Page 9 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Venice & The Veneto

HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7
THE VENE T O AREA B Y AREA  167
THE VENETO PLAIN
The great arc of land that forms the Veneto Plain is one of
tremendous contrast, and has much to offer the visitor.
Its ancient cities are rich in history and their magnificent
architecture is world-renowned. The source of the region’s
wealth is manifest in the industrial landscapes around the
towns, but these are never far from beautiful countryside, Introduction
which includes the green Euganean Hills, calm lagoons and
1The landscape, history and
the undulating vine-clad foothills of the stunning Dolomites. The Veneto Area by Area
The area known as the Veneto Plain Wealth from agriculture, commerce
sweeps round from the Po river delta and the spoils of war paid for the
in the southwest to the mountains that beautification of these cities through the character of each region is In this book, the Veneto has been
form the border between Italy and construction of Renaissance palaces and
Slovenia. The whole region is crossed by public buildings, many of them designed
a series of rivers, canals and waterways, by the region’s great architect, Andrea described here, showing divided into three regions, each
all of which converge in the Adriatic Sea. Palladio. His villas can be seen all over
The river-borne silt deposits that the Veneto, symbols of the idyllic and
created the Venetian Lagoon cover the leisured existence once enjoyed by how the area has developed of which has a separate chapter.
region, making the land fertile. The the region’s aristocrats.
Romans established their frontier posts The symbols of modern prosperity – over the centuries and what
here, and these survive today as the factories and scarred landscapes – are The most interesting sights to
great cities of Vicenza, Padua and Treviso. encountered frequently, especially
Their strategic position at the hub of the around the town of Mestre. Yet there it offers to the visitor today.
empire’s road network enabled them are areas of extraordinary beauty as well. visit have been numbered on
to prosper under Roman rule, as they Petrarch (see p188), the great medieval
continued to do under the benign rule Romantic poet, so loved the area that
of the Venetian empire more than he made his home among the gently
1,000 years later. wooded Euganean Hills. a Regional Map.
168  THE VENE T O AREA B Y AREA THE VENE T O PLAIN  169
Exploring the Veneto Plain Getting Around Each area of the Veneto can be
services make this region easy to explore by
The landscape of the Veneto Plain is as flat as a board, but it is far An extensive rail network and good bus
from dull. Villagers in the small communities dotted throughout public transport. Roads are heavily used, so quickly identified by its colour coding.
the region used to compete to build the tallest church tower, avoid cities and autostrade during rush hours.
and these seemingly needle-thin landmarks
soaring skywards draw the traveller on.
Great stone castles, dating from the Trento Ghértele Follina Vittorio Veneto
14th century, rise on almost every
promontory, each with a
The town of Bassano del Grappa, nestled in the Alps A l t o p i a n o Campanella VALDOBBIADENE Palladio’s Villa Rotonda near the town of Vicenza
Fresco depicting Christ in Paradise (1378) by Giusto de’ Menabuoi in the Baptistry, Padua Val d’Ástico Asiago Pederobba Vidór CONEGLIANO
backdrop on clear days of
the distant Alps. Valstagna Susegana Monticano Udine,
Trieste
Cavrari Leghe Tezze
Zara
Livanta
Arsiero Lusiana Tórtima ASOLO Ciano Spresiano Oderzo Motta di Annone PORTOGRUARO
Caltrano Ástico BASSANO Montebelluna Piave Fossalta Véneto Regional Map
MAROSTICA DEL GRAPPA Candelú Maggiore Santo Stino Lugugnana
Sights at a Glance Schio Fanzolo Vascón Ponte di Livenza
THIENE Brenta CASTELFRANCO di Piave
1 Vicenza pp170–75 Sandrigo Longa CITTADELLA Paese TREVISO Ceggia Livenza Tagliamento 2This shows the road network
2 Thiene Quinto San Giorgio
3 Marostica Malo Fontaniva Zero di Treviso Sile San Donà di Livenza Bibione
4 Bassano del Grappa Casale sul Sile di Piave and gives an illustrated
5 Cittadella VENETO Caposile Eraclea CAORLE
6 Castelfranco Piazzola Camposampiero Scorzè Mogliano
Veneto
7 Asolo Key VICENZA sul Brenta Noale Portegrandi Piave Eraclea Mare
8 Valdobbiadene Major road Martellago Jésolo Cortellazzo overview of the whole region.
9 Treviso Minor road Camisano Mirano Spinea Lido
Vicentino
0 Conegliano Longare Limena MESTRE di Jésolo
q Portogruaro Secondary road Oriago Venézia Ve n e t a Cavallino
w Caorle Motorway Monti Berici Bacchiglione Punta Sabbioni All the sights are numbered
e Mestre Motorway under Verona Bastia PADOVA Dolo Brenta Fusina (Venice) Lido
construction
r Padua (Padova) Barbarano (PADUA) Strà
pp180–87 Main railway
t Euganean Hills Minor Orgiano Abano Terme Brenta Canal L a g u n a and there are also useful tips
y Montagnana railway Scenic route Montegrotto
Terme
u Este Noventa EUGANEAN Corte
i Monselice Regional border Vicentina Vo HILLS Bovolenta Piove Pellestrina on getting around the region
o Polesine and Rovigo Arquà Petrarca di Sacco
p Chioggia Mantova
MONSELICE Pontelongo CHIOGGIA
MONTAGNANA by car, bus and train.
ESTE
Urbana Chiesazza Solesino Bagnoli Cona Treponti S. Anna
di Sopra
Fratta
Stanghella
Cavarzere
Badia Ádige Ádige
Lendinara Rosolina
ROVIGO Adria
Fratta
Polesine P O L E S I N E
Porto Viro The colourful quayside market in the town of Chioggia, the
Bagnolo Bianco lagoon’s principal fishing port
di Po P o l e s i n e Taglia di Po La Pila
Polesella Par co R eg ionale
Chiavicone Po Ariano Po Delta del Po
nel Polesine Rivá
Po Porto Tolle
Scardovari
Ferrara, Cassella
Bologna 0 kilometres 20
0 miles 10
The castellated walls of Montagnana, dating from medieval times
For additional map symbols see back flap
182  THE VENE T O AREA B Y AREA P ADU A  183
Exploring Padua Eremitani Museums
Padua is an old university town with an illustrious academic This major museum complex occupies a group of
Detailed information on sights. The first is the Scrovegni Chapel (see pp184–5) in the 14th-century monastic buildings attached to the church of
history. Rich in art and architecture, it boasts two outstanding
the Eremitani, a reclusive Augustinian Order. The admission
ticket includes entry to the Scrovegni Chapel (see pp184–5),
north of the city, which is renowned for Giotto’s lyrical frescoes.
3each sight Close to the railway station, it forms part of the Eremitani Sundial on the façade of the Palazzo which stands on the same site, overlooking the city’s Roman
museums complex. The second is the Basilica di Sant’Antonio,
amphitheatre, and to the Archaeology Museum, the Bottacin
one of Italy’s most popular pilgrim shrines, which forms the
della Ragione
Museum of coins and medals, and the Medieval and Modern
focal point for a number of sights in the south of the city
All the important towns and (see p186). A combined museum ticket is available. P Palazzo della Ragione Art Museum, all of which are housed around the cloisters.
Piazza delle Erbe. Tel 049 820 50 06.
Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 7pm in
summer). Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. The Museums
other places to visit are described & = 7 The highlight of the rich
archaeological collection is
The “Palace of Reason”, also known
the temple-like tomb of the
as the “Salone” by locals, was built
individually. They are listed in to serve as Padua’s law court and Volumni family, dating from the Angels in Armour (15th century) by
council chamber in 1218. The vast
Guariento in the Art Museum
1st century AD. Among several
other Roman tombstones from
main hall was originally frescoed
by the celebrated artist Giotto, but the Veneto region is one to the especially the comical Drinking
order, following the numbering Detail from the Egyptian room, upper floor of the Caffè Pedrocchi fire destroyed his work in 1420. young dancer Claudia Toreuma Satyr by Il Riccio (1470–1532).
– sadly, a fairly dull inscribed
The frescoes that survive today are
Coin collectors should make
by the relatively unknown Nicola
a point of visiting the Bottacin
column rather than a portrait.
university building is mostly
The collection also includes
P Caffè Pedrocchi
Miretto, though their astrological
Museum. Among the exhibits
on the Regional Map. Within each Via VIII Febbraio 15. Tel 049 878 12 31. used today for graduation theme is fascinating. The tomb of the Volumni family in the some fine mosaics, along with there is an almost complete set
of Venetian coinage and some
several impressive life-size
Open daily (Jun–Oct: Tue–Sun).
The Salone is breathtaking in its
ceremonies. Originally it housed
Museo del Risorgimento e dell’Età
archaeological collection
very rare examples of Roman
the medical faculty, renowned
statues depicting muscular
sheer size. It is Europe’s biggest
Contem poranea: Tel 049 820 50 07.
medallions.
undivided medieval hall, 80 m
Roman deities and toga-clad
throughout Europe. Among its
town or city, there is detailed Open 9.30am–12.30pm, 3:30–6pm famous teachers and students (260 ft) long, 27 m (90 ft) wide Eremitani Church dignitaries. For most visitors the The massive Medieval and
Tue–Sun. Closed Aug. &
and 27 m (90 ft) high. The scale is
was Gabriele Fallopio (1523–62),
Renaissance bronzes are likely
Modern Art Museum is well
∑ caffepedrocchi.it
reinforced by the wooden horse
to be the most appealing
after whom the Fallopian tubes
worth a visit. It covers the
Alongside the museum com-
information on important Grand cafés have long played an are named. displayed at one end – a massive plex is the Eremitani church feature of the museum, history of Venetian art, with
important role in the intellectual
Elena Lucrezia Corner Piscopia
paintings from Giotto to the
(1276–1306), with its magni-
beast, copied from Donatello’s
was the first female graduate in
life of northern Italy, and many
ficent roof and wall tombs.
1700s. Another section looks
Gattamelata statue (see p187) in
philosophical issues have been
1466 and originally made to be
Interred here is Marco
1678 – long before women
at Giotto and his influence on
buildings and other sights. thrashed out at the Caffè could study at many of Europe’s pulled in procession during Benavides (1489–1582), a local art, using the Crucifix from
other universities. Her statue is
Paduan festivities.
the Scrovegni Chapel as its
Pedrocchi since it first opened
professor of law at the city
centrepiece. The Crucifix is
The walls are covered in
in 1831. Politics super seded
university whose mausoleum
on the staircase leading to the
philosophy when it became a upper gallery of the 16th- Miretto’s frescoes (1420–25), a was designed by Ammannati, flanked by an army of angels
centre of the Risor gimento century courtyard. total of 333 panels depicting the a Renaissance (late 15th century)
movement, dedicated to Visitors on the tour are shown months of the year with architect from painted in gorgeous
liberating Italy from Austrian rule; the pulpit Galileo used when he appropriate gods, zodiacal signs Florence. Sadly colours by the
it was the scene of uprisings in taught here from 1592 until and seasonal activities. missing from the artist Guariento.
1848, for which several student 1610. They also see the world’s Also within the palazzo is the church are Another 15th-
leaders were executed. Later it oldest surviving anatomy theatre Stone of Shame, on which bank- Andrea Mantegna’s century painting
became famous as the café that (1594), viewing the room from rupts were exposed to ridicule celebrated frescoes worth a look is
never closed its doors. These days the centre looking up. before they were sent into exile. of the lives of St James Portrait of a Young
people come to talk, read, play and St Christopher (1454–7), Senator by Giovanni Bellini.
cards or watch the world go by which were destroyed during
as they eat and drink. a bombing raid in 1944. Two VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The upstairs rooms, decorated scenes from this magnificent
in Moorish, Egyptian and Greek work survive in the Ovetari Practical Information
styles, are now the premises of Chapel, south of the sanctuary. Piazza Eremitani 8.
a museum. The Martyrdom of St James was Tel 049 820 45 50.
reconstructed from salvaged ∑ turismopadova.it
Stars indicate the sights that no P Palazzo del Bo (University) fragments, and The Martyrdom Open 9am–7pm Tue–Sun.
Only chapel open Mon.
of St Christopher was removed
Via VIII Febbraio 2. Tel 049 827 51 11.
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 & 26 Dec.
carefully and stored elsewhere
Open Tue, Thu & Sat am, Mon, Wed
visitor should miss. & Fri pm (may vary, phone to check). before the bombing. Other- Early 14th-century crucifix on loan & ^ = 7
wise only photographs on the
Transport
& 8
@
Named after a tavern called Il Bo
walls remain to hint at the
(the ox), the historic main The 16th-century galleried anatomy theatre in the Palazzo del Bo quality of the lost works. from the Scrovegni Chapel
174  THE VENE T O AREA B Y AREA VICENZA  175
Vicenza: Teatro Olimpico Courtyard VISITORS’ CHECKLIST For all the top sights,
Sculptures
Europe’s oldest surviving indoor theatre, the The courtyard of the Practical Information
former castle is
Teatro Olimpico is an elegant and remarkable decorated with Piazza Matteotti. Tel 0444 22 28 00. a Visitors’ Checklist provides
∑ olimpicovicenza.it
structure, largely made of wood and plaster and sculpture donated by Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun (last
painted to look like marble. Fashionable members of the adm: 4:30pm). Regular theatre
architect Andrea Palladio (see pp28–9) began Olympic Academy, the performances. Closed 1 Jan, the practical information you
learned body that
25 Dec. & 7 =
work on the design in 1579, but he died the built the theatre.
following year without finishing it. His pupil, Transport
Vincenzo Scamozzi, took over the project and will need to plan your visit.
@ to Piazza Matteotti.
completed the theatre in time for its ambitious
opening performance of Sophocles’ tragic Armoury Gateway
drama, Oedipus Rex, on 3 March 1585. This stone gateway, with its military-style
Bacchantes carvings, leads from Piazza Matteotti into the
Euripides’ Greek tragedy is still picturesque theatre courtyard.
performed using Scamozzi’s
versatile scenery.
The top sights
. Odeon Frescoes
The gods of Mount Olympus,
after which the theatre is 4These are given two or more
named, decorate the
Odeon, a room used
full pages. Historic buildings
for music recitals.
are dissected to reveal their
interiors; museums and
galleries have colour-coded
floorplans to help you locate
KEY
1 The Anteodeon’s frescoes the most interesting exhibits.
(1595) depict the theatre’s opening
performance. Oil lamps from the
original stage set are also on display.
2 Main ticket office Costume Designs for Sofonisba
3 The auditorium was designed Ancient Greek vases inspired the
by Palladio to resemble the outdoor . Stage Set costumes for this tragedy (1562)
theatres of ancient Greece and Scamozzi’s scenery by Palladio’s patron, G G Trissino.
Rome, such as the arena at Verona represents the Greek city
(see p197), with a semicircle of of Thebes. The streets are
“stone” benches (actually made cleverly painted in Façade Statues
of wood) and a ceiling painted perspective and rise at a The toga-clad figures are
to portray the sky. steep angle to give the portraits of sponsors who paid
illusion of great length. for the theatre’s construction.
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