Page 134 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

132 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

1 Hereford impressive height. The abbey was
Herefordshire; HR4 9BW dissolved in 1537 and reconsecrated
With its gentle hills and gardens, it is in 1634 as an Anglican church. There
easy to forget that in the Middle Ages are fine examples of 13th-century roof
Hereford saw fierce border skirmishes bosses, a number of interesting wall
between the Welsh and English, even paintings and a wooden musicians’
after the Saxon King Offa of Mercia gallery, which dates from the 1700s.
(AD 757–96) invaded Wales and built Take a relaxing river walk in the
his dyke. For earlier civilizations, visit Abbey Dore Court Gardens (open Apr–
Hereford Museum and Art Gallery Sep: Thu–Sun), just north of the church
(open Wed–Sat) on Broad Street and and signposted off the B4347.
see a Roman mosaic and coins, keys ª Take B4347 to A465 and turn right.
and bronzes found locally. Turn right to Llanfihangel Crucorney. Just
High above the River Wye, Hereford before the Skirrid Inn, Wales’s oldest pub,
Cathedral has Saxon origins and fine turn right to the priory and follow signs
Above Dore Abbey, founded by French Norman pillars, dog-tooth arches and to Cymyoy. Turn left at T-junction by
Cistercian monks in 1147 an ancient library. See, too, one of Coach House and right at end of road.
Britain’s finest treasures, the Mappa
VISITING HEREFORD Mundi, a map of the known world, 4 Vale of Ewyas
drawn on deer vellum in 1290. Llanthony, Monmouthshire; NP7 7NN
Parking Among the modern artworks are This is a beautiful glaciated valley,
One-hour parking at King Street and Simon Beer’s silver corona, above with woodlands and fertile farmland,
three-hour disabled-only parking at
Broad Street. the altar, and John Piper’s tapestries. offering good horse riding. Cwmyoy
Hereford is a big cider producer, Church sits on a geologically recent
Tourist Information so follow signs to the Cider Museum landslip which some say coincided
Butter Market, HR1 2AA; 01432 370
514; www.visitherefordshire.co.uk (open Mon–Sat) to learn the secrets with Christ’s crucifixion. The ground is
and history of cider production. still settling, and the church’s tower is
WHERE TO STAY ª Cross the river and take A465 until said to lean even more than the one
HEREFORD a sign to the left for Kilpeck; follow at Pisa. There is also a stone cross here
Somerville House moderate signs and park outside the church. similar to an Irish high cross. Return
This friendly boutique B&B is located in to the valley road and turn right to
a Victorian villa a short walk from the 2 Kilpeck Llanthony Priory by the River Honddu.
station. Serves healthy breakfasts. Herefordshire; HR2 9DN Legend has it that St Peter and St Paul
12 Bodenham Road, HR1 2TS; 01432 The crowning glory of this pretty visited here and that St David, the
273 991; www.somervillehouse.co.uk village is the Church of St Mary and patron saint of Wales, lived here as a
HAY-ON-WYE St David, perhaps the best 12th-century hermit. In the 12th century, the knight
The Swan at Hay moderate Norman Romanesque church in William de Lacy was so impressed with
This former coaching inn dates back to Britain. Look for exquisite Celtic and its spirituality that he founded a church
Georgian times and has 19 comfortable Norse-style carving dating from 1140 on the spot – later the site of Wales’s
rooms and pretty gardens. and the whimsical carved corbels of
Church Street, HR3 5DQ; 01497 821
188; www.swanathay.co.uk animals, wrestlers and dancers below Below Finely sculpted doorway at the Church of
the roofline. An audio tour guide is St Mary and St David, Kilpeck
AROUND HAY-ON-WYE available online (www.kilpeckchurch.
The Agents’ House moderate org.uk). To see the remains of the
Two suites, with a choice of self-cook motte and bailey castle and for good
or pre-ordered breakfast, are available
at this B&B. views, walk up behind the churchyard
Whitney Village Road, Whitney-on- and left over a stile up the hill.
Wye, HR3 6EH; 01497 831 313; www. ª Drop in at the nearby Kilpeck Inn for
whitneyonwyebandb.co.uk a snack before returning to A465. Then
AROUND BRECON take the next right and follow signs to
Felin Fach Griffin moderate Abbey Dore. Park on road by the abbey.
At this lovely terracotta-painted pub off
the A470 northeast of Brecon, boutique
rooms are stylish and comfortable. 3 Abbey Dore
Felin Fach, LD3 0UB; 01874 620 111;
www.eatdrinksleep.ltd.uk Herefordshire; HR2 0AA
Nestling in the fertile “Golden Valley”,
Felin Glais moderate this village is home to the remains of
A restored 17th-century barn offering
rustic chic and weekend evening meals. the Cistercian Dore Abbey, founded in
Aberyscir, LD3 9NP; 01874 623 107; 1147 from wool trade profits. Only the
www.felinglais.co.uk eastern end still stands, but it is an
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

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