Page 152 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

150 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Above left Dark stone and painted house
façades in Machynlleth Above right Welsh 1 Machynlleth Continue on the A487 and take a sharp
hill-farming country on the drive to Brithdir Powys; SY20 8EE left on B4405 to Tal-y-Llyn, a stunningly
This historic market town is where beautiful glacial lake in the shadow of
Owain Glyndŵr first assembled his Cadair Idris. Enjoy a walk or take a boat
Parliament and was crowned as out onto the lake. Its shallow reedy beds
Prince of Wales in 1404. Owain started are stocked with brown trout, and the
his revolt against the English in 1400 lake is visited by sea trout and salmon
during the reign of Henry IV. In 1412, in October. Obtain permits for fishing at
after the revolt foundered, legends the lake from Tynycornel Hotel (01654
say that Owain went into hiding 782282; www.tynycornel.co.uk).
VISITING BEDDGELERT around Machynlleth; he was never ª Leave on the A487, then turn left
seen again. A copy of his seal can on the A470 towards Dolgellau and
Snowdonia National Park
Information Centre be seen in the Old Parliament House follow the signs to Brithdir church. Park
Canolfan Hebog, LL55 4YD; 01766 (Easter–Sep: closed Sun; Oct–Mar: call for on the B4416 at the church entrance.
890 615; www.eryri-npa.gov.uk; opening hours 01654 703 336). This low
open Apr–Oct stone house was actually built in the 2 Brithdir
16th century, but is now a museum Gwynedd; LL40 2SB
about Owain Glyndŵr. Brithdir’s major attraction is the Church
WHERE TO STAY
The Tabernacle, a Neo-Classical of St Mark. Its dark stone exterior
AROUND MACHYNLLETH Wesleyan chapel dating from the late conceals an Italian-style interior (open
Penrhos Arms Hotel moderate 18th century, has been converted to most of the year) with red-ochre walls
Enjoy pleasant rooms with crisp bed a centre for the performing arts. The and a blue-sky ceiling. Designed by
linens in this friendly, cosy country inn, MOMA Wales (open Mon–Sat; moma. Henry Wilson (known for his commis-
11 km (7 miles) northeast on the A470. machynlleth.org.uk) has evolved around sions for department store, Liberty’s)
Cemmaes, SY20 9PR; 01650 511 243;
www.penrhosarms.com it, with seven art galleries displaying and built 1895–98, it is one of the few
the work of Welsh artists from 1900. Art Nouveau churches in Wales. See
AROUND BRITHDIR Head north on the A487 for the the ebony and abalone inlay on the
Ffynnon expensive Centre for Alternative Technology doors and naturalistic carvings on
This award-winning boutique hotel is (open daily, closed late Dec–early Jan; the chestnut choir stall pews – squir-
in Dolgellau, 8 km (5 miles) southwest
of Brithdir. It has six luxurious rooms. www.cat.org.uk) for the eco-house, rels, rabbits, a tortoise and an owl – all
Ffynnon, Love Lane, Dolgellau, organic gardens, cliff railway and created in the Arts and Crafts tradition.
LL40 IRR; 01341 421 774; hands-on activities. Notice, too, the beaten copper panels
www.ffynnontownhouse.com on the pulpit and altar.
HARLECH CASTLE Below Leafy wooded avenue by the Art Nouveau ª Return to the A470 and follow the
Church of St Mark’s, Brithdir signs into Dolgellau. Once there, follow
Cemlyn Tea Shop moderate
There are just two en-suite rooms above
this lovely tea shop. One of them has
views of Harlech Castle and the sea.
High Street, LL46 2YA; 01766 780 425;
www.cemlynrestaurant.co.uk
BEDDGELERT
Sygun Fawr moderate
Lovely old house in pretty gardens,
with friendly atmosphere and lots of
character – try for a mountain view.
Take A498 north and then first right.
Beddgelert, LL55 4NE; 01766 890 258;
www.sygunfawr.co.uk

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