Page 17 - Delicious - UK (February 2020)
P. 17

food for thought.































































































             Charles Spence, an experimental           restaurants. It deters all but the most  alone? Are you in the middle of an
             psychologist at Oxford University,        pathological of Instagrammers, and       anecdote? A divorce? They know.
                                                       there’s something bonding about
                                                                                                  Naturally, in a restaurant I want
             claims loud music suppresses the
           ILLUSTRATION: SAUL HERRERA/GETTY IMAGES  you! It could be the world’s best  read the menu, as though we’re all  to leave happier than when I arrived.
                                                       everyone getting out their phones to
                                                                                                to be fed, but more than that, I want
             ability to taste. Yes, professor, thank
             meal, but I’d hardly notice. I know
                                                                                                I want to hand over the reins of
                                                       trying to earn our Brownies badge.
                                                         Of course, the most important
             places play loud music to keep trade
                                                                                                responsibility for my life for a few
                                                                                                hours. I want to feel welcome,
                                                       element of any restaurant is its staff.
             brisk, but in my case it’s so brisk I’m
                                                                                                cosseted, adored (ok, you can dial it
                                                       The best have a peripheral vision and
             in and back out the door in a second.
                                                       an almost supernatural ability to
                                                                                                back on that last one). Do that and,
                After noise comes light or,
             preferably, a lack of it. I enjoy the
                                                                                                in the words of Randy Newman,
                                                       sense need. Do you require glasses
                                                       topping up? A chat? To be left
             crepuscular gloom of some modern
                                                                                                you’ve got a friend in me.
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