Page 207 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

DRIVE 19: The Poetry of the Lakes 205

Far left Brantwood, John Ruskin’s house on
the shores of Lake Coniston Left Kayaking
lesson on Coniston Water

SHOPPING IN CONISTON
Buy some delectable fudge – hand-
made from local dairy ingredients –
from the Coniston Fudge Co
(6 Yewdale Road; 01539 441 937;
www.conistonfudge.com). Flavours
include Coniston Cookie Crunch and
Ginger. Best of all, visitors can taste
before buying.
t Brantwood y Coniston
Cumbria; LA21 8AD; Cumbria; LA21 8AJ
John Ruskin (1819–1900), artist, writer, Situated at the head of Coniston Water EAT AND DRINK
poet, critic and social reformer, lived at – third-largest of the central Cumbrian
Brantwood (open daily; mid-Nov–mid-Mar: lakes – this village was once a centre CONISTON
closed Mon–Tue; 015394 41396; www. for the local copper-mining industry, Black Bull Inn moderate
This old coaching inn has played host
brantwood.org.uk) from 1871. The which boomed in the 18th and to poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge, artist
house is so imbued with his 19th centuries. It is overlooked J M W Turner and the late Donald
personality that it by the 802 m Campbell, who died on Coniston in
feels as though (2,631 ft) fell, an attempt to set a new water speed
he has just the Old Man of record. On offer are sandwiches, baked
potatoes and hearty cooked meals
gone out for a Coniston, and is such as Cumberland sausage, shoulder
stroll. His own watercolours also close to Tarn Hows. The of lamb, and fish of the day. Wash it all
and drawings are hung with graceful Victorian steam down with ales such as its own
those of other prominent Railway insignia, yacht the Gondola (Apr–Oct; Bluebird. It also has a few rooms.
painters. Views across Haverthwaite Station www.nationaltrust.org.uk) – so 1 Yewdale Road, LA21 8DU; 015394
41335; www.blackbullconiston.co.uk
Coniston, especially from the called because of its high
turret, are sublime and there are prow – glides across the water from Steam Bistro moderate
wonderful gardens. The best time to Coniston Pier to Brantwood jetty. The Offering two or three set course
menus, using ingredients from
visit is in late May, when the azaleas 45-minute round trip gives passengers local suppliers, this restaurant serves
are at their showiest. Aged 81, Ruskin the chance to appreciate the beauty imaginative Japanese dumplings,
died of influenza and is buried at of the lake amid the surrounding beef and pork ragu or Cajun pulled
St Andrew’s Church, Coniston. Coniston Fells. Or hire a kayak, canoe pork. Bring your own wine.
ª Head north, turning left around the or rowing boat from Coniston Boating Esk Villa, Tilberthwaite Avenue,
LA21 8ED; 01539 441 928; www.
lake to join the B5285 to Coniston and Centre (015394 41366), also located near steambistro.co.uk; closed Mon
pay parking at Coniston Pier. the pier, to explore the lake. and Tue
DAY TRIP OPTIONS on B5292 and return to Carlisle up the Wander o’er Vales and Hills
Carlisle, Keswick and Ambleside are all east side of Bassenthwaite Lake. Follow the Wordsworth trail from
good bases for exploring the sublime Grasmere 8, for the church and
countryside and following in the Lakeland Stone cottage with links to the poet, then
footsteps of the Lakeland poets. Based at Keswick 7, enjoy the lake continue to Rydal Mount 9 and the
location and Castlerigg Stone Circle,
War and Peace then set off to climb the Bowder nearby lake – two of his favourite
Take a tour around Carlisle 1, a border Stone 6. Head for Honister Pass 5 places. Ambleside 0, where the
city often attacked by raiders from and Honister Slate Mine, the last poet worked – is a good place for
the north. See the citadel, castle and working slate mine in the UK. Drive lunch. Next go on to Hawkshead q,
cathedral. Then set out on the glorious where Wordsworth was schooled, to
drive southwest to Cockermouth 2, on to Buttermere 4; enjoy a picnic enjoy a walk or go fishing, before
having a look at the castle and an ice and walk around the lake admiring pushing on past Hill Top w, across
cream at the Old Stackyard Tearooms. the pikes and crags. Head north to the lake on the ferry and returning
Time permitting, head to Whinlatter Lorton and through Whinlatter Forest up Windermere’s eastern shore.
Forest Park 3 for a walk or a bike ride Park 3 to return to Keswick. Follow the drive’s instructions to Hill Top
in the quiet woodland countryside. Follow the drive’s instructions in reverse and across Lake Windermere. Turn left
Follow driving instructions to Whinlatter from Keswick to Whinlatter Forest Park. on A592 through Bowness to return to
Forest Park. Continue towards Keswick Then head east back to Keswick. Ambleside or Grasmere.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

198-205_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 205 20/07/18 7:45 PM