Page 200 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

198 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

1 Carlisle
Cumbria; CA3 8JA
Streets of handsome terraces surround the ancient centre of this
border city, which is still intact, atmospheric and accessible behind
the bland store fronts of the pedestrian precinct. Carlisle is characterful,
with a strong sense of civic pride and the small but beautiful cathedral
at its spiritual heart. Visitors won’t go hungry in town, since a range of
tasty options awaits here and in the countryside beyond.

A two-hour walking tour Clustered around the cathedral are
Start at the Railway Station 1 with its some fine 17th-century buildings, such
imposing Tudor-Gothic-style façade. It as the Old Registry, dated 1699, The
was designed in 1847 by Sir William Deanery with its defensive pele tower,
Tite, designer of the Bank of England and the Fratry, a 13th-century
and London’s Royal Exchange. From monastic dining room. Turn left and
Above Ancient wooden door at Carlisle’s the station it is impossible to miss the left into Abbey Street and go through
12th–14th-century castle Citadel 2 (closed to the public); its oval the gates to Tullie House Museum
East and West Towers were begun in & Gallery 5 (open daily), housed in a
1810–11 to a design by Thomas Jacobean mansion dating from 1689.
Telford and contained courts and a Its collec tions are devoted to local
prison. The West Tower has oak- social history, archaeology, wildlife,
panelled court rooms, a grand jury geology and fine arts. Leave by the
room and cells. Walk up English Street rear exit to find the Millennium
towards the city’s shopping centre. Walkway 6, a bright subway display-
VISITING CARLISLE
At the centre of the pedestrian ized ing artifacts celebrating the city. These
Parking area is Carlisle Cross, dated 1682. include the 16th-century cursing
Exit M6 at junction 43, then drive The tourist office is here, housed in the stone, recording the scathing words
down A69 Rotary Way to Warwick Old Town Hall 3 which was founded of the Bishop of Glasgow aimed at the
Road until you see Lowther Street. in 1122. Outside stands a “Victorian” marauding reivers of the borders (see
Turn right to The Lanes car park on the
left, or right to the Lowther Street car pillar box marking the fact that p209). Enter the Castle 7 by its 14th-
park. Other car parks at the Castle and England’s first such box was erected century gatehouse and portcullis onto
West Walls are clearly signposted. in Carlisle in 1853. Turn right out of the 12th-century keep that once held
Tourist Information the tourist office and enter grey and Mary Queen of Scots. Walk around the
Old Town Hall, Market Square, CA3 8JE; red stone Carlisle Cathedral 4. Its outside of the castle and enter Bitts
01228 598 596; www.visitcumbria.com glorious interior is lit by stained-glass Park at the junc tion with Castle Way.
windows, some dating from the 14th Cross the park to the River Eden and
century. Beneath a barrel-vaulted, climb the steps of Eden Bridge. To the
WHERE TO STAY starred ceiling are paintings, a carved right stands the high-rise Civic Centre;
oak Antwerp triptych dating back to to the left, hidden to all but historical
CARLISLE 1510 and 15th-century choir stalls. imagination, the course of Hadrian’s
Cornerways Guest House moderate
A conveniently situated and good value Below The remains of what was an earlier, larger version of Carlisle Cathedral
B&B. Not all rooms are en suite. Serves
full English and Continental breakfasts.
107 Warwick Road, CA1 1EA; 01228 521
733; www.cornerwaysbandb.co.uk
Mount Farm inexpensive
Spacious rooms in a barn or stable
conversion on a working farm, with
great views and delicious breakfasts.
Blackford, CA6 4ER; 5 km (3 miles)
north off A7; 01228 674 671;
www.mount-farm.co.uk
AROUND CARLISLE
Willowbeck Lodge moderate
A purpose-built Scandinavian-style lodge
offering breakfast with Craster kippers,
free-range eggs and Scotch pancakes.
Lambley Bank, Scotby, CA4 8BX; 5 km
(3 miles) east on A69; 01228 513 607;
www.willowbeck-lodge.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

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