Page 101 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Venice & The Veneto

SAN M ARC O  99

alleys, lined by small shops and a San Zulian
boutiques. The 17th­century Campo San Zulian. Map 7 B2.
English author John Evelyn Tel 041 523 53 83. 4 San Marco.
described it as “the most Open 8:30am–7pm daily. 5 in
delicious streete in the World English: 10:30am Sun.
for the sweetnesse of it …
tapisstry’d as it were, with Cloth On the busy Mercerie, the
of Gold, rich Damasks & other church of San Zulian (or
silk”. He wrote of perfumers, Giuliano) provides a refuge
apothecary shops and from the crowded alleys.
nightingales in cages. Today all Its interior features gilded
this has been replaced with woodwork, 16th­ and
fashions, footwear and glass. 17th­century paintings, and
At the southern sculpture. The central panel
end, the relief over of the frescoed ceiling
St George and Dragon bas-relief on a corner the first archway on portrays The Apotheosis
of the Mercerie the left portrays the of St Julian,
woman who in painted in 1585
p Mercerie 1310 accidentally by Palma il
stopped a revolt. Giovane. The
Map 7 B2. 4 San Marco or Rialto.
She dropped her 16th­century church
Divided into the Merceria pestle out of the façade was designed
dell’Orologio, Merceria di San window, killing the by Sansovino and paid
Zulian and Merceria di San standard­bearer of for by the rich and
Salvatore, this is, and always has a rebel army. They Bronze statue of immodest physician
been, a principal shopping retreated, and the Tommaso Rangone Tommaso Rangone.
thoroughfare. Linking Piazza San woman was given a His bronze statue
Marco with the Rialto, it is made guarantee that her rent stands out against the white
from a string of narrow, bustling would never be raised. Istrian stone walls.
s San Giorgio In the Chapel of the Dead is
Maggiore his last work, The Deposition
(1592–4), finished by his
Map 8 D4. Tel 041 522 78 27. 4 San son Domenico.
Giorgio. Open 9:30am– 12:30pm, The top of the tall campanile,
2:30–4:30pm (later in summer). & reached by a lift, affords a
Foundation: Tel 041 271 04 02. Open superb panorama of the
10am–5pm Sat & Sun (Oct–Mar: to city and lagoon.
4pm). & 8 in English: 11am, 1pm &
3pm (also 5pm in summer). ∑ cini.it Centuries ago Benedictine
monks occupied the original Cloisters designed by Palladio in the monastery
Appearing like a stage set monastery, which was rebuilt of San Giorgio Maggiore
across the water from the in the 13th century following
Piazzetta, the little island of an earth quake. It 1797 (see p50) the monastery
San Giorgio Maggiore has later became a was suppressed and its
been captured on canvas centre of learning treasures plundered.
countless times. and a residence for In 1829 the island became a
The church and monastery, eminent foreign free port, and in 1851 the head­
built between 1559 and 1580, visitors. Following quarters of the artillery. By this
are among Andrea Palladio’s the Fall of the time it had changed out of
greatest architectural Republic in recognition. The complex
achievements. The church’s regained its role as an active
temple front and the spacious, cultural centre when the
serene interior with its perfect monastery, embracing Palladio’s
proportions and cool beauty cloisters, refectory and library,
are typically Palladian in that was purchased in 1951 by
they are modelled on the Count Vittorio Cini. Today it is
Classical style of ancient a thriving centre of Venetian
Rome. Within the church, culture, with international
the major works of art are events and exhibitions.
the two late Tintorettos on In the middle of the park on
the chancel walls: The Last the island is an evocative open­
Supper and Gathering of Palladio’s church of San Giorgio Maggiore on the air amphitheatre, or Teatro Verde,
the Manna (both 1594). island of the same name of white Vicenza stone.

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