Page 185 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

DRIVE 17: Yorkshire Dales and Abbeys 183

Above (all) Bolton Abbey, extensively
6 Hawes (open daily; www.boltonabbey.com), damaged during the Dissolution of the
North Yorks; DL8 3NT located on the banks of the River Monasteries in 1539
Pretty, bustling Hawes, at the head of Wharfe, was founded by Augustinian
Wensleydale, valley of the waterfalls, is monks in 1154. Although the priory
Yorkshire’s highest market town. There buildings were partially destroyed
are some fine walks to be enjoyed during the Dissolution of the
from here; visit www.wensleydale.org Monasteries, the Parish Church of
for directions. Pick up picnic supplies St Mary and St Cuthbert survived,
from the Wensleydale Creamery (open and continues to this day. The ruins
daily) and see how they make the are best explored in the company
famous cheese. Tuesday is market of a volunteer guide or by down-
day and stalls of produce line the loading a detailed map from EAT AND DRINK
streets. Dales Countryside the website and planning
Museum (open daily) is also a visit. AROUND MIDDLEHAM
well worth a visit, with Bolton Abbey offers George and Dragon moderate
displays about the a very different expe- This 17th-century coaching inn
history, people and rience from dreamy on the A684 between Hawes and
landscape of the region, Jervaulx; there is so Leyburn, serves soup, sandwiches
housed in the converted much to do in its and full meals, using local ingredients
such as a trio of Masham sausages
railway station. Wensleydale Creamery 12,140 hectares and Black Sheep beer-battered fish.
ª Head south on Gayle sign, Hawes (30,000 acres), including Aysgarth, DL8 3AD; 01969 663 358;
Lane to Buckden. Turn right over 130 km (80 miles) www.georgeanddragonaysgarth.co.uk
on the B6160 all the way to Bolton of paths for riverside or moorland The Sandpiper Inn moderate
Abbey. Use on-site car parks. walks, a steam train for a nostalgic Well-kept ales and inventive cooking
trip to Embsay, stocked rivers for fly from a changing menu are on offer
7 Bolton Abbey fishing (with lessons available, if at this traditional inn. Try some home-
made soup, a Wensleydale sandwich,
Skipton; N Yorks; BD23 6EX needed), woods and parkland for fish and chips or pressed Dales lamb.
Now owned by the Duke and picnics, a children’s farm and a range Market Place, Leyburn, DL8 5AT; 01969
Duchess of Devonshire, Bolton Abbey of visitors’ shops and places to eat. 622 206; www.sandpiperinn.co.uk
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Gardens and History Royalty in the Dales
Choose from family fun around Staying at Ripon 3, visit its cathedral Visit the castle at Middleham 5,
Harrogate, touring the beautiful before heading off to Fountains former haunt of Richard III; pop across
gardens of Fountains Abbey and Ripley Abbey and Water Gardens. After to quaint Leyburn and walk in the
Castle, or a day out in the Dales. walking around the best-preserved steps of Mary Queen of Scots up to
Cistercian abbey in England, go on Leyburn Shawl to see the great views.
Town and Country
Explore Harrogate 1, taking in its to historic Ripley 2 for a picnic in Enjoy the drive to Hawes 6 to stock
pretty flower gardens, fine architecture the castle’s deer parks, gardens or the up on cheese for a picnic on the way
and spa facilities. Head to Bolton estate village, or just make use of through the Dales to the graceful
Abbey 7 to ride a steam train, see the tearooms. Return to Ripon for ruins of Jervaulx Abbey 4, destroyed
some farm animals, go fishing and just dinner and to hear the Hornblower. by King Henry VIII.
enjoy the glorious countryside. Take the B6265 to Fountains Abbey; Follow the instructions in the drive to
From Harrogate take the scenic A59, head down Fountains Lane to B6165 to Hawes and on to the B6160, but turn
then B6160 to Bolton Abbey. Ripley. Return via the A61 and A6108. off left at Kettlewell back to Middleham.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

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