Page 135 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

DRIVE 12: Borderlands to Beacons 133

Above left Pastoral landscape in the fertile
first Augustinian priory. Carry on north Ynys Bwlc. This was built around Vale of Ewyas Above right Hereford Cathedral,
over the Black Mountains to Gospel AD 900 by piling stones and earth home to much ancient and modern art
Pass at 542 m (1,778 ft) with dramatic onto brushwood and reeds, and held
views over the Wye Valley. a royal hall and church and was EAT AND DRINK
ª Keep going north from Gospel Pass linked to the shore by a causeway.
to Hay-on-Wye and park in the large car At the Llangorse Crannog Centre HEREFORD
park at the back of the castle on B4348. visitors can learn more about the Café @ All Saints inexpensive
lake. Enjoy lakeside walks to Llangorse This café in a church offers daily
5 Hay-on-Wye village – a centre for pony trekking, specials such as Herefordshire venison
and mushroom casserole.
Powys; HR3 5DB and a starting point for trails in the High Street, HR4 9AA; 01497 370415;
Hay is a characterful Welsh market Brecon Beacons National Park. www.cafeatallsaints.co.uk
town with winding streets, built ª From the lake road, turn left back HAY-ON-WYE
on a hillside beneath the ruins of a into Llangorse and follow the signs to
Norman castle. It is considered by Brecon on the A40 and B4601. Kilvert’s Inn moderate
This very popular pub serves good
some the second-hand book capital bar food, with a mix of traditional
of the world. The largest bookshop 7 Brecon and Mediterranean flavours.
is Richard Booth, named after the Powys; LD3 9DP The Bull Ring, HR3 5AG; 01497 821 042;
original owner, who started to An old market town at the confluence www.kilverts.co.uk
promote Hay as a book centre in of the Honddu and Usk Rivers in the Old Black Lion moderate
1961. The Hay Festival of Literature Brecon Beacons National Park, Brecon A historic inn with a reputation for fine
(www.hayfestival.com) is held at the contains a mix of medieval, Tudor, food, it serves traditional Welsh and
Wye Valley produce such as treacle
end of May and attracts high-profile Jacobean and Georgian architecture cured salmon and organic beef.
poets, writers and politicians. around its central square, The Bulwark, Lion Street, HR3 5AD; 01497 820 841;
Take the B4351 from Broad Street to and 16th-century Church of St Mary’s. www.oldblacklion.co.uk
Clyro, a pretty village on the outskirts Theatr Brycheiniog (01874 611 622; Other options
of town that was once home to the www.brycheiniog.co.uk) offers a rolling For delicious low-fat sheep’s milk ice
Reverend Francis Kilvert, a great programme of drama and comedy. cream, try Shepherds inexpensive
Victorian diarist, who depicted the Visit also the South Wales Borderers (9 High Town, HR3 5AE; 01497 821 898;
www.shepherdsicecream.co.uk). For
rural life of his parish during the 1870s. Museum (www.royalwelsh.org.uk) on wholesome food, with good vegetarian
ª Leave Hay on B4350 (signed Brecon) the Watton (B4601), covering Welsh options, try the Granary inexpensive
and join the A438, then the A479 through regimental history including the (Broad Street, HR3 5DB; 01497 820 790).
Talgarth. Turn right onto the B4560, then defence of Rorke’s Drift (1879), where
right in Llangorse to the lake car park. 139 soldiers faced 5,000 Zulu warriors. Below The popular Kilvert's Inn, on the Bull
Founded as a Benedictine priory in Ring in Hay-on-Wye
6 Llangorse Lake 1093, Brecon Cathedral has some of
Brecon, Powys; LD3 7TR the best monastic buildings in Wales,
The largest natural lake in South Wales, mostly built in the 13th and 14th
Llangorse Lake was created during centuries. The decorated Norman font
the last Ice Age. In the summer, it is a with its birds, grotesques and beasts is
popular watersports centre with boats the oldest object. The Havard Chapel
for hire from the Lakeside Caravan & has many millitary memorials and the
Camping Park (www.llangorselake.co.uk). regimental colours from Rorke’s Drift.
The lake is also good for fishing and There’s also a Heritage Centre and café.
its reedy shallows attract waterfowl ª Leave on the B4601, then take the
which can be viewed from lakeside A470 towards Cardiff. At Libanus turn
hides. At the north edge of the lake is right to the Brecon Beacons National
the tiny man-made islet, or crannog, Park Visitor Centre (signposted).
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

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