Page 218 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

216 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

1 Edinburgh
Lothian; EH1
With its brooding castle, dramatic crags and rich history, Edinburgh is
Scotland’s most romantic city as well as its capital. Visitors have long
been fascinated by the medieval streets of the Old Town and charmed
by the Georgian squares of the New Town, before being entertained in
the city’s many bars and restaurants. It’s no wonder that it has inspired
generations of writers, from Robert Louis Stevenson to J K Rowling.
A three-hour walking tour bustling with pubs and shops, but
Start from Waverley Station car park. once the haunt of 19th-century
Walk uphill on New Street, turn right body-snatchers Burke and Hare. They
onto Market Street, and then left at lured their victims here and sold the
a roundabout up Cockburn Street. bodies to a local surgeon. Part way
Traverse the medieval Old Town, with down the Grassmarket, turn right up
Above Princes Street, Edinburgh with the its cobbled streets, wynds (alleys) Castle Wynd South. Go up the steep
Balmoral Hotel and Scott’s Monument on the left and high buildings. At the top, turn steps, cross the road at the top and up
left and walk down the High Street – more steps to Castle Hill. Edinburgh’s
VISITING EDINBURGH
the Royal Mile. Pass John Knox House great castle 7 (open daily) is on the left.
Parking 1 (open Mon–Sat; Jul–Aug also Sun pm), Set on an extinct volcano, it dates back
There are car parks by Waverley Station, a distinctive 16th-century building said to the 12th century, but has been a
at Castle Terrace and at Greenside Place. to have been home to the religious fortress since AD 600. Its treasures
Tourist Information reformer. Next is Canongate Kirk 2 include the Honours of Scotland (the
3 Princes Street, EH2 2QP; 0131 473 (open daily): the economist Adam Smith Scottish Crown Jewels) and Mons Meg,
3666; www.edinburgh.org
and David Rizzio, the secretary to Mary one of the world’s oldest cannons.
WHERE TO STAY Queen of Scots killed by her husband, Walk down Castle Hill, stopping to
Lord Darnley, are both buried here. At sample a few “drams” at the Scotch
EDINBURGH the end of the Royal Mile is the new Whisky Experience 8 (open daily)
The Bonham moderate–expensive Scottish Parliament, opposite the on the right. At Bank Street, turn left
This chic town house in a leafy corner of Queen’s official residence in Scotland, and go down The Mound, then walk
the West End has boutique rooms. the Palace of Holyroodhouse 3 down Playfair Steps. The National
35 Drumsheugh Gardens, EH3 7RN; 0131
274 7400; www.royalorchidhotels.com (open daily, except royal visits). Gallery of Scotland 9 (open daily)
Head back up the Royal Mile, past is on the left, and good views of
NORTH BERWICK Cockburn Street to St Giles’ Cathedral the monument to Sir Walter Scott,
The Glebe House moderate 4 (open daily), which was founded in to the right. Cross Princes Street,
This lovely mansion has four charming the 12th-century. It was from here that then walk up Hanover Street, to
rooms and picturesque views. Knox led the Scottish Reformation. the grand avenues and buildings
Law Road, EH39 4PL; 01620 892 608;
www.glebehouse-nb.co.uk Nearby is Mary King’s Close 5 (open of the 18th-century Georgian New
daily), a warren of ancient, supposedly Town, built so the wealthy could
AROUND NORTH BERWICK haunted streets beneath the city. escape the squalor of the Old Town.
The Castle Inn inexpensive Beyond the cathedral, turn left onto Continue to George Street, the city’s
There are five beautiful bedrooms George IV Bridge, then right down smartest shopping area. Turn left to
at this coaching inn on the A198
to Edinburgh. charming Victoria Street, lined with Charlotte Square, designed by Robert
Manse Road, Dirleton, EH39 5EP; 01620 specialist shops. At the bottom, bear Adam, and bear right to the north
850 221; www.castleinndirleton.com right into the Grassmarket 6 – now side of the square to The Georgian
G E O R G E S T R E E T Scott
The Georgian HANOVER ST NEW TOWN
House ROSE STREET Monument CALTON R OAD
Parliament Holyrood-
Kirk
P R I N C E S S T R E E T THE MOUN D Gallery of COCKBURN ST HIGH STREET ROYAL MILE CANONGATE
CHARLOTTE WAVERLEY BRIDGE STREET Canongate CANONGATE New Scottish Palace of
Waverley
SQUARE CASTLE ST National Station NORTH BRIDGE John Knox NEW STREET Building house
FREDERICK ST
Princes Street Gardens
House
Scotland
MARKET
St Giles’
LAWNMARKET
Scotch Whisky BANK ST Mary King ‘s Close H O L Y R O O D R O A D
Experience Cathedral Q U E E N ’ S D R I V E
CASTLE HILL OLD TOWN SOUTH BRIDGE C O W G A T E
JO H N STO N TE R RACE VIC TORIA ST GEORGE IV BRIDGE Holyrood
Castle
GRASS 0 metres 500 Park
CASTLE TERRACE
MARKET Grassmarket
L O T H I A N R O A D
0 yards 500
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150
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