Page 98 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Venice & The Veneto
P. 98
96 VENICE AREA B Y AREA
9 Harry’s Bar q San Moisè
Calle Vallaresso 1323. Map 7 B3. Campo San Moisè. Map 7 A3.
4 San Marco. See also Restaurants Tel 041 724 10 44. 4 San Marco.
p243, Bars and Cafés pp250–51. Open 9:30am–12:30pm & 3:30–
7:30pm Mon–Sat, 9:30am–12:30pm &
Celebrated for cocktails, 2:30–6:30pm Sun.
carpaccio and American clientele,
Harry’s Bar is famous throughout A church that people love
Venice. Founded in 1931 by the to hate, San Moisè displays
late Giuseppe Cipriani, it was a ponderous Baroque façade.
financed by a Bostonian called Completed in 1668, it is cov ered
Harry who thought Venice had in grimy statues, swags and busts.
a dearth of decent bars. They John Ruskin, in a characteristic
chose a storeroom at the Grand antiBaroque outrage,
Canal end of the Calle Vallaresso described it as the
as their location, conveniently clumsiest church
close to the Piazza San Marco. in Venice. The interior
Since then, has a mixed collection
the bar of paintings and
has seen sculpture from
a steady the 17th and
stream of 18th centuries.
American visitors, In the nave is
among them Ernest the tombstone
Hemingway, who Ernest Hemingway, a regular of John Law, a
used to come here at Harry’s Bar Scottish financier
after shooting in the who founded
lagoon. The bar became the the Compagnie d’Occident to The external stairway of the Palazzo
most popular venue in Venice, develop the Mississippi Valley. Contarini del Bovolo
patronized by royalty, film stars His shares collapsed in 1770 in
and heads of state. the noto rious South Sea Bubble, stairway. In Venetian dialect
These days there are far and he fled to Venice, surviving bovolo means “snail shell”,
more American tourists than on his winnings at the Ridotto. appropriate to the spiral shape
famous figures, often there of the stairway. The ticket
to sample the Bellini cocktail for the Palazzo Contarini del
that Cipriani invented (see p243). Bovolo also admits you to
Aesthetically, the place is unre the Tintoretto room located
markable and there is no on the second floor, which
terrace for meals alfresco. houses a collection of art from
the 16th and 17th centuries.
0 Ridotto
e Santa Maria
Calle del Ridotto, 1332 San Marco. Zobenigo
Map 7 B3. Tel 041 520 02 11. 4 San
Marco. Open to hotel guests and on Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. Map 6
request. ∑ hotelmonaco.it F3. Tel 041 275 04 62. 4 Santa Maria
del Giglio. Open 10am–4pm Mon–Sat.
In an effort to control the Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 15 Aug, 25 Dec.
gambling mania that swept Façade of San Moisè, encrusted with & ^ 9 = ∑ chorusvenezia.org
Venice in the 1600s, the State Baroque ornamentation
allowed Marco Dandolo to use Named after the Jubanico family,
his palace as the first public w Palazzo Contarini who are said to have founded it
gaming house in Europe. In 1638 in the 9th century, this church is
the Ridotto was opened, with del Bovolo also referred to as “del Giglio” (“of
the proviso that players came Corte Contarini del Bovolo, 4299 San the lily”). The exuberant Baroque
disguised in a mask. In 1774 the Marco. Map 7 A2. Tel 041 309 66 05. façade was financed by the
Great Council closed the casino’s 4 Rialto or Sant’Angelo. Open 10am– affluent Barbaro family and was
doors on account of the number 1:30pm, 2–6pm daily. & 8 ∑ scala used to glorify their naval and
of Venetians ruined at its tables. contarinidelbovolo.com diplomatic achievements.
In 1947, the old Palazzo Inside is a tiny museum of
Dandolo was converted into a Tucked away in a maze of alleys church ornaments and paintings
theatre. Now restored, it is part (follow signs from Campo including The Sacred Family
of the Monaco and Grand Canal Manin), this palazzo is best attributed to Rubens and
hotel (see p232). known for its graceful external two works by Tintoretto.
096-097_EW_Venice.indd 96 8/18/17 11:15 AM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.1)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
