Page 89 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide 2016 - Austria
P. 89

NOR TH  OF  m a R ia H il F e R  s TR asse      87


                                St Mary, Our Lady of   street market, held on the first
                                Perpetual Succour, built   weekend of each month and
                                in the late 17th century   prior to Christmas. Among the
                                on the site of an older   stalls with wood carvings, tie-
                                church, but was not   dyed fabrics and silver jewellery,
                                consecrated until 1730.   waiters from the local bars
                                Its façade is an austere   negotiate the busy crowds; there
                                pyramidal structure,   are some 58 bars in this small
                                rising to a bulbous   area, which contains just 138
                                steeple, and there are   houses. The number of bars
                                lively Rococo reliefs set   may change from one week
                                in its walls. In front of   to the next, but the bustling,
                                the church stands a   festive party atmosphere can
                                monu ment to the   be experienced almost every
                                composer Joseph Haydn   evening. The Spittelberg area
                                (see p28), who lived at   also comprises small art
                                this address for 12 years.  galleries, and artists display
                                  Mariahilfer Strasse    their work in the restaurants.
                                No. 45 is the longest     At one time, attractive bar
                                and most famous   maids offered “additional
       Schiele’s Kneeling Female Nude (1910), Museum of   double-exit house    services”, and legend has it that
       Modern Art, MuseumsQuartier  in Vienna, the birth-  Emperor Joseph II once decided
                                place in 1790 of the   to explore the Spittelberg district
       seminars, as well as Austria’s   popular Austrian playwright   for himself. However, when, in
       first centre for museum and   Ferdinand Raimund.  disguise, he entered the Witwe
       exhibition studies. Children            Bolte (Widow Bolte) restaurant,
       can play, explore and learn   o Spittelberg   still open today, he was uncere-
       about a variety of subjects in          moniously thrown out.
       the ZOOM Kindermuseum,    Map 1 C5. % Volkstheater. v 49.      Nos. 18 and 20 Spittelberggasse
       an unconven tional centre.  @ 48A. Amerlinghaus: Stiftgasse 8.   are fine Baroque houses.
         Amid this extraordinary   Tel 52 36 475. Open during events. (     The beautifully restored
       cultural setting, numerous   ∑ amerlinghaus.at  Amerlinghaus, in which the
       cafés, bars, green spaces,              painter Friedrich Amerling
       shops and bookstores invite   Spittelberg is the oldest and most   (1803–87) was born, is now
       visitors to relax.  colourful part of the elegant 7th   a cultural and community
                           District. In the 17th century, the   centre, and a restaurant.
                           cluster of streets between     A little further along, between
       i Mariahilfer       Siebensterngasse and Burggasse,  Siebensterngasse and Mariahilfer
       Strasse             around Spittelberggasse, was   Strasse, is an enclosed area
                           Vienna’s first immigrant worker   around former barracks now
       Map 4 A1, B1. % Westbahnhof,   district. Its inhabitants were   housing the Military Academy,
       Zieglergasse, Neubaugasse,   mainly craftsmen, merchants   and the Stiftkirche, topped with
       MuseumsQuartier. @ 2A, 13A.  and servants from Croatia and   an onion-shaped cupola, which
                           Hungary, brought here to work   serves as a garrison church.
       Mariahilfer Strasse is one of    at the court. Today, the district’s   Its walls are lined with very
       the longest streets in Vienna,    crafts heritage lives on in the   expressive Rococo reliefs.
       a main artery running west
       from the town centre to the
       area around Schönbrunn.
         The part between
       Getreidemarkt (Grain Market)
       and Westbahnhof (the Western
       Railway Station) is also the
       busiest shopping street in this
       part of the city. Here you will
       find Vienna’s largest department
       stores and its best window
       displays. Shopping tends to
       be better value here than in
       Kärntner Strasse, but is still
       more costly than in Meidling
       or Favoriten, for instance.
       Mariahilfer Strasse took its
       name from the church of    Community centre in Amerlinghaus, Spittelberg




   086-087_EW_Austria.indd   87                              03/09/15   5:41 pm
   84   85   86   87   88   89   90   91   92   93   94