Page 15 - Delicious - UK (February 2020)
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people.







                               THE INTERVIEW: CLAUDE BOSI



                        “I DON’T TAKE





                                  SUCCESS






                     FOR GRANTED”






               Phoebe Stone finds out what drew the French chef

               to cooking despite an early disaster in the kitchen




                       e’s the chef of the two-        on the young, ambitious chef.
                       Michelin-star London              “All the seasons have a favourite
                       institution Bibendum, but       ingredient. It’s hard to pick one –
                       Claude Bosi’s kitchen debut     but English asparagus and peas are
             H was far from successful.                some of my favourites.” Travel also
             “The first dish I tried to cook was a      fuels his creativity, but Bosi is frank
             fried egg – I was 12,” he recalls. “The   about the dominance of his culinary               I loved the teamwork of the
             pan caught fire, so I threw water          roots. “I’m French – you can’t take       kitchen – the way it’s a family that
             on it – that’s when I learned: oil        that away,” he says. “My food is
             and water do not go well together!        based on a French foundation –                   looks after one another
             I nearly burned the kitchen down.”        classic dishes with a modern touch.”
                Growing up in Lyon, where his            Bosi opened Hibiscus in Ludlow,        and his wife Lucy have a young son.
             Italian parents ran a bistro, Bosi        Shropshire, in 2000, which won two       “I love going for a walk with him or
             recalls how lucky he was to be able       Michelin stars, then relocated the       playing football – spending quality
             to nip home from school for the plat      restaurant to London in 2007 –           time with family is important to me.”
             du jour. “Mum made fantastic              regaining its stars – before taking        A good work/life balance is hard
             dishes, such as quenelles de brochet      the wheel at Bibendum in 2016.           – Michelin stars bring prestige but
             (pike dumplings),” he reminisces.         Launched by Sir Terence Conran           they also bring pressure: “I don’t
                With such a food-focused               in the late 1980s with Simon             take success for granted,” says Bosi.
             upbringing Bosi’s path to chefdom         Hopkinson in the kitchen, the            “You have to realise every day is a
             seems unsurprising, but he says it        restaurant in the art deco Michelin      new day, what happened the day
             took a stint in a brasserie early in      Tyre Company building quickly            before is the day before, and today
             his career to seal the deal. “I loved     became the place to be. It has finally    is a new customer. That’s what
             the teamwork of the kitchen – it was      been awarded two Michelin stars.         I love about the restaurant life.”
             a family that would look after and          Bosi’s hectic schedule means           Claude Bosi at Bibendum is in London’s
             support each other. Apart from that,      it’s rare for him to create culinary     South Kensington; claudebosi.com
             I loved creating something from raw       fireworks at home. “When you cook
             ingredients. And people coming to         all week, you just want a quick bite
             eat it: it’s such a privilege.”           somewhere relaxed,” he explains.
                Following a move to Paris in the       Does he have a recommendation?             WHAT’S YOUR...
             1990s, Bosi worked under two chefs        “Near Clapham in south London
             who became his biggest inspirations:      there’s a local bistro called Soif with    GO-TO SNACK?                of kit but we couldn’t
            PORTRAIT: PATRICIA NIVEN  taught Bosi how to run a first-class  all about the tastes of home, though.  DESERT ISLAND DISH?   our kitchen porter!
                                                       a good wine list and cheese.” It’s not
                                                                                                                              function without Danny,
                                                                                                  Mars Bar
             first Alain Passard at L’Arpège, who
             restaurant, then Alain Ducasse.
                                                                                                                              FAVOURITE MUSIC
                                                       “Sometimes it’s Chinese or Indian
                                                                                                  Mash and caviar
                                                                                                  BEST KITCHEN KIT
             The latter’s commitment to buying
                                                       food: a different style of restaurant
                                                                                                                              WHILE COOKING? It
                                                                                                                              has to be James Brown
                                                       where you can be a bit challenged.”
                                                                                                  Well, he’s not a piece
             only the best produce at the best
             time of year had an indelible effect
                                                         Family life is full-on, too, as Bosi
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