Page 202 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

200 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Above left Traditional water launch, Derwent
Water, near Keswick Above right Panoramic 4 Buttermere three daily 90-minute guided tours
view over Keswick, Derwent Water and the Fells Cumbria; CA13 9UZ within the 18 km (11 miles) of tunnels.
This hamlet is scenically situated See the vast caverns being worked,
beneath looming lakeland pikes and and learn about the extraction and
crags between tranquil Buttermere processing of slate (booking essential).
Lake and larger Crummock Water. Try ª Carry along B5289 to Bowder Stone.
the eminently walkable footpath – Note the double stone bridge into
allow 2–3 hours – around Buttermere Grange village, but don’t cross in high
VISITING KESWICK (meaning “lake of the dairy pastures”); summer, when the village is packed.
Parking usually there’s a welcome ice-cream
There is pay parking by the theatre on van at the end of the walk. It is also a The Lady of the Lake
the lake and at various well-signed short walk from the village to the Mary Robinson, the pretty daughter
sites around the town. spectacular Scale Force, the highest of the landlord at the Fish Hotel,
Boating waterfall in the Lake District, with a was widely known as the “Beauty
At Derwent Water Marina, west off the single drop of 52 m (170 ft). of Buttermere”. In 1802 she married
A66, hire kayaks, rowing boats, sail boats the Hon. Alexander Augustus Hope,
and windsurfers, or have some lessons. ª Continue along the B5289 over Lieutenant-Colonel of the 14th
(Portinscale, CA12 5RF; 01768772 912; Honister Pass to the mine. Regiment of Foot. However, he was
www.derwentwatermarina.co.uk) really John Hatfield, an imposter and
5 Honister Pass bigamist and was hanged in 1803 in
WHERE TO STAY Cumbria; CA12 5XN Carlisle for forgery. Her story was the
The drive across Honister Pass is simply inspiration for the novel by author
AROUND BUTTERMERE glorious, passing skipping streams and and broadcaster Lord Melvyn Bragg,
The Maid of Buttermere.
New House Farm moderate rushing torrents, tough grass slopes
This top-notch 17th-century and rock-studded scree patches, and
guesthouse located on B5289 to everywhere shaggy Herdwick sheep. 6 Bowder Stone
Buttermere offers impressive rooms.
Lorton, Cockermouth, CA13 9UU; 07841 On the B5289, Honister Slate Mine Grange, Cumbria
159 818; www.newhouse-farm.com (open daily; 017687 77230; www.honister. Weighing 2,000 tons and standing
com) is Britain’s last working slate some 9 m (30 ft) high, this stone, you
AROUND HONISTER PASS mine and produces traditional might suppose, had simply broken
Langstrath Country Inn moderate Westmoreland green slate. It offers loose from the rock face – but it is not
There are eight very nice en-suite rooms
in this relaxed, attractive, walker-friendly
inn just off the B5289 after Honister Below A visitor from Scotland, the colossal Bowder Stone, Grange
Slate Mine. It has bags of personality
and serves great food – try the local
lamb, Cumbrian cheeses and ales.
Stonethwaite, Borrowdale, CA12 5XG;
017687 77239; www.thelangstrath.
com; closed Dec and Jan
AROUND KESWICK
Riverside Escape moderate
Located close to the town centre,
this immaculate guesthouse has
three stylish rooms and a self-service
apartment, plus views of the
mountains and the river. Breakfast
in bed is part of the friendly service.
On-site parking is available.
Crosthwaite Road, Keswick CA12 5PG;
01768 606 739; www.riversideescape.
co.uk
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

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