Page 184 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

182 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

4 Jervaulx Abbey Queen of Scots dropped her shawl
North Yorks; HG4 4PH in her flight from Bolton Castle, where
Founded in 1156, this once-great she was imprisoned in 1538–9. Climb
Cistercian monastery is today in the escarpment for a short walk and
private hands, but allows public great views across Wensleydale. Power
access. Declared forfeit to the Crown walkers can try the 11-km (7-mile) walk
under Henry VIII (see p192), its roof to Bolton Castle (and get the bus back).
was stripped of lead and the church For instructions, visit www.dalesbus.org.
destroyed by gunpowder. What ª From Leyburn take the A684
survived such vandalism is a place west through the Yorkshire Dales
of utter peace and charm, in a beau- National Park to Hawes. Aysgarth
tiful wildflower meadow amid the Falls, on the way, is a good place
Above Jockeys taking the young racehorses Yorkshire Dales. Tour the remains of to stop for a picnic.
out for exercise, Middleham this enchanting building including the
dormitory, kitchen, parlour, infirmary
and cloister. The home-made cakes
in the tearooms are excellent, too.
ª Continue on A6108 to Middleham;
park for free on the cobbled square.

WHERE TO STAY 5 Middleham
North Yorks; DL8 4QG
MIDDLEHAM This historic town boasts an impressive
Lindmar House moderate castle, two market places and a
One of a number of decent options racehorse training stables. Visitors
clustered around the town’s square. can watch the jockeys riding out in
This elegantly furnished Georgian
house offers three stylish rooms. the morning on the moors beyond
Market Place, DL8 4NR; 01969 623 616; Middleham Castle (Oct–Mar: closed
www.lindmarhouse.uk Sat & Sun). This castle was from 1461
home to Richard, Duke of York, who Above Aysgarth Falls in the picturesque Lower
The Priory moderate
Overlooking Middleham Castle, this would ascend to the throne for a Wensleydale valley
magnificent building dates back to brief reign as Richard III in 1483.
the 17th century. The spacious rooms Chambers and lodgings were added Wensleydale
feature freestanding copper baths over time to the 12th-century keep
and Zoffany wallpaper. The hosts This wonderful cheese is handmade
are friendly and welcome dogs too. to create a more luxurious palace. using milk from cows grazing on the
West End, DL8 4QG; 01969 623 279; Take the A6108 northwest across sweet pastures in Upper Wensleydale.
www.priorymiddleham.co.uk a 19th-century bridge over the River White Wensleydale is a young cheese,
with a clean, mild, slightly sweet
The White Swan moderate Ure to pretty Leyburn, filled with flavour. It can be bought, along with
Overlooking Market Square, the White craft shops, galleries, a chocolatier mature and oak-smoked and ewes’
Swan subsumed the old post office and a tea pottery. It’s also an excel- milk versions at the Wensleydale
and underwent refurbishment, adding lent place for walking. At the top of Creamery shop and visitors’ centre on
a smart brasserie. the left on Gayle Lane on the way out
Market Place, DL8 4PE; 01969 622 093; the market place, follow signs for the of Hawes (www.wensleydale.co.uk).
www.whiteswanhotel.co.uk Leyburn Shawl, supposedly where Mary
HAWES Below The haunting ruins of Jervaulx Abbey in beautiful bucolic surroundings
The Stone House moderate
This charming Edwardian country
house, north of Hawes, comes with
a glorious setting, chic rooms, log
fires, tennis court and a sunny garden.
Sedbusk, DL8 3PT; 01969 667 571;
www.stonehousehotel.co.uk
BOLTON ABBEY
Devonshire Arms expensive
This country house has been in
the Devonshire family since 1753.
Furnished with antiques, it is gloriously
situated and offers every comfort,
including a spa, sauna, tennis courts,
and a range of good restaurants.
Bolton Abbey, BD23 6AJ; 01756 718
111; www.thedevonshirearms.co.uk
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

180-183_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 182 20/07/18 7:24 PM