Page 213 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

DRIVE 20: Wild Northumbria 211

Above left Bistro restaurant Lilburns in the
5 Dunstanburgh Castle ª Take the B1342, then right on A1 and centre of Alnwick Above right The imposing
Craster, Alnwick; NE66 3TT right for Lindisfarne. Park on the island. Bamburgh Castle, the Armstrong family home
From the fishing village of Craster the
massive, brooding ruins of this grand 7 Lindisfarne Island
edifice are visible rising out of the Northumberland; TD15 2SH SHOPPING
sands atop a cliff. Wear strong, water- Also known as Holy Island, this tidal
proof shoes to walk along the beach islet is inaccessible by car at high Craster Kippers
At Craster, the Robsons produce their
and be prepared for a scramble up tide (see opposite), adding to the thrill famous oak-smoked kippers, using the
to Dunstanburgh Castle. It was begun of a visit to the cradle of English best herrings and traditional methods.
in the 14th century by the Earl of Christianity. Lindisfarne Monastery L Robson & Sons Ltd, NE66 3TR; 01665
Lancaster, and enough survives of its was founded in AD 635, and was a 576 223; www.kipper.co.uk
walls, watchtower and gatehouse to powerful centre of Christianity. EAT AND DRINK
fire the imagination and transport the Prepare to be captivated by this
visitor back some 700 years. place of pilgrimage. Tour the ruined ALNWICK
ª Return inland, turning right on the priory and clamber up to the castle Craster Seafood Restaurant moderate
B1339 and then B1340 to Bamburgh. and walled garden, walk around the Open for light lunches and à la carte
headland and harbour, and sample evening meals, this harbourside restau-
6 Bamburgh Castle the famous crab sandwiches and rant serves up both meat and fish
dishes, including their famous kippers.
Bamburgh, Northumberland; NE69 7DF Lindisfarne Mead. A nature reserve, Haven Hill, Craster, NE66 3TR; 01665
On a stunning basalt crag, Bamburgh the island is a great place to see 576 230; www.crasterseafood.co.uk;
Castle (open mid-Feb–Oct daily, Nov–mid- migrating birds and grey seals. closed Nov–Feb
Feb weekends only; www.bamburghcastle. Lilburns moderate
com) looks across the sea to the Farne Just off Bondgate, this bistro has a lovely
Islands. Originally built by the Normans, family atmosphere and serves good food.
it was all but destroyed in the 15th- 7 Paikes Street, NE66 1HX; 01665 603
century Wars of the Roses by Edward 444; www.lilburns.co.uk
IV. Restoration began in the mid-18th AROUND DUNSTANBURGH
century, and was later carried forward Dunstanburgh Castle Hotel moderate
by Sir William Armstrong (see p209) in This hotel restaurant, 3 km (2 miles)
1894. It is still the Armstrong family north of Craster on the B1339, serves
home, but visitors can tour 16 rooms homemade soups, local meat and
crab and plenty for vegetarians.
of armour, antiques and paintings, Embleton, NE66 3UN; 01665 576 111;
including the imposing King’s Hall and www.dunstanburghcastlehotel.co.uk
Cross Hall, and the torture chamber,
armoury, bake house and scullery. Left The crumbling ruins of Dunstanburgh
There is also a small museum. Castle, north of Craster village
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Castles and Coast Castles and Christianity
Kielder Water and Alnwick make ideal Staying at Alnwick 4, see the Castle Walk to see the ruins of Dunstanburgh
bases for exploring the area. and Garden, then head to Amble 3 Castle 5, then drive to the impressive
for a walk to Warkworth Castle and a Bamburgh Castle 6. Carry on to
Family Day by the Lake beach picnic. Return to Alnwick via the Lindisfarne Island 7 for a walk around
Kielder Water 1 is the perfect place for ingenious Cragside Estate 2, with its the island, castle and priory. Vary the
a day trip or to stay in a lodge, learn to grand interiors and outside adventures. order of these, depending on the tide.
fish, sail or horse ride; go cycling or
walking by the lake and then soak tired Reverse the driving instructions to get to Follow the instructions for the drive.
muscles in the spa. Amble and Cragside; return on B6341. Return via the A1.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

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