Page 147 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

DRIVE 13: Wonders of West Wales 145

rood screen. Evensong is a delight found their way, in bad weather, into
(Thu–Tue: 6pm). Across a little bridge, a cove nearby. However, the invasion
explore the stone ruins of the Bishop’s was foiled when local women dressed
Palace 7, built between 1280 and in traditional tall hats and red clothes
1350, before returning to were taken for British
the car park, where the grenadiers – a tapestry in the
Tower Gate House has a Town Hall portrays the event.
display of religious stones. St Mary’s Churchyard, in Main
West of town, on the Street, has a memorial stone
B4853, lies Whitesands to the invasion’s heroine,
Bay, where legend says Jemima Nicholas. The West
that St Patrick left Wales to Wales Arts Centre (closed Sun; Above The picturesque harbour in Fishguard’s
take Christianity to Ireland. www. westwalesartscentre.com) Lower Town
It is a stunning sandy surf shows contemporary artists.
beach. Visible just offshore ª Take A487 out of Fishguard, EAT AND DRINK
lies Ramsey Island, Stained-glass window, turn right on B4313 and left
an RSPB reserve with St Davids Cathedral for Cilgwyn – a hilly drive with ST DAVIDS
choughs, guillemots, razor­ stunning views – to Newport. The Refectory at St Davids
bills and even peregrine falcons. Boat Cathedral inexpensive
A daily changing menu is served in the
trips go to the island; also look out for r Newport cathedral’s airy restaurant. Local produce
pods of dolphins and even whales. Pembrokeshire; SA42 0TN is used in dishes such as double cream
ª Take the A487 direct to Fishguard Set on the estuary of the River Nevern, quiche and ostrich burgers.
and park in the town centre car park Newport was once a very busy port, St Davids Cathedral, SA62 6PE; 01437
or in the Lower Town. but has long since silted up. The town 721 760; www.stdavidsrefectory.co.uk
has good access to the Pembrokeshire Cwtch expensive
Pembrokeshire Coast National Trail Coastal Path and is a popular base for Enjoy relaxed dining at this modern
Running along Britain’s only true walks into the Preseli Hills, famous as restaurant with seasonal menus and
local produce. Enjoy potted Solva crab
coastal park, the Pembrokeshire the source of the huge Stonehenge
Coast National Trail (01646 624 800; bluestones. For a closer Neolithic site, and Welsh sirloin of beef.
22 High Street, SA62 6SD; 01437 720
nt.pcnpa.org.uk) is 300 km (186 head east on the A487 and follow 491; www.cwtchrestaurant.co.uk
miles) and covers some spectacular the signs right to Pentre Ifan, a tomb
scenery. The Puffin bus service enables AROUND ST DAVIDS
walkers to follow the path and not dating from c. 3500 BC and built from The Sloop Inn moderate
walk back at the end of the day. a series of upright stones with a huge At Croes­goch, turn left off the A487 to
5­m (17­ft) capstone. Return towards Fishguard, to this perfect 18th­century
the A487 but cross over to the pretty harbourside pub serving a wide range
e Fishguard Norman village of Nevern. The church of bar meals.
Pembrokeshire; SA65 9HA is famous for several items: it has a Porthgain SA62 5BN; 01348 831 449;
This is a town of three parts: Lower 4­m (13­ft) high, 10th­century, two­ www.sloop.co.uk
Town, with its fishing harbour; piece Celtic Cross; a smaller Vitalian NEWPORT
Upper Town, with its shops; and to the Stone, possibly from AD 500; an The Canteen inexpensive
north, Goodwick, with a ferry terminal. avenue of “bleeding yews” which This family restaurant serves good
Park in the centre to explore the town exude a bright red sap and, inside, the pizzas and burgers, local beers and take­
aways. Light snacks and homemade
where the “Last Invasion of Britain” Maglocunus Stone, inscribed with a cakes are available in the daytime.
(1797) took place. The tale goes that 5th­century example of Ogham script Market Street, SA42 0ph; 01239 820
1,400 French troops in four warships (an ancient southern Irish alphabet). 131; www.thecanteennewport.com
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Follow this drive’s instructions and then Follow this drive’s instructions in reverse,
Castles, gardens, churches and retrace the journey. taking the A477 to Carew Castle.
beaches – this drive has it all.
Camarthen Bay Coastal Fun
Castles and Gardens Visit the beach at Tenby 8, skirt the From Newport r, head down to pretty
From Llandovery 1, see its castle and bay to sandy Pendine 7 and its Fishguard e to learn about the last
Myddfai – famed for its physicians, Museum of Speed. Head to Laugharne invasion of Britain. Then on to St Davids
then pack a picnic and head for 6 for bay views from both the castle w to visit the cathedral and enjoy a
Llandeilo 2 and the colourful gar­ and Dylan Thomas’ home. Carry on to clifftop walk. Have a bracing swim or
dens at Aberglasney. Climb the hill the stout bastion of Kidwelly Castle surf at Whitesands Bay and finish off
to stunning Carreg Cennen Castle 3. 5. If there’s time, stop off at Carew with supper in Solva q.
Finally, visit the spectacular National Castle 9, before returning to Tenby
Botanic Garden of Wales 4. for some of its lively nightlife. Follow the A487 there and back.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

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