Churches
Restaurants see pp242–3
3 Basilica San Marco pp82–7
San Teodoro
q San Moisè s San Giorgio Maggiore 2 Ai Assassini 13 Devil’s Forest Pub
list of the sights described. All y Santo Stefano Streets and Squares 4 Al Bacareto 15 Grand Canal where you are in relation to
e Santa Maria Zobenigo
3 Ai Mercanti
14 Do Forni
5 Alla Caravella
16 Harry’s Bar
i San Salvatore
a San Zulian t Campo Santo Stefano 6 Antico Martini 17 Osteria Da Carla
o Campo San Bartolomeo
18 Osteria Enoteca
the sights are numbered and Museums and Galleries p Mercerie 8 Bar Cavatappi San Marco other areas of the city.
7 Bar all’Angolo
5 Libreria Sansoviniana
Bars
9 Bistrot de Venise
19 Ristorante
6 Museo Archeologico
8 Museo Correr 9 Harry’s Bar 10 Centrale alla Borsa
20 Ristorante Quadri
Theatres
plotted on an Area Map. The Palaces 0 Ridotto 21 Rosso Pomodoro
11 Da Ivo
u Museo Fortuny
22 Rosticceria
r La Fenice
4 Doge’s Palace pp88–93
San Bartolomeo
w Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo CAMPO SAN
detailed information for each Historic Buildings and Rialto BARTOLOMEO
Monuments
1 Campanile VIA DO APRILE Area Map
sight is presented in numerical C a n a l G r a n d e RIVA DEL CARBON CORTE TEATRO Rio di S Salvador MERCERIA CAMPO D. GUERRA
2 Torre dell’Orologio
Sant' Angelo CAMPO SAN LUCA CAMPO C A L L E 1For easy reference, the
order, making it easy to locate CAMPIELLO DEL TEATRO C D. AVVOCATI SAN BENETO Rio di San Luca CAMPO MANIN Rio F useri CALLE D. FUSERI D E I FA B B R I C. FIUBERA C LARGA S MARCO sights are numbered and
within the chapter. RAMO LEZZE CALLE DEI ORBI NUOVO CLLO Rio di Sant’Angelo CAMPO ANGELO SANT’ Rio della Verona CAMPO FANTIN SAN BARCAROLI C D. SAN MARCO PIAZZA
Samuele San CPO SAN FREZZERIA located on a map. The
SAMUELE Rio delle Veste SAN MOISE CAMPO
Rio del Duca Rio San Vidal SANTO CAMPO STEFANO CAMPO MAURIZIO SAN C LARGA XXII MARZO C BAROZZI 15 - 16 GIARDINETTI REALI San Marco
SAN VIDAL CAMPO Rio del Santíssimo C D. DOSE D. PONTE Rio di San Maurizio Rio S Maria d Giglio CALLE GRITTI Rio dell’Albero Rio San Moisè San Marco Giardinetti sights are also shown on
Vallaresso
C a n a l
G r a n d e
Gíglio SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE the Venice Street Finder
Sights at a Glance lists San Giorgio
the chapter’s sights by on pages 288–97.
0 metres 250 C a n a l e d e l l a G r a z i a Teatro Verde
category: Churches; See also Street Finder 0 yards 250
Museums and Galleries; maps 6, 7 Splendid mosaics inside the domes of Basilica San Marco For keys to symbols see back flap
Historic Buildings; Palaces; 94  VENICE AREA B Y AREA SAN M ARC O  95
Streets, Bridges and Squares. Street-by-Street: Around La Fenice SAN POLO AND
West of the huge expanse of the ever-crowded Piazza San Campo San Fantin has a SANTA CROCE
Marco there is a labyrinth of alleys to explore. At the centre of San Fantin, with a
late Renaissance church,
this part of the sestiere is Campo San Fantin, flanked by the particularly beautiful apse
Renaissance church of San Fantin. Nearby is the Ateneo designed by Jacopo
Veneto, formerly a scuola whose members had the unenviable Sansovino. DORSODURO
role of escorting prisoners to the scaffold. The narrow streets MANIN CAMPO C A L L E D E I F U S E R I
around these sights have some wonderfully exotic little CALLE D LOCANDE Locator Map
shops, while the Calle Larga XXII Marzo, further south, boasts
See Street Finder, map 7
Street-by-Street Map big names in Italian fashion. The quarter in general has some C D C O R T E S I A The statue of Daniele Manin, leader
excellent restaurants but, being San Marco, the prices
of the 1848 uprising, stands on
in the majority of establishments are fairly steep.
Campo Manin gazing towards the
2This gives a bird’s-eye C A L L E D V E R O N A R I O D I S A N L U C A R I O F U S E R I house where he once lived.
view of the heart of R I O D V E R O N A w Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo
This palazzo is often difficult to find, but
r . La Fenice
The opera house worth seeking out for its fairy-tale
external stairway (c.1499).
each sightseeing area. phoenix”) after a fire in C D E I B A R C A R O L I
gained its name (“the
1836. Destroyed by fire
again in 1996, it is now
C DEL FRUTTAROL C DI PISCINA
beautifully restored.
PISC DI
FREZZERIA
CALLE DELLA FENICE FANTIN SAN CAMPO
Stars indicate the sights that no C A L L E B O G N O L O F R E Z Z E R I A
visitor should miss.
RIO DELLE VESTE P I S C S M O I S E R I O D E I B A R C A R O L I S A L S A N M O I S E Frezzeria, in medieval
times, was the street
S A N
M O I S E
purchase their arrows
The Rio delle Veste leads past the rear of the theatre. C A L L E D V E S T E C A M P O where citizens went to
This is the route taken by those fortunate enough to (frecce). Its shops now
arrive for their night out by gondola. RIO S MARIA D GIGLIO C A L L E D E L P I O V A N R I O D E L L’ A L B E R O C A L L E L A R G A X X I I sell exotic clothes.
M A R Z O
98  VENICE AREA B Y AREA SAN M ARC O  99 Calle Larga XXII
0 metres 75
Marzo was named
0 yards 75 after 22 March
1848, the day of
which is squeezed between alleys, lined by small shops and a San Zulian e Santa Maria Zobenigo Manin’s rebellion. q . San Moisè
The carvings feature the Barbaro
shops along the Mercerie. The boutiques. The 17th-century Campo San Zulian. Map 7 B2. family, who paid for the church Today the street is The exuberant Baroque façade of
Key
present church was designed English author John Evelyn Tel 041 523 53 83. 4 San Marco. façade. Ground-level reliefs show best known for its San Moisè (c.1668) was funded by a
by Giorgio Spavento in the early described it as “the most Open 8:30am–7pm daily. 5 in towns where the family held high- trendy designer legacy from the patrician Vincenzo Fini,
Suggested route
16th century, and continued by delicious streete in the World English: 10:30am Sun. ranking posts. boutiques. whose bust features above a side door.
Tullio Lombardo and Jacopo for the sweetnesse of it …
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp232–5 and pp242–9
Sansovino. The pictorial tapisstry’d as it were, with Cloth On the busy Mercerie, the
highlight is Titian’s Annunciation of Gold, rich Damasks & other church of San Zulian (or
(1566) over the third altar on the silk”. He wrote of perfumers, Giuliano) provides a refuge
right. Nearby, Sansovino’s apothecary shops and from the crowded alleys.
monument to Doge Francesco nightingales in cages. Today all Its interior features gilded
Venier (1556–61) is one of this has been replaced with woodwork, 16th- and
several Mannerist tombs in the fashions, footwear and glass. 17th-century paintings, and
church. At the southern sculpture. The central panel A suggested route for
On the high altar is Titian’s end, the relief over of the frescoed ceiling
Transfiguration of Christ (1560). St George and Dragon bas-relief on a corner the first archway on portrays The Apotheosis
The end of the right transept is of the Mercerie the left portrays the of St Julian, a walk covers the more
dominated by a vast monument woman who in painted in 1585
to Caterina Cornaro, Queen of p Mercerie 1310 accidentally by Palma il
Cyprus (see p47). Executed by Map 7 B2. 4 San Marco or Rialto. stopped a revolt. Giovane. The
the sculptor Bernardino Contino She dropped her 16th-century church interesting streets in the area.
in c.1580–84, the tomb shows Divided into the Merceria pestle out of the façade was designed
the queen handing over her dell’Orologio, Merceria di San window, killing the by Sansovino and paid
kingdom to the doge. Zulian and Merceria di San standard-bearer of for by the rich and
Salvatore, this is, and always has a rebel army. They Bronze statue of immodest physician
o Campo San been, a principal shopping retreated, and the Tommaso Rangone Tommaso Rangone.
thoroughfare. Linking Piazza San woman was given a
His bronze statue
Bartolomeo Marco with the Rialto, it is made guarantee that her rent stands out against the white
Map 7 B1. 4 Rialto. from a string of narrow, bustling would never be raised. Istrian stone walls.
Close to the Rialto, the square
of San Bartolomeo bustles with s San Giorgio In the Chapel of the Dead is
life, particularly in the early his last work, The Deposition
Courtyard of the Palazzo Pesaro, where Fortuny lived evening, when young Venetians Maggiore (1592–4), finished by his
rendezvous here. They meet at Map 8 D4. Tel 041 522 78 27. 4 San son Domenico.
u Museo Fortuny The large rooms and portego cafés, bars or by the statue of Giorgio. Open 9:30am– 12:30pm, The top of the tall campanile, Detailed information
Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei, Campo San make a splendid and Carlo Goldoni (1707–93), 2:30–4:30pm (later in summer). & reached by a lift, affords a
Foundation: Tel 041 524 01 19. Open
Beneto, San Marco 3958. Map 6 F2. appropriate setting for the Venice’s prolific and most 10am–5pm Sat & Sun (Oct–Mar: to superb panorama of the
Tel 041 520 09 95. 4 Sant’Angelo. precious Fortuny fabrics. Woven celebrated playwright. His 4pm). & 8 in English: 11am, 1pm & city and lagoon. 3on each sight
Open during exhibitions only. & ^ with gold and silver threads, statue, in a fitting spot for a 3pm (also 5pm in summer). ∑ cini.it Centuries ago Benedictine
∑ fortuny.visitmuve.it these were created by Fortuny’s writer who drew his inspiration monks occupied the original Cloisters designed by Palladio in the monastery
reintroduction of Renaissance from daily social intercourse, is Appearing like a stage set monastery, which was rebuilt of San Giorgio Maggiore
Known principally for his fantastic techniques and use of by Antonio del Zotto (1883). across the water from the in the 13th century following All the sights in Venice are
pleated silk dresses, Fortuny was ancient dyes. The collection Piazzetta, the little island of an earth quake. It 1797 (see p50) the monastery
also a painter, sculptor, set also includes paintings by San Giorgio Maggiore has later became a was suppressed and its
designer, photographer and Fortuny (less impressive than been captured on canvas centre of learning treasures plundered.
scientist. One of his inventions the fabrics), decorative panels countless times. and a residence for In 1829 the island became a described individually.
was the Fortuny Dome, which is and a few of the finely pleated, The church and monastery, eminent foreign free port, and in 1851 the head-
used in theatre performances to clinging silk dresses regarded built between 1559 and 1580, visitors. Following quarters of the artillery. By this
create the illusion of sky. as a milestone in early 20th- are among Andrea Palladio’s the Fall of the time it had changed out of
Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo, century women’s fashion. greatest architectural Republic in recognition. The complex Addresses, telephone
or Don Mariano as he liked to achievements. The church’s regained its role as an active
be called, was born in 1871 in i San Salvatore temple front and the spacious, cultural centre when the
Granada and moved to Venice serene interior with its perfect monastery, embracing Palladio’s numbers, nearest vaporetto
in 1889. In the early 20th century Campo San Salvatore. Map 7 B1. proportions and cool beauty cloisters, refectory and library,
he purchased the Palazzo Pesaro, Tel 041 523 67 17. 4 Rialto. are typically Palladian in that was purchased in 1951 by
a late Gothic palazzo that had Open 9am–noon, 4–6:30pm Mon– they are modelled on the Count Vittorio Cini. Today it is
originally been owned by the Sat. ∑ chiesasansalvador.it Classical style of ancient a thriving centre of Venetian stop, opening hours and
fabulously rich and influential Rome. Within the church, culture, with international
Pesaro family. Fortuny spent the The interior of this church is an the major works of art are events and exhibitions.
remainder of his life here and excellent example of Venetian the two late Tintorettos on In the middle of the park on
both the house and its contents Renaissance architecture. If the the chancel walls: The Last the island is an evocative open- information on admission
were bequeathed to the city by main door is closed visitors can The beautiful Renaissance interior of the Supper and Gathering of Palladio’s church of San Giorgio Maggiore on the air amphitheatre, or Teatro Verde,
his wife in 1956. enter by the side entrance, church of San Salvatore the Manna (both 1594). island of the same name of white Vicenza stone.
charges are also provided.
006-007_EW_Venice.indd 6 8/18/17 11:32 AM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
How to use this book (Source v1.2) “UK” LAYER
Date 5th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm